Discuss Back to basics - wall tiling in the UK Tiling Forum area at TilersForums.com.

C

cornish_crofter

I'm looking at the process of tiling.

I've cut and pasted some rough notes about the process of tiling.

Comments please?


Prep

Flatten out wall. Choose find high spot and go from there, or consider removing high spot and reassess. Level out using rapid set or similar

Tank as necessary

Decide on layout etc, grout lines with floor, or reasonable cuts etc on corners

Setting out - decide how the tiles are to look.

Mark centre lines on walls

Battening above bottom row all around

Apply adhesive and tile about a metre squared at a time. Use tile spacers then.

Work the whole wall, ensuring that grout lines line up – I have problems here how to I get this wrong?

Carry on until you reach the edges the walls

Remove batton

Measure and cut each edge top and bottom tile
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I

Ian

I'm looking at the process of tiling.

I've cut and pasted some rough notes about the process of tiling.

Comments please?


Prep

Flatten out wall. Choose find high spot and go from there, or consider removing high spot and reassess. Level out using rapid set or similar

Tank as necessary

Decide on layout etc, grout lines with floor, or reasonable cuts etc on corners

Setting out - decide how the tiles are to look.

Mark centre lines on walls

Battening above bottom row all around

Apply adhesive and tile about a metre squared at a time. Use tile spacers then.

Work the whole wall, ensuring that grout lines line up – I have problems here how to I get this wrong?

Carry on until you reach the edges the walls

Remove batton

Measure and cut each edge top and bottom tile

Space the tiles one at a time, as you go. If you have irregular sized tiles (and there are alot about at the moment) you are giving yourself a hard task if you are trying to line up a square metre at a time. I've also found that with these cheaper tiles if you use a bigger spacer it gives you a bit more to play with if you need it ie. 3mm instead of 2mm on walls and 5mm instead of 4mm on floors.
 
C

cornish_crofter

Space the tiles one at a time, as you go. If you have irregular sized tiles (and there are alot about at the moment) you are giving yourself a hard task if you are trying to line up a square metre at a time. I've also found that with these cheaper tiles if you use a bigger spacer it gives you a bit more to play with if you need it ie. 3mm instead of 2mm on walls and 5mm instead of 4mm on floors.

Are you saying its a case of fix first tile to centre line, then fix 2nd tile using tile spacers next to it, then third tile next to that?

As you say, irregular tiles are giving me a problem and I have been spacing the tiles as I go. However I do struggle when I come across a slightly bigger tile and I can't get the spacers in. To that end your suggestion of using 3mm spacers would work. Would you advocate carrying both 2mm and 3mm spacers, using the 3mm spacers to start with then going to the 2mm if I get problems?
 
D

doug boardley

Are you saying its a case of fix first tile to centre line, then fix 2nd tile using tile spacers next to it, then third tile next to that?

As you say, irregular tiles are giving me a problem and I have been spacing the tiles as I go. However I do struggle when I come across a slightly bigger tile and I can't get the spacers in. To that end your suggestion of using 3mm spacers would work. Would you advocate carrying both 2mm and 3mm spacers, using the 3mm spacers to start with then going to the 2mm if I get problems?
with irregular sized tiles Hugo, I find that wedges are the way to go, you can adjust the spacing accordingly with them.
 
I

Ian

Are you saying its a case of fix first tile to centre line, then fix 2nd tile using tile spacers next to it, then third tile next to that?

As you say, irregular tiles are giving me a problem and I have been spacing the tiles as I go. However I do struggle when I come across a slightly bigger tile and I can't get the spacers in. To that end your suggestion of using 3mm spacers would work. Would you advocate carrying both 2mm and 3mm spacers, using the 3mm spacers to start with then going to the 2mm if I get problems?

Exactly that, or get some wedges then you can open or close your joints to suit. I dont use wedges, like you said just have 2mm and 3mm next to you when tiling, start with the 3mm and use the 2mm if you get a big one!
 
A

Alberta Stone

I also use wedges.
I have a large tray with a variety of different spacers and wedges both soft rubber and hard plastic that I pack around.
Sometimes I can just use one kind, but with those weird tiles you need an assortment platter of spacers to help you out.
I never comb a square meter of wall and then place tiles. ( a couple of square feet, depending on the situation, sometimes more, often less).
A laser reference line running while one is doing a key section really helps as the drawn line often gets mudded over, but it is not necessary if you have enough reference lines drawn in the right places.
A couple of levels and straight edges are key pieces of equipment for any tile setter.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
C

cornish_crofter

Irregular sized tiles are a real PITA. I've found that you can squash the spacers from 3 down to 2.5 or even 2 using pliers. Then you can lock the oversized tile in place without disturbing the overall pattern.

Do you mean "Battening above bottom row all around"? I usually batten below the lowest full tile and aim for about 3/4 tile height down to the floor from there.

That's exactly what I do. In my approach the batten is laid on the datum line. The actual height of the batten depends on a number of factors. For example I try to establish a full tile height above the bath, shower tray or basin if some or all are on a continuous run.
 
C

cornish_crofter

One more question please guys.

Grouting.

I've done this loads of times before and I'm planning to do it tomorrow.

Previously I've mixed up the grout and then applied it to the tiles using a grout float, then wiped it about 5 mins after with a sponge using light pressure and sweeping diagonally or a circular motion so I don't pull any grout out of a join.

However with these tiles I've got 2 problems.

1) The glazing is a little lacking on the edges. Recently I found that this approach left lines of biscuit coloured backing visable.

2) Mainly thanks to the quality of the tiles (being bowed or twisted) I have an issue with sllight lippage in places. I'm talking about .25 of a mm if that in a few places.

Can anyone please suggest any modifications to the grouting approach I've outlined above please.

I am forever in your debt gents.


Hugo
 

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