Cracked conglomerate.

[Gazzer]

i use keraquick often and im sure it says on the bag that its suitable for tiling onto timber etc only if a latex based additive is added to it.

I think it has been upgraded now to allow to use without additives.

 

[Gazzer]

i use keraquick often and im sure it says on the bag that its suitable for tiling onto timber etc only if a latex based additive is added to it.

he hasnt tiled onto timber, He has used 9mm No More Ply tile backer boards.

 

[DHTiling]

kera-quick has always been ok for timber overlays, it is if you want to tile direct to floorboards etc then you upgrade it to an S2 with latex plus.

 

[Gazzer]

Yeah, couldnt remember but you are right Dave.....as usual rrr:

 

[tfs]

A bathroom floor ? Is that a washing machine ? and who chewed the bottoms of the wood units ?

Not much gets past you hawk eye:lol:

 

[simon1]

I'm sure using the mega adhesive the way its directed would leave voids between NMP and floor boards.

i always stick with flexy tile addy and screw

 

[Stewart]

I'm sure using the mega adhesive the way its directed would leave voids between NMP and floor boards.

i always stick with flexy tile addy and screw

Same way for me.....

 

[Sean fsy]

Things like this are getting more common every week, Doesnt seem that any prep work we do is ever enough. especially with granite, conglomerate tiles. i seen a gulfstone tiled floor destroyed the other week £7k worth of damage, the floor had shrank that much.

 

[Colour Republic]

I'm sure using the mega adhesive the way its directed would leave voids between NMP and floor boards.

i always stick with flexy tile addy and screw

it's an expanding adhesive and the boards are really quite strong, there are less voids than screwing ply down, once down there is no way they are coming back up without a lot of damage to either the floor boards of the 'No More Ply' itself

 

[Gazzer]

it's an expanding adhesive and the boards are really quite strong, there are less voids than screwing ply down, once down there is no way they are coming back up without a lot of damage to either the floor boards of the 'No More Ply' itself

I have never had to take one up but I know someone who has and as you say it was a lot of damage to the floor boards. If the floorboards were cupped badly then I would use the SPF adhesive method.

 

[DHTiling]

If voids are underneath then it will flex.. hence why i only use adhesive as the bed for this type of board..

 

[sblunde]

unbalanced washing machine on spin cycle causing excessive vibration in the suspended floor?

 

[alexander]

bedding the backer board in a thin set to act as a packer then screwing down and taping joints. This seems a good idea, as floor boards often not that flat. I was told this method some years ago at the hardy backer board stand at a tile show, but with ring shank nails.

 

[Rich]

plenty of screws used, megastength on back of boards and edges, floor and boards dusted with a damp sponge, no more ply primed with diluted primer G,tiles mostly fixed on a serrated bed with each tile back butered in kera quick grey, grouting in ultra colour and sealed with mp90.

What do you mean by 'tiles mostly fixed on a srrated bed'?

Im pretty sure that NMP dont recommend priming before tiling, a wipe with damp sponge should be enough.

 

[alexander]

What do you mean by 'tiles mostly fixed on a srrated bed'?

Im pretty sure that NMP dont recommend priming before tiling, a wipe with damp sponge should be enough.

"Mosty on a serrated bed" , I mean the floor was quite flat (for a change) and i was able to fix onto just a serrated bed that i trowelled out , with not too much packing out.

No more ply do recommend priming it helps to makes the board water proof!!