Discuss Brick Slips advice req in the Australia Tiling Forum area at TilersForums.com.

I'd Check with the supplier that the brick slips are OK for for this area. These wood burners often get fitted too close to the sides and the tiles crack and come off due to excessive heat.
Most cement based adhesives rated 90c + should do.
Im not sure about sealing, Ive not had a lot to do with brick slips.
 

Lithofin BOB

TF
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Hampshire
Similar to a clay/ terracotta ,I would say you would still lay the slips first , ensure all moisture is released then seal with an impregnating seal, topical will not be suitable close to a heat source. You may then need to bag or gun the pointing rather than slurry as the surface cappillary or textured surface may contaminate with this ,even if sealed as the impregnators line and do not fill the finish. Impregnate a spare unlaid brick and test grout release on this first to determine how you can approach .Once pointing fully dry- impregnate all.
 
You can pre seal them, front and sides however, you'll have to ensure that they are fully dry before fixing them on the wall or you'll trap the moisture in.
I'd not wait too long before cleaning the grout off, it could become tricky else. If they look to bad you could try a grout gun, but I cant say I've ever used one myself.
 

Lithofin BOB

TF
Esteemed
601
518
Hampshire
Thanks Bob. I was hoping in that pre sealing I would prevent any staining during the fitting?, use rapid setting adh and then seal again prior to grouting, because I was envisaging problems during the grout clean up.
If I did use a rapid setting adh how long would you recommend before sealing?

If you feel happier ,pre seal in many cases I'm sure will be fine, but couldn't recomend, I tend to get a lot of clay/ brick based can produce a whitening due to this ,( generally solvent based),This can be a salt residue as the moisture develops under the seal or a whitening to the seal or darkening or patches again to moisture un released, this is then moisture staining, rapid setting is fine but is not rapid moisture release, ideally as above tiles will be body dry- can depend if slips are calibrated or un to moisture issues . If left 2-3 days possible or until full release- I know it's a pain- your time and return visits.

Sorry difficult to comment as I have the lithofin hat on rather than my contractor, advising with the products you may use rather than reality of getting things fitted.
 
O

On one

If you feel happier ,pre seal in many cases I'm sure will be fine, but couldn't recomend, I tend to get a lot of clay/ brick based can produce a whitening due to this ,( generally solvent based),This can be a salt residue as the moisture develops under the seal or a whitening to the seal or darkening or patches again to moisture un released, this is then moisture staining, rapid setting is fine but is not rapid moisture release, ideally as above tiles will be body dry- can depend if slips are calibrated or un to moisture issues . If left 2-3 days possible or until full release- I know it's a pain- your time and return visits.

Sorry difficult to comment as I have the lithofin hat on rather than my contractor, advising with the products you may use rather than reality of getting things fitted.
Thanks for all of the info as to how and why Bob,really appreciate it for you to come on here and give us the benefit of of your knowledge.
Now I know why.....repeat visits won't be a problem.....the job is not time dependant and I can call in on the customer on my way home of an evening.
 
O

On one

Finally got to see the tiles today and they are made of coloured concrete,no problem I suppose.
Next question is regarding the grouting....I have a grout gun that I have used in the past for grouting large format riven floor tiles with varying degrees of success. I just don't think it would be too successful doing this many bricks joints on a wall,so......do you think mixing the grout drier and applying it with a brick iron or pointing trowel could be an option?
 

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Brick Slips advice req
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