Discuss 2 bathrooms floors, Completed the first one today in the Bathroom Tiling Advice area at TilersForums.com.

T

tysfoot

Alreet guys

Started a job today, two small bathroom, underscharged cos its a 3 day job and not a two day jon i intisipated. Never mind


Done the main bathroom today. Even grouted in the same day. Do you think this was a wise move. only wanted to do it today was cos i got my Washboy today and was itching to use it

There was only one tile that was slightly moving so im hoping now it will set tight and the grout will keep it down. :whatchutalkingabout

the second bathroom has floorboards but because its so small and the floor boards are secure im gonna tile staright onto them. I was gonna ply it but the cost of more ply is gonna reduce my profit so am also this is gonna be alright
 
T

tysfoot

its rapidset flxi adhesive, set in 3 hours and superlex Bal grout
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ive bought 4mm ply for the bigger bathroom floor, know some people on here will go mad at me but witht he flexi adhesives and grouts it will hold.
Its bloody expensive ply wood. 2 sheets of 4mm ply £22. nearly had a heart attack. Thats why im doin it on floorbords in the other room. its tiny and ive reinforced the boards wit more screws so am confident it will hold.
 
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G

grumpygrouter

its rapidset flxi adhesive, set in 3 hours and superlex Bal grout
----
ive bought 4mm ply for the bigger bathroom floor, know some people on here will go mad at me but witht he flexi adhesives and grouts it will hold.
Its bloody expensive ply wood. 2 sheets of 4mm ply £22. nearly had a heart attack. Thats why im doin it on floorbords in the other room. its tiny and ive reinforced the boards wit more screws so am confident it will hold.
To be honest Tysfoot mate, I think you have just wasted your money on 4mm ply. It will add very litttle to the strength of the floor and will probably end up having voids underneath as you screw it down. Not having voids on a floor is fundemental to the integrity of the tiling. You are better off not having the ply at all in my opinion and using a more appropriate adhesive. Check out Ardex-flex 7001 and tile straight on to the chipboard in this case. Not much difference in price to BAL flexy rapid set so you can make it back by returning the ply.

Grumpy
 
F

Fekin

Sorry, I was thinking about wall tiling.... why I have no idea :lol:

Yeah, flexi rapidset will be find grouting same day, as for onto floorboards, nope bad idea, not flexi enough, need to go fastflex route, where as if you had used 6mm backerboard secured propperly then topps rapidset flexi is fine, that's what Im currently doing on the job right now.
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£21 quid, where from


Topps trade do one I think for £20 odd.
 
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G

Grace'sDad

Can someone clarify "floorboards"? I think there is some confusion here.

I take this to mean tongue & groove 5" wide traditional style.
Some peeps mean newer caberboards i.e. chipboard panels.

Generally, for traditional floorboards I would only ever use 2 part flexi OR overboard properly with 18mm wbp ply. (I prefer 2 part personally - easier than plying out and saves time)

If it's a newer panelled floor then I have found as long as there is very little deflection (which varies greatly according to quality of building) then Topps rapidset flexible works fine for me. I always prime the boards and throw down extra screws as required, and use a good flexi grout with extra GT1 additive.

Also worth clarifying: single part "flexis" like Topps aren't really all that flexible, but they are cheap and stick well. Two part flexis like BAL Fast flex contain latex crumbs which make them highly flexible. They really are great adhesives but cost a lot.

Weigh up the floor carefully. Don't use 2 part if it's not required, as it's expensive and you will lose work for being too dear. On the other hand, dont use single part adhesive in an effort to simply save cash. As someone else pointed out - learn from you own pricing mistakes. Don't make your customer pay by doing a job wrong coz this will cost you your reputation!

I have even lifted boards and gone under the void to chock the joists and remove deflection. All it costs is a few wooden wedges, screws and half an hour. Then used standard flexi with no probs.
 
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