Dot And Dabbing At Its Best.

[Italy]

sorry for adding my six pence late
looking at the pictures , the tiles seem to be of a brown/biscuit and in my experience, these tiles are a nightmare to fix, fix a tile on and let it stay for a minute, pull it off and adhesive has stuck to the tile.
put it back on let it stay on for 15 minutes and pull it off again and the tile comes off clean, no adhesive on it at all!!
I've taken to priming the back of these types of tiles, also spreading adhesive on both wall and tile.
while dot and dabbing is professionally ok. to do and if the there's a problem you'll never win a battle saying that the tiles were properly stuck.

I still think that I am wrong I work 🙁

 

[david mccullough]

sorry for hijacking this thread. can i ask for opinions out there on laying slate, years ago i was laying 1-2 kitchen floors a week in slate , and with variations of 1/2 inch of thickness i D&D all of these floors , and never had a single callback using this method, if i'd solid filled those floors i would have only got about 1.5 m2 to 20kg bag of adhesive over here in N.Ireland people wouldn't have paid the extra

 

[dave l and l]

maybe self level room.or run it slightly of the level.
there must be plenty big voids under the floor tiles, especially slate as it can be quite soft

 

[Flintstone]

In the real world, and when working on old houses and refurb bathrooms for builders etc, you get bad walls and your gonna need to build them out in places which means adding some dabs! I always use the notch trowel on the wall and butter the back of the tile if dabs are neeeed, add them to the tile. You can't do no more. But there is a limit ofcourse

 

[Flintstone]

Same on floors and walls

 

[WetSaw]

Loads of the apartments thrown up over here just have one big blob of mortar and their butted up, no grout gap. Loads of failures now!

 

[david mccullough]

just to clarify the floors were usually level, and the slate tiles were usually 300x300 and with up to 1/2 difference in thickness i didn't sort through the tiles, laying all thick tiles together same with thin tiles, also D&D was each corner and one in the centre so not too big a gap between dabs, also the thin tiles were bedded up so the overall top surface was flat, no trips, with at around 15mm joints, the Chinese didn't always cut their tiles the same size or square

 

[EdinTiler]

Hi Dave. Trouble is that d&d is like using a hosepipe in the wind, it's always going to come back at you at some point. Especially with ufh. I screed over the top of ufh as a matter of coarse. As for the tiles, if you're using an adhesive that's appropriate and can be bedded up with manufacturers recommendations then he should have had no need to d&d. I use an adhesive that lets me bed up to 20mm on floors and I wouldn't have thought that there'd be that much of a discrepancy between the tiles.
Also, if the ufh has been turned on too soon after insulation then this can cause similar problems. Again, adhesive manufacturers recommendations should have been read prior to installation. All sortable though so that's good.
EdinTiler.
Cheers

 

[Italy]

Who can explain to me the meaning of D & D?
thanks

 

[peteablard]

Who can explain to me the meaning of D & D?
thanks

4 or 5 blobs of adhesive on the back of a tile then fix in place, known as dot and dab or d & d