bad walls&floors

[cone]

Been out to price a job in an old house, parts of the walls the plaster/scratch coath has failed and is coming off and when I put a level on the other walls, there's a few large humps which is taking me out about 2inch at top of tge level. There's some prep work needed but wanting to know what's best.

I was thinking either cement backer board or gypsum plasterboard but leaning towards the backer board for its strength. If I do choose to cover the room in backer board, will I need to prime walls before tiling. When working above the doorframe, the backer board is going sit out along with the tiles, is there a thicker bead I can get to cover this?

 

[White Room]

Personally I'd be removing any bad plaster, I would also be hesitant about over fixing anything on bad substrate.

 

[cone]

Personally I'd be removing any bad plaster, I would also be hesitant about over fixing anything on bad substrate.

TBH there's only small patches on one wall where plaster has failed, the other walls where the large humps are, the plaster is OK. Was thinking of sticking the backer board to the wall with rapid set adhesive and also screw it. The walls are in a bad way and I think this would be the best approach but worried about over and around the door.

 

[David Rowell]

Been out to price a job in an old house, parts of the walls the plaster/scratch coath has failed and is coming off and when I put a level on the other walls, there's a few large humps which is taking me out about 2inch at top of tge level. There's some prep work needed but wanting to know what's best.

I was thinking either cement backer board or gypsum plasterboard but leaning towards the backer board for its strength. If I do choose to cover the room in backer board, will I need to prime walls before tiling. When working above the doorframe, the backer board is going sit out along with the tiles, is there a thicker bead I can get to cover this?

Ayup the around the doors...is there architraves already on? If yes remove architraves and glue some dressed timber on the back and then re pin it on and touch up with paint after.

Hope this helps

 

[cone]

Ayup the around the doors...is there architraves already on? If yes remove architraves and glue some dressed timber on the back and then re pin it on and touch up with paint after.

Hope this helps

There is no architraves on the door but was thinking of putting some but that will only be flush with the board. The tiles will still stick out! I know I can put a bead over the architrave where tile will overhang it but its something I've never did before and think it wouldn't look right IMO.

 

[Sean SML Tiling]

I'm assuming it's a brick wall? If so hack off all the crap and dot and dab new plasterboard. No need to go to expense of backer board if it's not needed. If it's stud wall rip down and re stud.

 

[White Room]

What he said

 

[cone]

I'm assuming it's a brick wall? If so hack off all the crap and dot and dab new plasterboard. No need to go to expense of backer board if it's not needed. If it's stud wall rip down and re stud.

Its a block extension tied into an old stone house. Its a downstairs bathroom with shower in the corner. I was thinking of going for the plasterboard but thought the cement board would be the better option. Would dat and dab be strong enough to hold all the tiles or should I screw it on with clips as well for extra strength.

 

[White Room]

Depending what tiles your fixing, plasterboard can take upto 32kg m2.

 

[cone]

Depending what tiles your fixing, plasterboard can take upto 32kg m2.

600x200 ceramic tiles with border. Don't know the weight per sqm though and I use an 8mm trowel when installing wall tiles thou trowel at an angle so its probly 5mm once trowled over.

 

[White Room]

600x200 ceramic tiles with border. Don't know the weight per sqm though and I use an 8mm trowel when installing wall tiles thou trowel at an angle so its probly 5mm once trowled over.

You would fine with those tiles.

 

[cone]

:8:

You would fine with those tiles.