15 reasons not to choose Hardy board ?

[thompsonbrown]

Having read quite a lot of posts lately on people using hardy and thinking its great, I cannot get my head around it.
Apart from a wood burning stove & surround i fitted years ago, I am struggling to come up with reasons to ever use it again. Being a big Marmox fan am I just being bios.

Here is a list of things where Marmox is superior

Marmox is Waterproof,
Marmox can be used on concreate floors,
Marmox can hold double the tile weight in showers
Marmox can be dot and dab onto uneven walls,
Marmox has better insulation properties,
Marmox is cheaper,
Marmox is easier to cut,
Marmox is lighter,
Marmox Can be curved,
Marmox has better sound reduction on floors & walls
Marmox does not require a vapour shield when used on bathroom walls
Marmox has better flexural strength,
Marmox Has better temp variations,
Marmox can be used outside,
Marmox sounds better than James Hardy,

So unless I have a kitchen splashback with £100kg m2 tiles, I think I will give Hardy a Miss.

Vid on Hardy board when it gets wet http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_hlRga2z6Uk

 

[Chalker]

With you on this one matey.
flexural? Is that a real word? When going over a ply substrate I use adhesive and fixings, what about you?

 

[thompsonbrown]

With you on this one matey.
flexural? Is that a real word? When going over a ply substrate I use adhesive and fixings, what about you?

Sort of got carried away at the end a bit. But Flexural is a word in the dictonary is says Flexural :known as modulus of rupture, bend strength, or fracture strength, a mechanical parameter ofset for brittle material, EG. Hardy

 

[Ajax123]

Really not sure about some of these claims but as you are clearly biased I will not argue...

 

[Chalker]

Sort of got carried away at the end a bit. But Flexural is a word in the dictonary is says Flexural :known as modulus of rupture, bend strength, or fracture strength, a mechanical parameter ofset for brittle material, EG. Hardy

You know some sh4t mate.

 

[thompsonbrown]

Really not sure about some of these claims but as you are clearly biased I will not argue...

Any in paticular matey.

 

[White Room]

The weight is one issue, Hardie claim the product can support 100kg....

 

[Ajax123]

Flexural strength is another... Marmox says it has a flexural of 2.05mpa whereas hardi has a flexural of 2100psi which converts to 3.04 mpa

 

[thompsonbrown]

The weight is one issue, Hardie claim the product can support 100kg....

I thought that might catch some one didnt thing it would be you Whitebeam.
Your right hardy can take upto 100kgm2 However when using hardy in a shower the board has to be fully tanked. As most tanking kits have a 32kg m2 weight limit, this has to be the max weight a hardy board tanked with bal wp1 for example, could take and with Marmox comming in at around 62kg m2 it just about is double. Infact: Reason No 16 Hardy is only as good as plasterboard in wetrooms.:lol:

 

[thompsonbrown]

Flexural strength is another... Marmox says it has a flexural of 2.05mpa whereas hardi has a flexural of 2100psi which converts to 3.04 mpa

That 1 I will have to give you
when reading that I sort of got mixed up with flexibility. OK change that fact for Hardy can not be glued down to a wooden floor because of its rigidity.

 

[White Room]

I thought that might catch some one didnt thing it would be you Whitebeam.
Your right hardy can take upto 100kgm2 However when using hardy in a shower the board has to be fully tanked. As most tanking kits have a 32kg m2 weight limit, this has to be the max weight a hardy board tanked with bal wp1 for example, could take and with Marmox comming in at around 62kg m2 it just about is double. Infact: Reason No 16 Hardy is only as good as plasterboard in wetrooms.:lol:

Thank you for the kind wordsrrr:

 

[Dougs Third Go]

Thank you for the kind wordsrrr:

I thought that too Mark,,,cheeky bugger ha ha!

 

[widler]

I like hardi used it for a few years now , good stuff.

 

[widler]

I thought you could use hardy on wood floors? i tbought you could use hardy on concrete floors?
I thought you could use hardy dot and dabbing ( with addy ) ?

Well FFS can you and if not why
Ps oh and in the video hardi didn't get wet ,it got soaked,looked like it had been in submerged in water for months and months,that one was down to obvious fixer error.
(Although there's been a piece of hardi in water in my local TP for the last few years and looks brand new,could the video be inferior stuff ?)
I'm not saying it's better than marmax or whatever just don't think it's a load of crap

 

[prceramics]

i would change if i had a local stockist hardy is good stuff but really bad for your health and awkward to cut

 

[johnryan]

I thought that might catch some one didnt thing it would be you Whitebeam.
Your right hardy can take upto 100kgm2 However when using hardy in a shower the board has to be fully tanked. As most tanking kits have a 32kg m2 weight limit, this has to be the max weight a hardy board tanked with bal wp1 for example, could take and with Marmox comming in at around 62kg m2 it just about is double. Infact: Reason No 16 Hardy is only as good as plasterboard in wetrooms.:lol:

that's not strictly correct. you can use mapeigum tanking on hardie and mapei say that it will hold whatever the original substrate will hold. i've spoken to their tech dept several times about this and they assured me it ok to do this. aslo if you call the tech dept at hardie they say you can use it in shower enclosures with their tape. hardie are also ok with using the mapeigum as well. this means that 20mm stone can be set safely even when it goes up to 70 or 80 kg per m2. had to find this out recently as doing a job with a very heavy marble, and they asked me how to prep the room for me. however, given the choice i'd take marmox/ wedi over hardie any day of the week.

 

[One Day]

Just use Kerdiboard and all will be sweet........!

 

[The Legend; Phil Hobson RIP]

That 1 I will have to give you
when reading that I sort of got mixed up with flexibility. OK change that fact for Hardy can not be glued down to a wooden floor because of its rigidity.

I glue and screw Hardie on all my timber floors..........

- - - Updated - - -

That 1 I will have to give you
when reading that I sort of got mixed up with flexibility. OK change that fact for Hardy can not be glued down to a wooden floor because of its rigidity.

I glue and screw Hardie on all my timber floors..........

 

[thompsonbrown]

I glue and screw Hardie on all my timber floors..........

- - - Updated - - -



I glue and screw Hardie on all my timber floors..........

Taken from james hardy website

[FONT=&quot]Can I use liquid nails or glue with HardieBacker board?[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]No. Where HardieBacker board is being installed over a code-complying subfloor for the attachment of tile, the board is installed over a 3/32''-1/4'' thick bed of bonding mortar and then nailed down. ''Liquid Nails'' is not a bonding mortar. It is a structural adhesive generally used to bond the subfloor to the floor joists just prior to nailing. It creates a very solid joint between the surface of the floor joist and the subfloor and aids in reducing floor squeak. The properties of Liquid Nails are such that it is applied via a tube in the form of a bead-like caulking. It is not trowelable like a mortar and therefore results in high ridges with unsupported areas that can deflect under load, resulting in cracked tile.

[/FONT]

 

[Stef]

I glue & screw Hardie to timber floors but when I say "Glue" I mean I glue with tile adhesive not no nails etc.
I've never had a problem with Hardie boards but if you have that much water ingress as in the video then your going to have bother with whatever you use as eventually something will give.

 

[The Legend; Phil Hobson RIP]

Taken from james hardy website

[FONT=&amp]Can I use liquid nails or glue with HardieBacker board?[/FONT]
[FONT=&amp]No. Where HardieBacker board is being installed over a code-complying subfloor for the attachment of tile, the board is installed over a 3/32''-1/4'' thick bed of bonding mortar and then nailed down. ''Liquid Nails'' is not a bonding mortar. It is a structural adhesive generally used to bond the subfloor to the floor joists just prior to nailing. It creates a very solid joint between the surface of the floor joist and the subfloor and aids in reducing floor squeak. The properties of Liquid Nails are such that it is applied via a tube in the form of a bead-like caulking. It is not trowelable like a mortar and therefore results in high ridges with unsupported areas that can deflect under load, resulting in cracked tile.

[/FONT][/QUOTE

That is a US spec, nothing to do with UK.

 

[Qwerty]

I'm with [MENTION=19231]thompsonbrown[/MENTION] on this one. I much prefer using Marmox than Hardi. I have tried Hardi, Aquapanel & Marmox and must say that IMO Marmox is far superior in every way.

I appreciate opinions come into the equation a lot on a thread like this, but I'm curious what reasons people (that have actually used Marmox) give for not using it.
I'm imagining one of the reasons is because people don't stock it locally to them. One tiler I spoke to recently said its because his customers always supply all materials and if they don't stock it locally he won't be using it!

 

[Ajax123]

This is just a " which do you prefer thread" rather than a "which is better thread" both seem to do the same job in slightly different ways.

 

[thompsonbrown]

I thought you could use hardy on wood floors? i tbought you could use hardy on concrete floors?
I thought you could use hardy dot and dabbing ( with addy ) ?

Well FFS can you and if not why
Ps oh and in the video hardi didn't get wet ,it got soaked,looked like it had been in submerged in water for months and months,that one was down to obvious fixer error.
(Although there's been a piece of hardi in water in my local TP for the last few years and looks brand new,could the video be inferior stuff ?)
I'm not saying it's better than marmax or whatever just don't think it's a load of crap

You can use Hardy on wooden floors,

You can't use Hardy on concrete.

The primary function of HardieBacker cement backerboard is to provide a water resistant flat surface to tile on; it is not designed for use over concrete. The minimum sub-floor specified is 15.8 mm exterior grade plywood sub-flooring with a deflection not greater than 3mm for live and dead loads over joists that do not exceed a span of 400 mm centres.

You can't dot & dab Hardy.

No. HardieBacker cement board is not suited to this type of fixing application.

Both answers taken jameshardy.co.uk website.

Having seen quite a few other vids on Hardy Board
You might be about the video. There seems to be a few other products similar to hardy on the market, it possible could be one of them?

 

[thompsonbrown]

Taken from james hardy website

[FONT=&amp]Can I use liquid nails or glue with HardieBacker board?[/FONT]
[FONT=&amp]No. Where HardieBacker board is being installed over a code-complying subfloor for the attachment of tile, the board is installed over a 3/32''-1/4'' thick bed of bonding mortar and then nailed down. ''Liquid Nails'' is not a bonding mortar. It is a structural adhesive generally used to bond the subfloor to the floor joists just prior to nailing. It creates a very solid joint between the surface of the floor joist and the subfloor and aids in reducing floor squeak. The properties of Liquid Nails are such that it is applied via a tube in the form of a bead-like caulking. It is not trowelable like a mortar and therefore results in high ridges with unsupported areas that can deflect under load, resulting in cracked tile.

[/FONT][/QUOTE

That is a US spec, nothing to do with UK.

On jameshardy.co.uk it still asks for tile adhesive to be used for fixing to the floor.

Install HardieBacker® to subfloor
• Apply a gap filling bed of non-flexible tile adhesive to the
subfloor using a 6mm notched trowel.
• Embed HardieBacker® with a sliding motion firmly and evenly
in the wet tile adhesive.
• Use the EZ Grid® fastener pattern as a guide. Fasten
HardieBacker® with specified nails or screws every 200mm
over the entire surface. Keep fixings between 15mm from
board edges and 50mm from board corners.
• Set heads of fixings flush with the surface without overdriving.