ATS blade, Grinder,

This design of blade is quite good but it does suffer the problem of being particularly fragile.
Snag it, and you'll probably tear a chunk out of it.
I know of a fixer on here who had snagged both my pro Gres and his own Rubi viper and torn chunks out of both.
And the Extol industries version of the same blade suffers the same problem.

We'd be interested in knowing who is the blade ruiner?
 
This design of blade is quite good but it does suffer the problem of being particularly fragile.
Snag it, and you'll probably tear a chunk out of it.
I know of a fixer on here who had snagged both my pro Gres and his own Rubi viper and torn chunks out of both.
And the Extol industries version of the same blade suffers the same problem.
I do not agree,
definitely, the problem is another....
Five years that progres use, never had any problems 😛
 
however, this blade is just for porcelain.
not to cut, brick, quartz etc.
and not 20mm, immediately burn.
it would be better, in these trends, specify, cutting water, or dry cutting.
because with water, many blades cutting ability.
the problem remains dry cutting. ( not for me). 😉
ps
I promised that no longer speaks of blades.
but I was biting my tongue. 😉
 
It's worth a try.

We can buy off the shelf stuff like the RUBI blade above, but if we're unbranded (or ATS branded) it needs to be substantially cheaper to attract customers.

If a Montolit DNA is £150 and the ATS version comes in at £120, you're going to buy the DNA every time, it's branded and trusted.

Now if ours comes in at £60 that's a different story and a big saving.

Ultimately it comes down to how many we'd sell. We've been asked and researched a number of products that we've decided not to go ahead with due to concerns over sales volumes.
I disagree, if I understand correctly, you are saying, more or less, Montolit blade from 160 €, could be as ats 60 €?
like saying, tcs Montolit in italy € 30, could be as ats blue blade from 15 €?
upload_2016-9-14_18-35-8.jpeg

porcturbo_150.jpg
 
Spent some time this afternoon trying the blade out on different materials.
Porcel-Thin
10mm porcelain
12mm green slate
20mm limestone
20mm porcelain
30mm slate
Quartz again.

image.jpeg

All dry cut, regular dressing in between each material.
Don't like swapping materials with blades, I find you get better longevity by having one blade per material type, and once you swap from one to another, when you go back, it's never quite the same.
But anyway.
Here are the resulting images.
Porcel-Thin dry, not great.
image.jpeg

10mm porcelain

image.jpeg

20mm limestone

image.jpeg

20mm porcelain.

image.jpeg

12mm slate, destroyed it as expected.

image.jpeg

30mm slate, cut it like a dream!

image.jpeg

Then went around again this time with a sponge.

Porcel-Thin.
From the left of the 4 cuts (not far left broken piece!) first two were wet, then tried dry again and as you can see tike broke. Went wet for 4th and again, ok.

image.jpeg

10mm porcelain wet
Far right of 4 was dry again, not as good.
image.jpeg

12mm slate wet cut, perfect cut and no flaking.

image.jpeg

Then back dry with Quartz.
Perfect cuts. (Left side)

image.jpeg

This was state of blade after

image.jpeg

Lost most of the colour when using sponge, but that's to be expected.

It stayed very cool when using it dry.
After testing on every material I could hold the blade between my fingers within moments, in fact pretty much as soon as it stopped rotating.
It cut most material very quickly, the only ones that were slow by comparison were the 20mm porcelain and 30mm slate, but what else would you expect.
Oh and it didn't burn with the 20mm porcelain.

So in order of material with best finish
Quartz, 30mm slate and limestone, all extremely good cuts and difficult to put in order.
20mm porcelain next.
Then 10mm porcelain.
Porcel-Thin
And 12mm slate dry last. Disintegrated.

Would I buy the blade?
If it was £15 and under, probably.
I say that price because I can source very similar for £12.99
 
Very comprehensive thanks.
however, this blade is just for porcelain.
not to cut, brick, quartz etc.
and not 20mm, immediately burn.
it would be better, in these trends, specify, cutting water, or dry cutting.
because with water, many blades cutting ability.
the problem remains dry cutting. ( not for me). 😉
ps
I promised that no longer speaks of blades.
but I was biting my tongue. 😉

Abbiamo inviato una lama a voi Antonio . Quando arriva si può provare
 
It might be worth mentioning that the 10mm porcelain was a printed plank, so chipping is common.
Didn't have any full bodied to hand.
 
It might be worth mentioning that the 10mm porcelain was a printed plank, so chipping is common.
Didn't have any full bodied to hand.

It's the 20mm porcelain that interests me actually. This product seems to be troublesome when it comes to cutting dry.

As for costs these are going to be in the region of the price you mentioned, these are not expensive blades. To be honest most blades are not expensive, most of what you pay is importer/wholesaler/retailer mark up, particuarly for the branded stuff.

We'll get a few hundred of these in production in 115mm and 125mm and see how we get on with them.
 
Spent some time this afternoon trying the blade out on different materials.
Porcel-Thin
10mm porcelain
12mm green slate
20mm limestone
20mm porcelain
30mm slate
Quartz again.

View attachment 84563

All dry cut, regular dressing in between each material.
Don't like swapping materials with blades, I find you get better longevity by having one blade per material type, and once you swap from one to another, when you go back, it's never quite the same.
But anyway.
Here are the resulting images.
Porcel-Thin dry, not great.
View attachment 84564

10mm porcelain

View attachment 84565

20mm limestone

View attachment 84566

20mm porcelain.

View attachment 84567

12mm slate, destroyed it as expected.

View attachment 84568

30mm slate, cut it like a dream!

View attachment 84569

Then went around again this time with a sponge.

Porcel-Thin.
From the left of the 4 cuts (not far left broken piece!) first two were wet, then tried dry again and as you can see tike broke. Went wet for 4th and again, ok.

View attachment 84570

10mm porcelain wet
Far right of 4 was dry again, not as good.
View attachment 84571

12mm slate wet cut, perfect cut and no flaking.

View attachment 84572

Then back dry with Quartz.
Perfect cuts. (Left side)

View attachment 84573

This was state of blade after

View attachment 84574

Lost most of the colour when using sponge, but that's to be expected.

It stayed very cool when using it dry.
After testing on every material I could hold the blade between my fingers within moments, in fact pretty much as soon as it stopped rotating.
It cut most material very quickly, the only ones that were slow by comparison were the 20mm porcelain and 30mm slate, but what else would you expect.
Oh and it didn't burn with the 20mm porcelain.

So in order of material with best finish
Quartz, 30mm slate and limestone, all extremely good cuts and difficult to put in order.
20mm porcelain next.
Then 10mm porcelain.
Porcel-Thin
And 12mm slate dry last. Disintegrated.

Would I buy the blade?
If it was £15 and under, probably.
I say that price because I can source very similar for £12.99
They are almost drunk 🙂
 
well, actually, that kind of blade, offers a very high level of finish.
I tried three different brands, only difference is the blade durability. (depends on the thickness of 1mm, 1.2mm and the type of used diamond.) and of course the price.
however, the result of the cut is the same. 😉
 
This was a month and a half of life.
I wanted to experiment, I bought 10 pieces, for 13 € per piece. Shipping included.
the first day, I gave a blade to my colleague, (quite rude man), after 10 cuts, broke the blade. He had grinder that vibrated a lot and as usual, he used blade to remove the cut tile.
my blade however, continues to cut very well, honestly, I've never had one blade so fast and with a level of finish, very high. (not even Montolit).
But (there's always a but, otherwise antonio is not happy), the blade is very thin and I have a little afraid to use it. the duration, being so thin could be limited. (We'll see how long it lasts).
ps. 5 pieces I've already sold them. because I've seen you do a red version, most professional and cost 2 € more.

IMG_20160916_152919.jpg
 
good evening,
I told alan of ats, not to send the blade to be tested. (for reasons I'm not here to explain). but the blade is now arrived.
all blades are new
I execute the test tomorrow. as I always have, I execute the test with three different brands (Montolit, ats and German brand, but made in china,). Montolit'm not sure if made in china or made in eu, sure not made in Italy.
as you know, a true test, should also be on the life of the blade, but I am unable, for ats. for the duration Montolit know, for "German", I'm using 1.5 months.
the tests that I run months ago, were performed with the same criteria, at least two brands, only the final results, I sent to them alan pm, this time, if you agree, I will post them on this trend. (If there are problems, say).
I will test 60x60x1 porcelain marazzi very hard, a 60x60x1 dark color, to see the level of finish and a thin porcelain 4.5 mm, which will add MONTOLIT blade squadro 85mm. (The best) for me. It will also test with a 20mm porcelain and one stone, to satisfy alan, (I disagree) but I will use only ats blade.
I hope you understand what I wrote.
hi, see you tomorrow

IMG_20160923_135932.jpg IMG_20160923_140036.jpg IMG_20160923_140211.jpg IMG_20160923_140256.jpg
 
puff .....
premise, alan, your blade vibration, does not seem balanced. 🙁
it does not matter.
as I said in previous posts, the level of finish and cutting, seem all three brands, on the same level. only difference is the thickness, Montolit, is 1.4mm, 1.2mm green and ats. This may affect the life of the blade.
Porcelain chapter 20mm, as I was told by Montolit and is what I thought, this type of blade is not suitable for 20mm, because it burns and is consumed quickly, actually I was not able to cut, when the tile is broken, I checked the blade and began has become black.
much better use of blue ats blade.
Chapter stone, it seems ok.
thin porcelain chapter, a word, 85 mm-squadro unbeatable, 1mm thick.
now I think to open a shop and sell the blades. 😉
Finally, this type of blade, lacked the supply of Ats and is irreplaceable.

ps, if I can give some advice to alan, I see that you insist on blades for porcelain 20mm, not is enough to copy most renowned brands ?, of course raising the level of your blade blue, I'm no expert on diamond technology and are just an apprentice, but a version to 20mm, in your blue blade, might solve you the problem,
as I mentioned to you, the last test to 20 mm in PM
this is the reason for which I did not want take the test.
thanks alan,

IMG_20160924_080225.jpg IMG_20160924_082134.jpg IMG_20160924_083613.jpg IMG_20160924_084552.jpg IMG_20160924_085542.jpg IMG_20160924_090503.jpg IMG_20160924_091307.jpg IMG_20160924_091322.jpg IMG_20160924_091330.jpg IMG_20160924_091334.jpg IMG_20160924_091736.jpg IMG_20160924_092040.jpg IMG_20160924_093449.jpg IMG_20160924_093521.jpg IMG_20160924_093718.jpg IMG_20160924_094005.jpg
 
I forgot to say which is the best, for me, the green. (For porcelain 1 cm).
immediately fast from the first cut, certainly durability and safety is less than Montolit,
but with A shallow focus of, it is worth it.
ats blade, shame it was unbalanced and vibrated, first cut has struggled, but then faster. good.
 

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