DIY Bathroom renovation , looking for a check on my methods

[destix]

Hi , I've been lurking and reading the very helpful information on this site , helping with my bathroom renovation.
But I thought I would put my planned methods here to see if anyone wants to give an opinion on it.

Started a re-grout of my bathroom which is from the previous owners and was a mess with grout over the tiles etc, and bought a multitool to rake the grout out

That hasn't gone so well and has turned into a full strip out lol , as some of the tiles came off and I wasn't happy with how well the existing tiles were fixed (tubbed addy)

Anyway I've bought new 600x300 porcelain tiles for the walls , and 12mm hardiebacker to replace the plasterboard on the walls
One wall is the outer wall and is rendered/plastered , with a window in the middle
should I strip that back to the block and fix hardiebacker with adhesive and wall plugs/screws?

Also the floor is 18mm chipboard and is in good condition , I may however cut a trap below the radiator to alter the pipes for a new towel radiator , which I will probably repair with 18mm ply
should I then just fix 6mm hardi over the top and tile?
I haven't decided on tiles for the floor , but possibly a galaxy granite or quartz

Would also appreciate recommendations on adhesive to use , bearing in mind I have no trade account , although I may try to spoof a topps account as I'm an electrician

Thanks for any help
Mark

 

[mache]

Hi, just an observation regarding hardie against the outside wall. You should think about insulation in my opinion. I did something similar. I stripped back to block and then battened the wall. This allowed me to fit celotex insulation between the battens then I hardie backered on to those battens. You may consider the same or use something like marmox insulated cement boards. I went the batten route because I had some pipe runs to sit behind the tiles.

 

[destix]

Thanks for the reply , any reason for the insulation board behind the hardie ?
Also should I batten out my wall too?
I wont have any pipe runs to go behind it.
Could I fix the hardie to the wall without removing the skim?
Thanks
Mark

 

[mache]

Thanks for the reply , any reason for the insulation board behind the hardie ?
Also should I batten out my wall too?
I wont have any pipe runs to go behind it.
Could I fix the hardie to the wall without removing the skim?
Thanks
Mark

Hi Mark, I should have clarified. Mine was a DIY job in my own property and this is not my progression. I chose to insulate because I have three outside walls(extension on back of house). The insulation was to help prevent heat loss during winter. If your outside wall is poorly insulated and gets cold in winter then the tiles are going to act ask a heat sink and be as cold if direct fitted. I wanted to avoid this to prevent excess condensation forming on then after showering. I am happy how it has worked for me, it might be something for you to consider. The reason I stripped back to block was the original plastering had been allover the place regarding levels. Took me half a day with an SDS to strip it off so not a big problem for me.
Regards
Martin

 

[Bouba]

Hi,
Agree with Mache. Also make sure you use thin bed adhesive behind hardie boards,in addition to your screws to hold

 

[Bouba]

Hi,
Agree with Mache. Also make sure you use full bed adhesive behind hardie boards,in addition to your screws to hold it down.

50mmx50mm treated batons with 50mm celotex will make a huge difference.

 

[destix]

I was thinking about using 25mm batons and 25mm kingspan , I hadn't thought about using treated batons
I've now stripped the wall back to the block.
I assume you mean to use an adhesive bed behind the hardie for the floor?
not on the walls when its screwed to studs/batons ?

Also since I have to cut a trap in the chipboard floor, clean the old adhesive off and screw down for deflection , that I may as well take I all out and replace with plywood
standard ply overboarded with 6mm hardie?
18mm or 22mm ply?
Thanks everyone , I'd hate to not get it right lol

 

[destix]

Do you mean adhesive behind the hardie on the floor?
Or behind the hardie on the studs/batons?

I now have the wall stripped back to the block , I was thinking 25mm batons and 25mm cellotex?

Think I will also replace the chipboard floor , would 18mm ply overboarded with 6mm hardie be enough?
or 25mm ply ?
House was built 8 years ago , joists 400mm centres

 

[destix]

I've now completed the walls, taking my sweet time, a day here and there when I've got time.

About to start my floor, which I've replaced all the chipboard, put in noggins and laid 18mm wbp, I primed the underside and sides to seal.

I was stuck with 18mm as that was the size of the chipboard and it ran under 2 stud walls, had to run the new ply under the walls to keep proper support.

I will be tiling with wood effect porcelain tiles 90cm x 15cm
How should I further prep my floor?
Should I overlay with 6mm hardiebacker or should I lay something like ditra mat, or both?
Thanks

 

[macten]

6mm hardi laid on adhesive (use a 6mm trowel) and screwed.
Tile away!!

 

[John Benton]

Don't forget to run a 2m straight edge across the floor in all directions. If you're laying 90x15cm then your floor needs to be perfectly level. Also check that tiles are not bowed. If they are AND your floor is out of level you will have more lip page than Mick Jagger

 

[White Room]

Posted about 8 months ago, may have finished by now

 

[macten]

Posted about 8 months ago, may have finished by now

He hasn't - he's starting the floor now

 

[Chalker]

That is some first fix time. 18 months!

 

[John Benton]

That is some first fix time. 18 months!

Just checking for leaks, can't be too careful

 

[White Room]

That is some first fix time. 18 months!

Bugger, I didn't think my maths was that bad

 

[destix]

That is some first fix time. 18 months!

I hang my head in shame, it's actually been about 2 years!

All I can offer are half hearted excuses
Might get it done for Xmas now the walls are done.

If I overboard with hardiebacker then tile, should I use an elastomeric adhesive, an S2 or just standard flexi?
Thanks

 

[macten]

Standard flexi is what I use but you can even use a non flexi. The adhesive is there just to fill voids, it's the screws that provide the mechanical anchor.

 

[SJPurdy]

Standard flexi is what I use but you can even use a non flexi. The adhesive is there just to fill voids, it's the screws that provide the mechanical anchor.

Macten's answer is for the adhesive underneath the Hardie boards.
To stick the porcelain tiles down on top of the Hardie board then use a flexi adhesive.
The overboarded floor must be rigid and free from deflection before tiling.