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Discuss Bath Sealing Strip in the UK Tiling Forum area at TilersForums.com.

D

diamondtiling

Smooth the silicone off level with the bath Minnie, once you have filled the gap get a small glass and half fill with warm water, add a large squirt of washing up liquid, you can smooth the silicone off with your finger dipped in the solution from the glass, you will find that the silicone can be smoothed off without it sticking to your finger, leave the water in the bath until the silicone has dried completely, at least 12 hours.

:thumbsup:
 
M

Minnie

As long as you can really, if it's very thick silicone 1 maybe even 2 days, if normal size bead overnight is fine

flush with the bath, it is intended to act as a second water barrier incase your primary silicone (the one put on after tiling) fails


2 days :yikes:

I won't be able to do any more work :yikes:

Well the widest bit of the gap is just under 10mm, so I'm guessing I need to cut a big chunk of the nozzle to make a thick sized bead and it'll take forever to dry, well 24 hours maybe, hopefully not 2 days?
 
M

Minnie

Smooth the silicone off level with the bath Minnie, once you have filled the gap get a small glass and half fill with warm water, add a large squirt of washing up liquid, you can smooth the silicone off with your finger dipped in the solution from the glass, you will find that the silicone can be smoothed off without it sticking to your finger, leave the water in the bath until the silicone has dried completely, at least 12 hours.

:thumbsup:


Right, I'm off to do that now. Actually, I'm not. I'm going to do the window sill else I'm going to be way behind if I have to leave water in bath.

Could move on to sink area if I had a plan of how to do it. :lol:
 
M

Minnie

it doesn't have to be dead flush with the top, if you want to add more you can. As mentioned before this is a back up seal not the primary one:thumbsup:


Yeah, but it's somehow playing havoc with my measurements. I think rather than measuring flush with the bath, I've been erm, I dunno, I just seem to keep getting this particular wall wrong, so I figured if the sealant was flush with the bath, I'd at least have a proper surface to rest tape on. As it is, I seem to keep cutting the tiles too short which means they'd end up with a sealant space of about 1/2 - 1cm which seems a bit on the large side.
 
M

Minnie

I think my brain's frozen. The central heating and hot water has broken down. I can't concentrate.

Anyway, another little question regarding the sink area.

Do I overlap the horizontal tiles with the vertical ones on the splashback (so I end up with a grout line on the splashback itself) or do I bring the vertical ones up to cover the edges of the horizontal. I'm guessing the former so the water can run off?

9270375-791
 
D

diamondtiling

Minnie those walls look a little, er rough shall we say, would you be able to skim up them with a little bit of adhesive? from the right of the crack in the wall to the left it looks like about 3mm difference, doing it now will save you time later. The crack itself? is it stable? is the plaster loose because it usually is around a crack like that. You could buy a couple of sheets of mosaics and use them on the shelf ledge, that might help you instead of trying to match up grout lines. Don't forget to prime the walls first with an acrylic bond. However you do that area over the sink you might have to split the tiles and that will not look good if you cant get the silicone to cover the joint. I would try for a mosaic band over the sink as well.

:thumbsup:
 

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