Centering vs Different Cuts to a Full Tile in a corner?

[sWe]

I have just sat and read through sWe's post. Is this not just standard setting out procedure? It seems to be pretty much in line with what I was taught on my course. Just looks difficult when you try and write it down.

Grumpy

Which is pretty much what I have stated previously; it just looks difficult because of all the text

I wrote this particular approach down, because there's almost always more than one or two ways to solve a problem, some of which are more useful than others. Surely there must be a few tilers out there who at the very least don't understand principles behind this particular approach. Explaining is bound to help someone. Isn't this one of the main points of this forum; sharing knowledge and experience of the trade, even though that which is shared seems obvious to some?


Cheers.

 

[grumpygrouter]

Which is pretty much what I have stated previously; it just looks difficult because of all the text

I wrote this particular approach down, because there's almost always more than one or two ways to solve a problem, some of which are more useful than others. Surely there must be a few tilers out there who at the very least don't understand principles behind this particular approach. Explaining is bound to help someone. Isn't this one of the main points of this forum; sharing knowledge and experience of the trade, even though that which is shared seems obvious to some?


Cheers.

I wasn't being critical of your post sWe, just that looking at some of the other responses, I thought people were maybe looking a bit too deep at what you said. Your input is very valuable as it comes from a completely different perspective to what we normally have. I was only trying to point out that I thought this was standard setting out procedure, the way that I had been taught. Really opening the door for more debate in case others had different methods that they wanted to share. Please don't take my post the wrong way.

Grumpy

 

[sWe]

I wasn't being critical of your post sWe, just that looking at some of the other responses, I thought people were maybe looking a bit too deep at what you said. Your input is very valuable as it comes from a completely different perspective to what we normally have. I was only trying to point out that I thought this was standard setting out procedure, the way that I had been taught. Really opening the door for more debate in case others had different methods that they wanted to share. Please don't take my post the wrong way.

Grumpy

Perhaps I formulated myself as such, but I wasn't ticked off or anything. In fact, what I meant was that I agree with you, but then I probably got a bit caught up in elaborating my thoughts, and my message was obfuscated or something... See, there I go again. :mad2: :lol: So, sorry for shoddy penmanship. My bad.

Cheers.

 

[pendleh]

Thanks for the detailed info it is really appreciated!!

Best Wishes

Howard

 

[sWe]

Thanks for the detailed info it is really appreciated!!

Best Wishes

Howard

You're welcome

 

[mclewley]

Thank you all for your suggestions.

Boz

 

[Frankie]

gauge for me too, topps111

 

[Dave Carr]

I have to say I'm a firm believer in the gauge rod, it's just a great way to visualise the cuts way before you fix them. I always find the centre, offer up the gauge to see what cuts I have, move half a tile if necessary to get a better cut; 10 seconds tops. I don't change joint thicknesses unless that's determined by the customers design.

Different folks, different strokes

Cheers,

Dave

 

[toucan]

very interesting discussion all that - specialising in listed buildings I always cut into the corners because the walls can be way out and you cannot straighten walls with tiles. I just find the centre, whether I use a whole tile centred on the wall, or there is a grout line there depends on what works with the width of the wall as I always try and use the larger part of the tile in the corner so as not to have fiddly little bits. obviously I keep the cuts on each side as nearly the same width as possible, and if things are really wonky I will consider what works at about eye level.