DIY man needs some help

[Honest Jon]

Hi all and thanks in advance for any advise.

I am not a professional and if I am stealing trade secrets please just advise me and I will go away. I am a competent DIY person and can offer advice on many other subjects that come up from time to time. I read a number of topics earlier. You can see a little more in my introduction where I said hello. Anyway.

I am about to tear out my en suite and redo everything, I will be tiling the walls and floors and my first question is regarding the floors.

Do I need to put down ply? I have 22mm moisture resistant T&D chipboard flooring, which is well laid and fixed with ring nails, I will further secure with screws when I remove the current wood flooring, It is solid and is only a small area. I do not mind putting down ply as it is a 30 minute job but would like to know if it is required and if so why? What would the alternative be as far as priming the area, and if this is likely to be more time consuming I will lay ply. What thickness if it is required.
Thanks for the help.
John

 

[DHTiling]

Hi john.

As long as you have screwed/secured the chipboard then i would use 6mm hardi backer overlay and then tile with flexi adhesive/grout.

IMO chipboard itself isn't stable enough to tile directly to...other fixers might but i don't.. the hardi cement boards create a great substrate for bonding too..

 

[faithhealer]

As above, saw dave was reading it and knew he can type faster than me lol

 

[Honest Jon]

Thanks Dave, does this come off the shelf in places like Topps Tiles? Is it in pieces or boards?
J

 

[Honest Jon]

Sorry can you also advise how it is fixed as if i have to lay this on something similar to tile adhesive then the job will slow down a lot.
J

 

[DHTiling]

You can get it at topps...thier board sizes are slightly smaller but ok...1200x 800 i think they are...I get mine from ctd and they are 1500 x 900...

You put a 4mm to 6mm bed of adhesive under the boards and then screw them down....nice and solid....then just wipe the boards with a sponge to remove surface dust, no priming required..

 

[Honest Jon]

Is it not better to put down ply or is it not as good, cos it will certainly be quicker!
John

 

[Honest Jon]

I am also supporting AFD as an ex member, well done for highlighting this Dave.
John

 

[DHTiling]

Ply is ok but min of 12mm IMHO....And different prep work..

 

[Honest Jon]

As a complete novice I have to ask.
Why would fixing hardi backer work better than fixing the tiles to the same surface as the hardi backer is fixed to? Is it the same adhesive?
John

 

[DHTiling]

Because the hardi backer is screwed down john...won't look good if you screw the tiles down...:smilewinkgrin:

 

[Honest Jon]

prep for ply only calls for a coat on the reverse and sides if I am not mistaken, althought again I have never been asked to do this by any tiler I have employed.
J

 

[DHTiling]

prep for ply only calls for a coat on the reverse and sides if I am not mistaken, althought again I have never been asked to do this by any tiler I have employed.
J

You are correct , you have to use SBR....as for the tilers you have employed....:ninja: pass..

 

[Honest Jon]

so guys I need to ask, and I know impatience and tiling are not good bedfellows, but.
What would you do? hardi and sacrifice the time or ply and start tiling immediately it is laid? Cutting it is not a problem! B&Q do it for nothing as it is a perfect rectangle.
John

 

[DHTiling]

John..you can tile on hardi as soon as you lay it....

Here is the PDF installation instructions for it...

 

[grumpygrouter]

Would be Hardie for me too!

 

[pete f]

jon listen to daves advice and go down the backer board route you asked for advice the advice you have been given is spot on

 

[doug boardley]

Because the hardi backer is screwed down john...won't look good if you screw the tiles down...:smilewinkgrin:

pmsl, sorry John, but I was cringing when I was reading down the posts and saw your question that Dave answered to,noi

 

[diamondtiling]

john, take the man's advice friend, he has spelt it out exactly as it says on the tin, backer boards do not rot, they are impervious to water, they are quick and easy to fit, they are quicker to fit than ply, trust him, he's the tile doctor

 

[White Room]

More of a surgeon me thinks:smilewinkgrin:

 

[faithhealer]

I used to 'ply', but with cheaper backerboard these days, and a lot quicker to cut than ply, and the height diff, I only use backerboard now

 

[Honest Jon]

Thanks everyone, Hardi it is. I asked because I wanted to do it correctly, to ignore the advise would have made the question pointless. I will be starting over the weekend and will let you know how I got on.
I initially thought the Hardi was just stuck down and that was why I questioned why it would have made a better fix. Crystal clear now and thanks again.
John

 

[faithhealer]

look forward to hearing how you got on!

 

[smurf21]

no point to this reply really as its been answered with sound advice already....but i need the posts numbers up..lol....Backer board everytime although my personal pref is "NO MORE PLY" 6mm coated with sbr its fully waterproof so will never break down if it gets wet unlike ALL TIMBERS..

 

[Honest Jon]

OK guys
Cat amongst the birdies now..... I have been advised by my next Door neighbour to fix wall tiles with "Silicon" he says it is brilliant and really quick, which I know it would be. Comments??
John