Dry cutting porcelain tiles

[Fraser Tiling]

I'm fixing about 90 metres of 10mm 800x800 porcelain tiles at the moment, using a Rubi Tx 1200 cutter.
As per usual with large format porcelain, getting clean consistent cuts is very hit and miss.
Decided to change my normal 22mm wheel for a bearinged version to see if that made any difference.
As expected, little changed.
Generally, as a rule I have ever only scored once, some tiles responding better to a light score, others with a heavier score.
Having no decent results with either, i tried scoring 4-5 times with heavy pressure and seem to get much better results.
Just wondering if anyone else is doing the same?

 

[One Day]

Sigma 3P2K
...and all your troubles are over! I promise.

 

[Fraser Tiling]

You say that, but seen other posts saying the Sigma is just as inconsistent.

 

[Italy]

it begins again

 

[Old Mod]

it begins again

It never goes away, Antonio, EVER!
The results are still the same.

 

[Andy Allen]

Is Ray a samurai.....

 

[One Day]

You say that, but seen other posts saying the Sigma is just as inconsistent.

It depends also on the tile. All i can guarantee is that there are far fewer tiles sigma can't cut cleanly than the large rubis.
Only porcelain I've ever been unable to cut cleanly was a glass topped, pillow edged fanal.

 

[AndY mac]

I know what you mean impish I had a similar glass topped tile on the sigma would not break on the handle only way I could snap it was fisting it on the cutter bed.

 

[Italy]

It never goes away, Antonio, EVER!
The results are still the same.

you want me to, you start to blaspheme?

 

[Saltire69]

Use 8mm scoring wheel. its all to do with the cutting wheels. 8mm flat porc, 10mm slightly riven and 18mm for heavier riven tiles.

 

[Fraser Tiling]

Have had 8mm in the past, will try them again.
Thanks.

 

[macten]

I always seem to get better results using the 8mm wheel for every tile.

 

[One Day]

Why do you need to change wheel sizes with Rubi? Sigma has just one.

 

[Rizzle from the Portizzle]

the problem with cutting large format on your knees on the floor is even balance and stress point load stutter for a mirco second and you point load your tile break and it shards off at the point of extra load over stretch and you point load .you need to cut your tile in one even scribe . put your cutter on a bench at waist height and move with the scribe its hard to do on your knees behind the tile but easy when you are level with your tile and can can move with the scribe

 

[One Day]

the problem with cutting large format on your knees on the floor is even balance and stress point load stutter for a mirco second and you point load your tile break and it shards off at the point of extra load over stretch and you point load .you need to cut your tile in one even scribe . put your cutter on a bench at waist height and move with the scribe its hard to do on your knees behind the tile but easy when you are level with your tile and can can move with the scribe

Absolutely. When we're cutting anything over 600mm it's time to invest in a decent bench.
I use 1 or 2 keter work tables at the moment.