Cleaning Victorian Tile Path

Frankenfurter why not answer the original question then ???

Sorry, did I forget to answer the question with "hello [name] welcome to the forum"?

Like all my posts on the subject of period floors, get a professional in this isn't a diy area.
 
Sorry, did I forget to answer the question with "hello [name] welcome to the forum"?

Like all my posts on the subject of period floors, get a professional in this isn't a diy area.


If the Diy man wants to clean his own floor then why not assist? If he or she wanted a pro then they would ask that.
The original question was "Can anyone please advise the best cleaning process / solution for an old victorian (?) outside tile path." and the answer is not get a proffessional in !
So far the only sensible answers, whether you agree or not are from Terry Cottar .
 
Frankenfurter,

I cannot for some reason find your posts to quote however, your post suggests that I am a little man running around with a couple of bottles of Aqua Mix. There is in my mind nothing wrong with that and we still do that because I will never forget where I started but just so you know, we currently have 8 employees and I mean full time on PAYE and that number will be increasing to 10 in the next few weeks as I am currently recruiting. My last 20 or so restoration projects have ranged from £1k uo to £50k there were only 7 under £10k and I am currently doing one for £200k + so I think that makes me fairly major player in the World of restoration and believe it or not, if you don't know what you are doing, you don't get to work for the people I work for because they can spot an amateur from a mile away.

tel
 
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Okay I think we're steering away from my advice of not dwelling sodium hydroxide cleaning agents onto period tiles, something that I have advised in the past, as it is an incorrect method of cleaning clay tiles.

I make no apologies for stating that restoring tiles is a specialist job and requires a professional. No offence to the homeowner but his time and money would be far better spent knowing the work has been undertaken correctly.

I've no real problem with Aqua Mix it has its place, and certainly no problem with your sponsor who sells Aqua Mix; we've done business many many times before he was a sponsor - so don't think I'm here to drag them down, nor do I have the time for that.

Tel while I'm glad to hear you've a successful business and are recruiting more staff, I would hope your using techniques in the natural stone business not on period floors. I'm not really concerned if you are a small or large company, more concerned with the advice you give out as with some authority, usually with a recommendation to a seller on eBay 🙂
 
Just an update on this and to clarify a point for all forum members and guests I spent some time reading the MSDS sheets for HDT&Grout cleaner yesterday and just to be sure I double checked with Aqua Mix "There is NO bleach in Aqua Mix Heavy Duty Tile & Grout Cleaner"

tel
 
Firstly I apologise to the original thread starter for this sway off-course, if you IM I'll personally send instructions how to do the job correctly or if you're within easy reach I'll send someone to explain the process in person; can't be fairer than that.

Terry if you're going to look at datasheets please look for the correct thing, just look at these links off the parent site: contains sodium hydroxide, corrosive and ethylene glycol monobutyl ether for further toxicity. It even says these details on the labels.

Datasheet

MSDS

As far as Aqua Mix is concerned you should dwell for only 3 - 5 minutes if the tiles are without a coating, but this is a generalisation like any product supposedly suitable for a wide range of tiles. Once size doesn't fit all.

Now Terry, I didn't want this to be personal but I have to be honest you are worrying me. If you really are running a professional service at professional rates why are you firstly using a DIY product and more importantly why do you not know what is contained within these products? Calling a rep isn't going to get you real answers, only what you need to hear anyone established in the business will know that.

An MSDS datasheet isn't a list ingredients it only contains what is deemed hazardous or potentially hazardous and it differs from country to country, hence why there's ingredients of the cleaner which are not disclosed.

The ethylene glycol monobutyl ether contained is a hazardous organic solvent and should be treated as toxic, hazardous enough to be on the California restricted chemical list and in many parts of the US you need to inform and train your personnel about the solvent. Which makes even more sense not to be advising the general public to dwell sections of the floor and naturally keep an eye on it, because we don't want it to dry out as we know it will because of the ingredients contained.

All that inhalation of toxic organic solvents; not nice.

Doug I'm sure you're top chap and you're probably thinking you doing a good thing thanking terry for the last post, but really all you doing is condoning the distribution of incorrect information, which only goes toward damaging a forum members tiles. That's not something I would thank. A good forum relies on quality information.
 
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Hello

As I see it, Robsob asked for help with a method of cleaning and restoring this pathway. Terry's provided a comprehensive and pro method of going about it.

I'm interested in Frankfurter's response and would like to know what his method and approach would be ?

We do quite a lot of restoration works within the Victorian Floor field and looking at the photos of Robsob, these tiles look like they are glazed. If this is the case, it may be that a deep clean with a rotary machine with the correct pads and brushes attached will all that is required. [We did some restoration in an old slaughter room - converted to a dinning room and the tiles Robsob has look the same - although we did not know they were glazed until all the crap was removed] If they turn out to be glazed Robsob, then check with Terry Cottar to see what he would use instead of Impregnator to protect the surface as some of these products are not suitable to exterior use. HG Impreg is as well as Mattstone.

So to back up Sir Ramic's request I would like to know how Frankfurter would approach issue, what products he would recommend and how?

I might even learn something.
 
I find that HG impreg can leave a slightly sticky residue no matter how much you buff off..

So LTP mattstone for me..much better product..IMHO.. than HG..
 

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