Discuss easiest trade in the Canada Tile Advice area at TilersForums.com.

Tony73

TF
Arms
70
1,233
acton w3, london
Hi all, could't find thread, we were talking about easiest trades :incazzato:. Anyway here i did some work today (not tiling) :8:.

Prepare walls, prime with wall paper adhesive and let it dry.
Hang lining paper and let it dry
prime walls (on top of lining paper) and let it dry
mastic all internal corners
hang wall paper
:thumbsup:
DSC_0839.jpg DSC_0840.jpg DSC_0841.jpg DSC_0842.jpg DSC_0843.jpg DSC_0845.jpg
on last picture, internall corner was soooo bad (about 35mmm out). And hmmmm ..... no mitred corners :prrr:
 

Tony73

TF
Arms
70
1,233
acton w3, london
i used "solvite" wallpaper adhesive (allways used it i know it's good and don't want to try any other). If you didn't prime walls before lining, when hanging lining paper, walls would suck adhesive inn quicker then it would sink in to paper. ( so most likely you would find liningpaper on the floor the next day) . I know some decorators don't do liningpaper before wallpaper, but to me it's wrong. :thumbsup: And i love doin wall paper, as you need skill for that. I have five bedrooms to do in this house. And i tiled all bathrooms there too ( posted some pictures some time ago)
DSC_0672.jpg DSC_0675.jpg DSC_0676.jpg DSC_0673.jpg
 
C

Colour Republic

So you sized the walls with watered down wallpaper paste instead of primed them. If you had of primed them with a dedicated wallpaper primer then you could of achieved the reduced draw of the wall but you also would have made it easier and cheaper for the wallpaper to be removed at a later date as the primer would have protected the wall and you'd have a much better chance of being able to remove the wallpaper paste completely so it could be painted again in the future without the need for extensive prep.

Your choice of wallpaper paste was because you'd used it before without problem (was is powdered solvite or ready mixed? if ready mixed yellow or red lid?) and I assume wasn't to do with consideration of the type of paper you were hanging, so the stength of the paste, its water content, it's PH value or the fact it could have been cellulose/pva/wheat... based and how any of the factors could have reacted with the type of paper or the method it was printed by.

Still not sure your reasons for lining, was it because it was a woven paper rather than a non woven? Did you use it to sort out lumps and bumps in the wall or did you line the walls to combat seam shrink? Or maybe you used it to give the wall a uniform colour to stop strong colours showing through the wallpaper? Could it be you used a liner because you wanted it to draw away the paste moisture away from the finish paper so the delicate print didn't stain? or you used it to reduce surface tension on the substrate you were papering so the wallpaper stays in place far longer and doesn't curl at the seams??? It could have been for any one of those reason, a few or all...

Colour Republic | Why use lining paper | Wallpaper

Without knowing the type of paper it was printed on, the method of printing and the type of ink used to print it's hard to say if you've done a good job or not. It certainly looks good enough even though in your last picture the right hand wallpaper is 10-15mm higher than the left wall ;)

brighton_pier_mural_wallpaper_after_l.jpg



jannelli_e_volpi_glass_beaded_wallpaper_2l.jpg



jannelli_e_volpi_glass_beaded_wallpaper_3l.jpg



paperhangingafterl.gif



office_mural_wallpaper_decorators_l.jpg


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[video=youtube;3YEwi9SFH8g]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3YEwi9SFH8g[/video]
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Tony73

TF
Arms
70
1,233
acton w3, london
it was powder solvite. And there is many reasons for lining paper. And my wall paper is not higher :lol:, i used laser level to start and on the corner. I took that last picture from closer, so you guys would see that walls are out one wall by 15mm, other by 35mm). House is very old (used to be pub) so ceilings and walls are all over the place.

And nice pictures CR :thumbsup:. Did you do that?
 
T

The Legend; Phil Hobson RIP

I think any trade can be learned/taught. How long this takes is another matter, This goes back to the old argument of the validity of the short courses. A person who is suited to manual work may get a good grounding in the very basics of a trade, but they will face a mammoth task to become a master of their chosen craft.

There is a huge void between a tradesman who has the basic skills, compared to a master craftsman who knows his trade inside out, a true craftsmam can do any job, anywhere in the world. Just my take on the dilution of skills.
 
C

charlie1

I think any trade can be learned/taught. How long this takes is another matter, This goes back to the old argument of the validity of the short courses. A person who is suited to manual work may get a good grounding in the very basics of a trade, but they will face a mammoth task to become a master of their chosen craft.

There is a huge void between a tradesman who has the basic skills, compared to a master craftsman who knows his trade inside out, a true craftsmam can do any job, anywhere in the world. Just my take on the dilution of skills.

Good point phil and i agree, a true craftsman given the resourses can create something extra special where as a tradsman is limited to his / her skills and imagination. A good tradesman can cover most problems that come there way in day to day life without stressing , they dont need to have a passion for it, its just what they know through years of experience where as guys like yourself and some others on here, have tried different things and broadened there knowllage by stretching themselves in different aspects of there trade driven by a passion for it. However, it has occured to me, do people realise the extra precision the craftsman goes to? In some cases not, for example tling a normal bathroom, a good tradsman and a proper craftsman will do a very similar looking job in most cases to the un trained eye of joe public.
 
C

charlie1

I did alot of wall paper , but still learning. Same with tiles :thumbsup:. And hope i'll get some tips/advice about hanging wall paper even here :smilewinkgrin:


I have no interest in hanging wallpaper but looking at some of colour R's work then i have to admit, impressive results can be achieved with paper but its just like everything else, it takes years of experience and curiosity about the trade to get any good at it...tiling will do for me lol!
 
C

Colour Republic

And my wall paper is not higher :lol:, i used laser level to start and on the corner. I took that last picture from closer, so you guys would see that walls are out one wall by 15mm, other by 35mm). House is very old (used to be pub) so ceilings and walls are all over the place.

I get that the walls are out of plumb but your floor must be running out hugely for it to drop by 15mm over such a short distance

tony.jpg

I'm not trying to bust your balls over it as the jobs look good but wallpapering is far from easy. Just because most people can do a half decent job of a bumpy whites splashback doen't mean they can tile a stone bathroom with mitred or profiled edges.

The pictures above are just a few of ours and I hang wallpaper from £15 a roll to hundreds of pounds a meter, but even the cheap wall coverings still get a great deal of care and attention in making sure the job is spec'd to the correct standards.

This is one i'm doing in a few months, works out about £130 a sqm (trade!), believe me it is a whole world away from from a wallpaper you could pick up in B&Q

pj1.jpg


pj2.jpg
 
C

Colour Republic

What paste do you use ?

What for the gold paper?

It was a PH balanced wheat based paste (ready mixed)

The problem with metallic woven papers is that you need to control the amount of moisture in the paper. The paper backing will expand at a greater rate than the metallic printed surface making the paper curl as soon as it is pasted. By using a PH balanced (will not stain the print either from getting on the front or by seeping through from the backing paper) wheat based (has lower water content than other types of paste) it becomes easier to hang. The lining paper was needed so it drew out the paste and set the seams quicker (this wouldn't have happened if we sized the liner after it was installed, it is much better to leave it unsized as you reduced some of it's properties by doing so), the paste can also get a much better bond to the lining than if it was applied directly to a plaster wall. Also the liner reduced the tension on the wall itself. That paper is still under tension today as it is still trying to shrink back to it's pre expanded state. Over time the paint it was stuck to would have failed and the paper split at the seams, the lining paper also works in a similar way to a decoupling membrane (although not in exactly the same way), so no split seams even 10 years later.

There is nothing wrong with solvite packet paste but it is only suited to certain types of paper, we use it for maybe 1 in 10 papers we hang.
 

Dan

Admin
Staff member
5,081
1,323
Staffordshire, UK
Just going off topic a min here, but CR, you could do with swapping this page titles around so Colour Republic is at the end, and the actual page title for the page is at the start.

So Colour Republic | Harlequin Oriana metallic gold Wallpaper | Installation
Could do with reading Harlequin Metallic Gold Wallpaper Installation | Colour Replublic

It should always be 'Page Title | Category | Website Name'

That is all. Carry on.
 
C

Colour Republic

I think it is safe to say Colour R is very passionate about hanging paper.. :).. nice pics Rob..


You know what Dave I'm passionate about all building works I get involved in kitchens bathrooms and decoration are the 3 main areas of my work and I could talk ******** about all of them for hours. I'm just very lucky that I really enjoy what I do.
 

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