Battens

[Stef]

that's how I am being taught to do it stef so have no choice on the matter mate lol. but tbh I just mark a few course up, strike a line around the room and then work down from that level... then when it comes to chucking the screws into the wall you just have to push the tiles together (with the spacers in place) if ya know what I mean mate? its very effective tbh

I only do this when needed but you would be quicker to stick a batton on the wall Ash,
Depends how heavy your tile is also..

 

[Mr Tiler]

well its mainly 600x300 atm mate

 

[cam_low]

with the way some people are paying at the moment I will start a thread up about 'what technique do you use to remove the tiles without damaging them so you can get your adhesive back'

 

[AliGage]

Rubi batten stands and various lengths of steel box sections to tile from. Then tile floor and do wall cuts.

 

[Peter]

Gone are the days when you can draw your line a metre high, spread the entire bottom section and work from the line down. There was a lot less faffing about before the advent of large formats. :mad2:

 

[The Legend; Phil Hobson RIP]

I posted on this years back using two datum lines, one for the tile finish, one for the floor level. This way you can mark your cuts to the floor without bending down, cuts go in first, so no need to batten.

 

[TJ Smiler]

Depends on the job (and i seem to go through phases) type/size of tile and the state of the walls for me.... after setting out i would then normally measure down to the top of the bottom tile then set my laser up on this line and put all the cuts to the floor in first.


I do like the floor being tiled first as it feels like a big lump on the job has been done so i often also put the floor in first and then do the same system as above............. if ever i do use batten i have the rubi stands and several old spirit levels that i use as the batten.

 

[charlie1]

I posted on this years back using two datum lines, one for the tile finish, one for the floor level. This way you can mark your cuts to the floor without bending down, cuts go in first, so no need to batten.

Phill, it's methods like this that separate you and one or two others from the rest!! Excellent method!

 

[charlie1]

I tend to use battens if I have concerns over the flatness of the walls, I don't want to be messing about too much with levels if I'm adjusting the plane of the tiles too, just too much going on so sometimes just batten it and that's one thing I don't need to worry about. When battening, you must try and find a solid fixing and pay attention to where you put your fixings and not just for pipes / cables but let's say (as someone has mentioned before) Your only using 2 or 3 fixings then considering your placement of the fixings, try to imaging how your batten will flex under weight stress from tiles because the flex could start giving you problems with grout joints opening up or closing as you move up the wall. Try to get as many fixings as possible but mind those pipes.

 

[afright]

Rubi stands on large format tiles,on ceramic tiles I work for a whole tile to the ceiling putting a level line halfway, work down from the line using small ovals nailing the bottom tile if on plaster or board then cutting last tile in leaving the nail as a spacer.