Chip board floor

[smokie899]

hello guys. Doing a small ensuite floor tomorrow just under 3sqm. Went and had a look at it and the floor is spotless as it only had laminate on it before and very solid, but the chip board has a coat of something on it which is clear and has a very smooth finish.
I'm presuming its some kind of moisture barrier.

Normally I would just use backer board on chip board but this is a guy who buys, tarts up and sells house for a quick turnaround and ain't having it no matter what I tell him.
So what is this stuff and will the addy take to it.
Tiles are 300x300 ceramic, 2 part flexi addy & grout.

 

[Andy Allen]

Best to overboard with hardie.
But if needs must I would use bal single part fast flex and bal wide joint grout with GT1 admixture.

 

[smokie899]

Cheers Andy, but any ideas what the other layer on the board is.

 

[hmtiling]

Best to overboard with hardie.
But if needs must I would use bal single part fast flex and bal wide joint grout with GT1 admixture.

Yep, s2 and grout with additive here too if you've got a tight a*** customer

 

[LM]

If it's grey in colour it's more than likely a Weyroc board, the supposed to be weather resistant. I prime them with ARDEX P4 primer and then tile with a rubber crumb adhesive provided the floor is flat and solid, if not secure through to the joist P4, use a fibre reinforced leveller and then tile.

 

[smokie899]

This stuff is transparent and has been put on during manufacture.
Think I might just take an abrasive wheel to it just to key it then prime.
Cheers guys

 

[smokie899]

Found it. It's moisture resistant 22mm chipboard. It has a resin coat on it.
Found a few very old threads on here about it.
But still no mention of the wether the adhesive will take to the resin.

 

[Andy Allen]

Bal fast flex will pretty much stick to anything ....including your clothes, hands etc and it's a pig to get off.!!

 

[Time's Ran Out]

Whatever adhesive you use its going to crack along the joins! The minimum preparation is Bal crack mat or Ditra and that's only if it's a solid floor. As he's telling you what to do I wouldn't touch it - but that's just me!

 

[LM]

Ardex did the spec for my jobs

 

[White Room]

Hardie glued and screwed....

 

[AndY mac]

Take some pride in your work. Tell him to poke his 3m2.

 

[Spare Tool]

Fast flex is over £50 for 12.5kg...on line price anyway, work out nearly same price as hardi and a bag of tm tradeflex...same cost, proper job!!

 

[Flintstone]

Board it properly. Or ask him to ply it

 

[bcd-87]

Best to overboard with hardie.
But if needs must I would use bal single part fast flex and bal wide joint grout with GT1 admixture.

Same !!

 

[One Day]

As Andymac.
Don't do stupid jobs for stupid people.
You'll end up stupid.

 

[smokie899]

Right got to the bottom of it. It's 3 coats of clear yacht varnish.
The main bathroom was done the same 3 years ago and it's solid.
He wants it done so it's getting done with the bal addyou

 

[Flintstone]

Bad man!

 

[Aston]

Right got to the bottom of it. It's 3 coats of clear yacht varnish.
The main bathroom was done the same 3 years ago and it's solid.
He wants it done so it's getting done with the bal addyou

its a risk,
but, if you are going to do it regardless of the possible consequences, then at least try and get some form of signed evidence that you suggested the correct method. that way if there are any future problems, you have some form of back up.

 

[Tile Shop]

its a risk,
but, if you are going to do it regardless of the possible consequences, then at least try and get some form of signed evidence that you suggested the correct method. that way if there are any future problems, you have some form of back up.

Be careful with disclaimers or waivers. They are virtually worthless. If it went wrong and the customer then pays you to do it again properly, congratulations you dodge a bullet. But if they don't agree to pay again and they take it further, a court would look at your disclaimer, and say "We have it in writing that you knew it was wrong, but you did it anyway". Customer approval or not. your chances of talking that one round are slim to none.

If you haven't got a suitable surface to tile onto, you shouldn't tile it. Cover your back and do the prep. If they don't want that, walk away and let someone else carry on.

Although looking at the past posts and times, I guess you've already gone in and done it by now.

 

[Aston]

Disclaimers do not give you total cover BUT they can at least be used as some form of evidence if a failure ends up in court. Obviously if you do something that's deemed as a danger to the customer/public then you ain't got a leg to stand on. If you do a job that could run the risk of failure ie not 100% guaranteed and a client signs to say they accept that risk, then a court 'may' accept that you are working for the client but they are responsible regarding the final decison.

anyway, there are so many variables so it's best to do what I do which is to use a solicitor for law issues and a tiler for tiling.

 

[Stef]

I tiled features in a pub a few years ago, single tiles (600x300) around the bar, I didn't realise there was varnish on the wood & the tiles came off as clean as a whistle.
Had to strip the varnish off & redo it.
I wouldn't tile to that with any adhesive..