Can you check my working out?

[Andrew Case]

Am looking at tiling a kitchen splashback, normal height of about 450mm and about 4 metres, with 10mm travertine.
The walls are a mixture of skimmed plasterboard, bare plasterboard and skimmed render.
I know the weight restrictions of plaster skim etc, and the travertine with adhesive comes to about 26kg/m2, so over the limit.
As it is a small area, of very small height, do you think the weight restriction still applies?
If I was to score all surfaces and prime, what do you think?

P.S this is for a really tough customer....my wife!!

 

[beanz]

In your situation, I personally wouldn't worry about the weight too much.. I think scoring the plaster would only serve to weaken it, but you will need to prime.

 

[Andrew Case]

Thanks beanz
I appreciate your help. Still nervous when it comes to natural stone.

 

[beanz]

It's good to be a little nervous. I wouldn't risk it in a bathroom, where a tile could fall on someone, but a kitchen splash back, in my own house? I'd take the risk, rather that re-do the walls with cement board..

 

[Sean Kelly]

Should not be a problem Andrew. You might curse a few times while cutting around sockets as the travertine could be quite brittle in a few places. Talking of sockets, will your sockets be able to take 10mm tiles plus addy? You might need extra extra long screws! Good luck.

 

[Andrew Case]

Good point.
Have seen a nice slate tile in topps. It's 10mm thick, 30x30. Do you think the same applies? Will be ok?

 

[Sean Kelly]

Andrew, if you are getting the travertine in Topps then it will 'probably' be mostly filler. Slate can also be brittle. It all depends where your electric sockets are, and what the cuts are like. How about a porcelain tile that looks like natural stone?

 

[Andrew Case]

I thought about that but I really hate tile trim. I wanted to leave the edges natural, just butt jointing, except for a little Silicon to hide the adhesive. My sockets fall so that no tile is less than about 150mm. There should be no slivers of tile. Cutting on a wet cutter nice and slow. What you think?

 

[Time's Ran Out]

I'd profile the edges and polish them up.

 

[beanz]

Grout the external butt joint, don't Silicon!

 

[Andrew Case]

How do you think the 10mm slate would hold up being cut around sockets? Having a quick look at it, one of the tiles might fall so that 3/4 of a double socket would need to be cut of out it, in the middle of the height? If that makes sense. In effect, turning the tile into the shape of a letter C
Best way I can describe it
Is there any other way of finishing ceramic or perception without trim? I just think trim with a rustic looking tile wouldn't be good at all

 

[Time's Ran Out]

10mm travertine will be ok to cut around sockets and post9 for finishing the edges.

 

[Andrew Case]

When you say profile the edges? You mean trim?
Do you think the slate wouldn't work around the sockets etc?

 

[beanz]

When he says profile the edges, he's not talking about trim. He means shaping the stone, rounding it off. You won't have the tools for that job, so I think it is a little unrealistic to think you could achieve this.
At the moment, it doesn't sound like you know what you want. Travertine, or slate... Both are do-able, but what the guys are saying, is that if you're using cheaper grade stone, it's more likely to fall to bits when you try to do cut-outs. A lot will depend on IF you know what you're doing, and IF you have the right tools for the job. IMHO you would probably be better off getting a professional in.

 

[Andrew Case]

Thanks beanz
Appreciate all the help
What better way to practice with natural stone than in your own house.
I've ordered several samples so the choice is between travertine and slate. Now I know both can be done, it's just down to the wife to choose which
Thanks again