M
mean_in_green
'Evening Gents,
Recently joined the forum and have spent the last week trawling through loads of threads here to get my head around the right way to tackle a floor tiling job in my own home. I'm a joiner by trade but can take advice / read instructions / measure accurately and work to fine tolerances. Here's a summary of my observations and plans, with a few questions thrown in too:
30m2 in Polished Porcelain (cream) 600 x 600s. Sample tile is perfectly flat with a 0.5mm bevel. The tile size plans out really nicely through a hall, WC and kitchen leaving only a few small cuts visible.
It's a sand cement screed over a concrete base, forty years old. Previously covered in thermoplastic tiles. I'm intending to use an acrylic primer over the bituminous residue. I've been all over it with an 2,400mm straight edge and level, it's not too bad: +/- 5mm. There was a high spot where an internal wall has been taken out, I took 1,200mm out along the length and re-screeded it and now it's level.
I'm not at all enthusiastic about doing the SLC, but can see that it makes good sense to get it all as level as possible before getting to the next stage so am paying someone to do that bit for me this week.
Do I prime again over the SLC before addy?
Taking from all the good tips I've read, I believe I need a single part flexi powder adhesive and grout appropriate for porcelain. Grout gaps will be 4mm with grey grout planned (would prefer cream but my head says keep it practical in an entrance hallway).
Should I use white adhesive with polished porcelain or is grey perfectly ok?
Will use a 10mm square notched trowel and back butter.
For cutting I have a no name 600 wet saw for which I've ordered continuous rim porcelain wheels from ATS. I used it to do a travertine wet room at our last place and got on with it fine. I'll test cut the sample tile to see what to expect on cut smoothness. I can see that a pro would whip round with a big dry cutter, but I don't mind that it will take a bit longer and it's kit I've already got and am used to.
I plan to clean and seal the tiles before grouting (looking at Fila MP90). How long would you expect non rapid adhesive to take to go off, considering the non-porous substrate and the reasonable size of the porcelains?
I *think* I've got it all covered, but as I really want to just do it once and do it right I hope you don't mind me asking you Pros in case there are any gotchas lurking that I might have missed..?!
Cheers,
Simon
Recently joined the forum and have spent the last week trawling through loads of threads here to get my head around the right way to tackle a floor tiling job in my own home. I'm a joiner by trade but can take advice / read instructions / measure accurately and work to fine tolerances. Here's a summary of my observations and plans, with a few questions thrown in too:
30m2 in Polished Porcelain (cream) 600 x 600s. Sample tile is perfectly flat with a 0.5mm bevel. The tile size plans out really nicely through a hall, WC and kitchen leaving only a few small cuts visible.
It's a sand cement screed over a concrete base, forty years old. Previously covered in thermoplastic tiles. I'm intending to use an acrylic primer over the bituminous residue. I've been all over it with an 2,400mm straight edge and level, it's not too bad: +/- 5mm. There was a high spot where an internal wall has been taken out, I took 1,200mm out along the length and re-screeded it and now it's level.
I'm not at all enthusiastic about doing the SLC, but can see that it makes good sense to get it all as level as possible before getting to the next stage so am paying someone to do that bit for me this week.
Do I prime again over the SLC before addy?
Taking from all the good tips I've read, I believe I need a single part flexi powder adhesive and grout appropriate for porcelain. Grout gaps will be 4mm with grey grout planned (would prefer cream but my head says keep it practical in an entrance hallway).
Should I use white adhesive with polished porcelain or is grey perfectly ok?
Will use a 10mm square notched trowel and back butter.
For cutting I have a no name 600 wet saw for which I've ordered continuous rim porcelain wheels from ATS. I used it to do a travertine wet room at our last place and got on with it fine. I'll test cut the sample tile to see what to expect on cut smoothness. I can see that a pro would whip round with a big dry cutter, but I don't mind that it will take a bit longer and it's kit I've already got and am used to.
I plan to clean and seal the tiles before grouting (looking at Fila MP90). How long would you expect non rapid adhesive to take to go off, considering the non-porous substrate and the reasonable size of the porcelains?
I *think* I've got it all covered, but as I really want to just do it once and do it right I hope you don't mind me asking you Pros in case there are any gotchas lurking that I might have missed..?!
Cheers,
Simon
