Best option when removing floorboards?

[DarylR]

Hello all!

So, ive done a few tiling jobs with my old man before, but lets say that his methods probably are not the right ones!

Now ive just bought my first home and am sorting the bathroom and kitchen and want them done right.

Bathroom is currently a council installed wetroom, its all coming out to make space for a tiled bathroom. The floorboards have already been removed by the council to make way for the wetroom underfloor tray and the rest is boarded. Im going to remove everything back to the beams, my question is what is the best way to replace it? 22mm ply and 6mm backer boards? ill be having electric UFH installed too.

Will i need a membrane, will Mapetex do or should i use Ditra?

For the kitchen, ill be tiling it too but the floorboards are there still, will i be okay with just the 6mm backer board over the floorboards?

Tiles for both rooms will be 600x600mm 8mm porcelain

Thank you!

 

[Dave]

Hello all!

So, ive done a few tiling jobs with my old man before, but lets say that his methods probably are not the right ones!

Now ive just bought my first home and am sorting the bathroom and kitchen and want them done right.

Bathroom is currently a council installed wetroom, its all coming out to make space for a tiled bathroom. The floorboards have already been removed by the council to make way for the wetroom underfloor tray and the rest is boarded. Im going to remove everything back to the beams, my question is what is the best way to replace it? 22mm ply and 6mm backer boards? ill be having electric UFH installed too.

Will i need a membrane, will Mapetex do or should i use Ditra?

For the kitchen, ill be tiling it too but the floorboards are there still, will i be okay with just the 6mm backer board over the floorboards?

Tiles for both rooms will be 600x600mm 8mm porcelain

Thank you!

I would replace the bathroom flooring with 22mm T&G chipboard , then overboard with hardibacker , then install ufh and level over. No need for crack matt imho.

kitchen floor , then hardibacker is fine with the info given..

 

[DarylR]

I would replace the bathroom flooring with 22mm T&G chipboard , then overboard with hardibacker , then install ufh and level over. No need for crack matt imho.

kitchen floor , then hardibacker is fine with the info given..

Thanks!

Ive opted for No More Ply 6mm as i read that its insulation properties are better than the Hardibacker.

My plan is to do as you have said but with the NMP.

Is leveling with a leveling compound necessary or can tiles be applied straight over the UFH?

 

[Dave]

Thanks!

Ive opted for No More Ply 6mm as i read that its insulation properties are better than the Hardibacker.

My plan is to do as you have said but with the NMP.

Is leveling with a leveling compound necessary or can tiles be applied straight over the UFH?

I prefer to level then it fully encapsulates the wires and if needed to lift and adjust a tile as you are tiling , then it wont pull on the wires.

 

[Bill]

@Dave gave you the best option as per your query and you have ignored it - what is the point in asking if you ignore the advice?

Hardiebacker is great at insulating and IMO a far better product for cost/cutting/handling/fixing/strength than 6mm NMP.

What you should be asking yourself is why have UFH in a bathroom?

It is not cheap - it is not cheap to run compared to a pair of slippers - it can cause installation problems for inexperienced fitters - the amount of time you spend with your bare feet on tiles in a bathroom is pretty short - sorry to be a humbug but advice is what you wanted.

p.s. I have been tiling for nearly 40 years and I still can't fathom out why folk wants UFH in the smallest room in the house considering the cost.

 

[Boggs]

I will agree with @Tom Astley on the ufh.
I have it in a bathroom at home and it’s not been switched on for over a year, I only put it in as it’s a wet room but the cost of running it out ways the luxury of slightly warmer feet.
But I am a tight arse.

 

[CJ]

👆As David said 👍👍

 

[J K Tiling Cornwall]

Have to agree with Tom I'd use Hardie backer over no more ply all day long. The NMP is tough but tough to the point where it is brittle, has to have pilot holes drilled first before screwing down. Where as the Hardie backer can all be cut with a hand saw and screws drive straight through it. Have fitted a lot of underfloor heating but only have piped in my own house. (only on for 2 hours a day as I'm a tight git also!) But if only a small room say 4 m² an electric heat mat could be around 800watts to run.

 

[DarylR]

Thanks for all of the replies.

The reason I opted for NMP was that I researched and ordered it before the reply from Dave. I’ve read a number of posts and seems that there are benefits to both NMP and hardibacker. I have the NMP now so will use it. I’m not going to be put off by having to pilot drill holes etc. Will just make a note of this when installing.

Regarding the electric UFH, the actual cost of installing it at this stage is relatively low, I got the matting cheap when on offer so I’d rather have and not need it rather than want it but not have it.

I have UFH in my current house en-suite and use it regularly. It’s not in the other bathrooms and you notice the cold on the tiles.

 

[J Sid]

I had ufh in bathroom and wet room left on 24/7 365 and wouldn't have been without it but I'm only a soft southern.
I'd use insulation-boards, 10mm and no uncoupling over wires unless stone going down, and slc

 

[DarylR]

I had ufh in bathroom and wet room left on 24/7 365 and wouldn't have been without it but I'm only a soft southern.
I'd use insulation-boards, 10mm and no uncoupling over wires unless stone going down, and slc

Must be a southern thing, I’m from Bournemouth and love my UFH!