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I always seem to get better results using the 8mm wheel for every tile.
 
the problem with cutting large format on your knees on the floor is even balance and stress point load stutter for a mirco second and you point load your tile break and it shards off at the point of extra load over stretch and you point load .you need to cut your tile in one even scribe . put your cutter on a bench at waist height and move with the scribe its hard to do on your knees behind the tile but easy when you are level with your tile and can can move with the scribe
 
the problem with cutting large format on your knees on the floor is even balance and stress point load stutter for a mirco second and you point load your tile break and it shards off at the point of extra load over stretch and you point load .you need to cut your tile in one even scribe . put your cutter on a bench at waist height and move with the scribe its hard to do on your knees behind the tile but easy when you are level with your tile and can can move with the scribe

Absolutely. When we're cutting anything over 600mm it's time to invest in a decent bench.
I use 1 or 2 keter work tables at the moment.
 
I use my Dewalt stand with a custom made piece of slotted plywood!
At a certain age getting down is not a dance move so a good work height and correct cutting action is a necessity.
Also my trusty Rubi.
 
Screenshot_2016-08-21-12-25-19.png
 

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Dry cutting porcelain tiles
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