Battens

[The Legend; Phil Hobson RIP]

I posted on this years back using two datum lines, one for the tile finish, one for the floor level. This way you can mark your cuts to the floor without bending down, cuts go in first, so no need to batten.

 

[TJ Smiler]

Depends on the job (and i seem to go through phases) type/size of tile and the state of the walls for me.... after setting out i would then normally measure down to the top of the bottom tile then set my laser up on this line and put all the cuts to the floor in first.


I do like the floor being tiled first as it feels like a big lump on the job has been done so i often also put the floor in first and then do the same system as above............. if ever i do use batten i have the rubi stands and several old spirit levels that i use as the batten.

 

[charlie1]

I posted on this years back using two datum lines, one for the tile finish, one for the floor level. This way you can mark your cuts to the floor without bending down, cuts go in first, so no need to batten.

Phill, it's methods like this that separate you and one or two others from the rest!! Excellent method!

 

[charlie1]

I tend to use battens if I have concerns over the flatness of the walls, I don't want to be messing about too much with levels if I'm adjusting the plane of the tiles too, just too much going on so sometimes just batten it and that's one thing I don't need to worry about. When battening, you must try and find a solid fixing and pay attention to where you put your fixings and not just for pipes / cables but let's say (as someone has mentioned before) Your only using 2 or 3 fixings then considering your placement of the fixings, try to imaging how your batten will flex under weight stress from tiles because the flex could start giving you problems with grout joints opening up or closing as you move up the wall. Try to get as many fixings as possible but mind those pipes.

 

[afright]

Rubi stands on large format tiles,on ceramic tiles I work for a whole tile to the ceiling putting a level line halfway, work down from the line using small ovals nailing the bottom tile if on plaster or board then cutting last tile in leaving the nail as a spacer.

 

[afright]

I posted on this years back using two datum lines, one for the tile finish, one for the floor level. This way you can mark your cuts to the floor without bending down, cuts go in first, so no need to batten.

Never to old to learn what with my knees and back,thanks.

 

[dboden]

I posted on this years back using two datum lines, one for the tile finish, one for the floor level. This way you can mark your cuts to the floor without bending down, cuts go in first, so no need to batten.

I don't understand this? :52:

 

[charlie1]

I may be slightly wrong but here what I think it is...

1, strike datum line around room (must be where a horizontal joint will be).
2, mark out full tiles down to the floor until you you can't fit anymore.
3, measure from the datum line to the bottom of the last tile and subtract joint width + a few mm... Let's say 5mm in total, now cut a piece of wood to this length
5, take the piece of wood and place vertically on wall with one end touching floor, place a mark on the wall at the top of the wood. ... Continue this process at where every vertical grout joint will be (very important you insure the wood is vertical during this stage so use a level along with wood.
6, draw a vertical line where each tile will be connecting the 2 horizontal lines

you should now have your bottom row measurements.

 

[charlie1]

Rubi stands on large format tiles,on ceramic tiles I work for a whole tile to the ceiling putting a level line halfway, work down from the line using small ovals nailing the bottom tile if on plaster or board then cutting last tile in leaving the nail as a spacer.

Dont you just love it when a new ceiling is being installed and your setting out allows you full tile from top... Priceless!!

 

[White Room]

Batton stands for me, Raimondi ones from Kwik Split

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] [/FONT] ​ ​

 

[The Legend; Phil Hobson RIP]

I may be slightly wrong but here what I think it is...

1, strike datum line around room (must be where a horizontal joint will be).
2, mark out full tiles down to the floor until you you can't fit anymore.
3, measure from the datum line to the bottom of the last tile and subtract joint width + a few mm... Let's say 5mm in total, now cut a piece of wood to this length

Spot on Mark.
5, take the piece of wood and place vertically on wall with one end touching floor, place a mark on the wall at the top of the wood. ... Continue this process at where every vertical grout joint will be (very important you insure the wood is vertical during this stage so use a level along with wood.
6, draw a vertical line where each tile will be connecting the 2 horizontal lines

you should now have your bottom row measurements.

Spot on Mark.