Discuss Anhydrite with electric mat in the Australia Tiling Forum area at TilersForums.com.

K

kaharrison9

Good Evening.

Looking at an anhydrite conservatory floor tomorrow but with no wet UFH around 35/40m2.

I have a formula for anhydrites with a wet system but this is a first where there is to be an electric ufh system.

Usual anhydrite prepping then was thinking of insulation boards put down with Gypfix, matting laid, self levelled over and was thinking of Ditra on top.

Can anybody see any issues, is Ditra a bit OTT with no wet system and obviously the screed cannot be forced dried.

Cheers all

Kevin
 
K

kaharrison9

This Anhylevel route would be ideal but I was thinking of suggestion putting down insulation boards onto the screed with Gypfix and this would provide the barrier.
I believe there likely to be 600x600 porcelain, would anybody go with Ditra? new screed, conservatory, electric heating, etc.


Owday Rob, how's yourself? keeping busy, still travelling all over the UK.
Just had a knee op and back, they have trimmed a meniscus tear, seems to have sorted it.
Kevin
 
S

Stef

Prep the screed assuming it's dry enough. Stick the insulation boards down with Anhyfix or similar. Put mat down and cover with flexible cement based leveller and tile as normal...

Alan I take it with the cement face of the board coming into contact with the AnhyFix there won't be any issues?
I had phoned TileMaster technical about doing similar with Hardi boards & they told me they would rather I don't do it this way.
 

Ajax123

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Alan I take it with the cement face of the board coming into contact with the AnhyFix there won't be any issues?
I had phoned TileMaster technical about doing similar with Hardi boards & they told me they would rather I don't do it this way.

I don't beleive there would be an issue as the cement face is dry. However if this is a possible issue then lightly priming the back of the boards would eliminate the risk. As the insulation board offer a very good mechanical key I beleive this would be a robust solution. Obviously if there is a better way, as always, I am happy to be corrected.
 
S

Stef

I don't beleive there would be an issue as the cement face is dry. However if this is a possible issue then lightly priming the back of the boards would eliminate the risk. As the insulation board offer a very good mechanical key I beleive this would be a robust solution. Obviously if there is a better way, as always, I am happy to be corrected.

Alan that's good enough for me. [emoji106][emoji106]
 
K

kaharrison9

A good point Stef has highlighted.

I spoke to Julian the Gypfix rep and he said to prime twice the screed and use a particular rapid cement adhesive rather than the option of Gypfix and prime the board.

I myself think the Ajax way has better odds.

There is a possibility the customer will not go for the boards anyway due to the cost, thin screed, well insulated.

I do want to use my usual cement adhesive but without insulation boards there is no physical barrier so has anybody any methods how to get from anhydrite screed, UFH +self levelled to cement adhesive.

The only option I can see is double primed then self levelled on top with a latex based compound.

Does a 2 part run the same risk on a primed anhydrite as cement adhesive does.

Cheers.

Kev
 
S

Stef

I would stay away from cement addy & use Anhylevel to slc the wires then I would use AnhyFix to fix the tiles.
I've used this method without a problem & AnhyFix is one of the best adhesives I have used.
Strange using Anhylevel as it's white in the bucket, you keep thinking you are pouring out adhesive instead of slc.
 

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Anhydrite with electric mat
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Australia Tiling Forum
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