Oh, I know it well, hubby's grandparents used to live there, he spent most of his childhood holidays there, so it's a special place for him. I am pretty sure I know the caravan site you are going to, too, used to walk past it.
Well, it's very very quiet, if you're into watching a flowing river, with some shallow areas ok to play a little in, watch the kids, it's quite fast flowing, walking round castle ruins, visiting just one or two nice cafe's and I think the market used to be on Thursdays, but not sure now. One of the chipshops has been there since H was little, there is Raby Castle around ten miles away as well as Barnard castle, both of which was bought by someone for some ridiculous price, just few thousand years back, can't quite remember the story, I remember a couple of good restaurants and some pubs... think of a small town with just a couple of main roads, but longs walks possible, through woods, too, so is fishing. Not exactly the mecca for entertainment, at all, I don't think I would visit it that often, a bit too quiet for me, but I must admit the atmosphere is really nice, it gets cosier as you slow down, be prepared for an away from it all place. Huge carboot sale on the weekend. Oh, and Bowes museum, that's pretty good. Hope this helps.