Encaustic cement tiles - general help.

[ryan83]

Hi everyone,

Ive got a small w/c floor job starting soon. The customer has ordered encaustic cement tiles such as the type found on this web site
Encaustic cement tiles manufacturer, traditional European floor tiles from the XX century. Mosaic Tiles

Ive never laid this type of tile before and i was just wondering if there is anything i should be careful of and wanted to ask a couple of questions.

On that website it states that they should be laid on a screed of self leveling but by the time i sheet the floor and screed there would be quite severe height issues, ie there will be quite a large step into the bathroom.

Would it be ok to lay on to screwed and well bonded ply?

I understand that these tiles are also very absorbant so i planned on mixing up a flexible rapid set slightly wetter (loose) than normal and back butter. Would this be the best way to go?

I normally use bal superflex grout for the majority floors i lay, would this be safe? And should I seal before or after grouting. Or both?


Thanks in advance for this. This customer has used and recommended me alot over the years and Id hate for a 3m2 floor to put an end to that!

Cheers, Ryan.

 

[ryan83]

Hi again,

If nothing else could anyone even advise if these tiles can go down on ply?

Thanks, Ryan.

 

[White Room]

Never used them but check out the search button at the top right hand side of the page.

 

[Time's Ran Out]

Ryan - imagine blotting paper and that is the surface of the encaustic tile. Do not touch the face of the tile with anything other than a soft dusting brush and immediately impregnate with at least 2 coats of seal (making sure it's fully soaked in within 10 mins). If you try to clean the surface with a sponge and clean water prior to sealing it will dry patchy. If you fix and grout before sealing you will ruin the tiles.
As for fixing treat as other thick handmade tiles using solid bed method with the adhesive to manufacturers recommended consistency , however I'd suggest a uncoupling membrane over the plywood.
Have fun.

 

[ryan83]

Hi timeless John,

Thanks very much you've covered everything I was unsure of. I was a bit unsure about this job but quite looking forward to it now, something different.

Thanks, again.

 

[ryan83]

Whitebeam thanks for your reply. I had already done a search but I couldn't find anything too concise.

cheers.

 

[Terrazzo Tiles]

Hi Ryan,

I'm sorry if this info is too late for you, but it might help others or if you come across this issue in the future.

We agree with Timless John - If you must lay these tiles on to ply, then we would recommend that you use some form of movement matting (ie DITRA) to reduce stress on the tile due to movement.

The following contains some of our general installation recommendations for encaustic / cement tiles. Please don't hesitate to get in touch if you need any further assistance.

Best regards,

Terrazzo Tiles


Installation

PRECAUTIONS
· Cement tiles have nuances in design and colour. All tiles will not be identical. This is a result of the hand-crafted
production process and the nature of cement. Mixing tiles from different boxes during setting is suggested to
produce a beautiful naturally rich appearance
· The tiles are unsealed raw cement. They can be easily stained until they are appropriately sealed. Try to avoid
walking on the raw tiles or handling with dirty hands. In between procedures, protect the tiles from foot traffic. If
walking on the tiles is essential, then we would recommend covering with cardboard (as opposed to plastic
which inhibits drying).
· Always test sealing products on a single tile before applying to the entire floor.
· Do not make unnecessary pencil marks on the tiles as they may be impossible to remove after.
· Tiles will expand and contract in different temperatures. We recommend the use of DITRA matting or a similar
product and/or expansion joints to prevent any cracking in your tiles.
· If you are tiling any surfaces that will be coming into direct contact with water you must ensure that the
substrate is absolutely waterproof, especially if it is sensitive to water like wood or plaster.

LAYOUT
· Before installation, lay out at least one row of tiles (without adhesive) in each direction to see if any adjustments
need to be made. You may need to shift the layout to balance the border tiles from the wall.
· Mark guidelines using a chalk line to suit your layout.

FIXING THE TILES
· Prepare a level floor surface with concrete or self-levelling cement – please consult an experienced tiling
professional if laying onto a wooden floor as this kind of substrate may be subject to movement and/or
deformation.
· Ensure that the substrate is dry so that there is no danger of humidity evaporating through the tiles which can
leave traces of nitrate.
· Examine all tiles for damage.
· Prepare the adhesive following manufacture guidelines.
· Unsealed cement is very absorbent so PRE-WETTING THE BACK SIDE OF THE TILES PRIOR TO SETTING
is required. Briefly dip the tiles in water (1-3 seconds) and let the excess drip away. Avoid letting the tiles sit in
water for long periods.
· Spread the adhesive on the surface to be tiled using a notched trowel, working in areas of 0.2 – 0.5m2. Also
apply adhesive to the back of the tile. Make sure that the whole surface of the tile is in contact with the
adhesive.
· Carefully hand-press each tile. DO NOT USE A HAMMER OR RUBBER MALLET as this can cause microcracks
to appear or even break the tile.
· Lay the tiles almost edge to edge with as narrow a grout line as possible (traditionally 1mm). Generally, cement
tiles are set abutted to one another with a small grout line. The only exception is for outdoor use or designs
where a client may prefer a wider grout joint. In our opinion, the finer the joint, the more elegant the result.
· Adjust each tile in relation to each other to maintain levels taking care to align them correctly, following your
chalk line guide.
WE DO NOT RECOMMEND THE PLACEMENT OF THESE TILES ONTO FRESH MORTAR OR
COMPACTED SAND-CEMENT AS THIS WILL ALMOST ALWAYS RESULT IN UNEVEN TILES WHICH
WILL EVENTUALLY COME LOOSE OR CRACK.
· Avoid getting adhesive on the surface of the tile as this can lead to staining.
· Once set, leave the tiles to stand for 12-15 hours until dry.

PREPARATION BEFORE 1st COAT OF SEALANT
· Once the adhesive has cured, check the tiles for any surface dirt or dried adhesive, removing any blemishes
with a razor blade or lightly sanding with waterproof sandpaper (No. 600), taking care not to scratch the surface.
DO NOT USE ACID, VINIGAR OR BLEACH.
· ALLOW TILES TO DRY COMPLETELY. If the tiles are sealed or waxed when wet it can result in ‘ghosting’
under the sealant and can impede evaporation.
· Whilst the tiles are drying, protect the tiles from all foot traffic.

SEALING – 1st COAT
· Make sure that the tiles are completely dry (at least 24 hours after having been set) and that they are
completely clean before applying the first coat of sealant (we recommend Lithofin Stainstop MN).
· Apply the sealant as per manufacturer’s guidelines. (NB Some tiles are more porous than others – test the
sealant as a first coat on a spare tile.)
· Protect the tiles from foot traffic whilst the sealant is drying (minimum 24 hours)
GROUTING
· IMPORTANT: Do not use dark tinted grout. This can stain your tiles. Test your grout first on a spare tile.
· BEFORE grouting, make sure that the sealant has cured completely.
· Mix the grout to a slightly runny consistency.
· Apply the grout over square metre areas using a grout float or squeegee. Repeat in 30 minutes if using a very
thing consistency.
· Clean off excess from the face of the tile using a soft sponge and water. Avoid removing inset grout by wiping
across the tile at an angle to the grout line.
· Leave the grout to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.

SEALING – 2nd COAT
· After the grout has dried, make sure that the tiles are completely clean and free from any grout residue.
· Apply the second coat of sealant, taking care to ensure that you wipe away any excess. The best finish is
achieved by applying the sealant in small amounts.
· Protect the tiles from foot traffic whilst the second coat is drying (minimum 24 hours)

OPTIONAL 3rd COAT of SEALANT
· If you have been using Lithofin Stainstop MN as the impregnator/ sealant for this tile, we also recommend the
use of Lithofin Multiseal as a final top coat. This sealant will give the tile a slight satin sheen but it will greatly
assist in keeping the tiles clean for regular maintenance. Apply as per manufacturer’s guidelines.

 

[Spud]

cement encaustic is are classed as hydraulic tiles these tiles have been in production in spain and north africa for centuries and can be installed on to mortar beds if the correct methods are used

 

[Protilers]

I did an encaustic over ply recently......here is the link:

Installing encaustic tiles over ply

and strangely enough......my next job is encaustics!!!!!...........

all the best

Lee

 

[Terrazzo Tiles]

Hey Gary, nice to meet you today... It was you wasn't it?? Yes, they can be installed onto mortar beds and this is the traditional method, but definitely requires skill (hence we don't advise it on our laying instructions to private clients) ...

Id be interested to hear about the process though... I imagine that the main difficulty is levelling and alignment?

Dan

Terrazzo Tiles

encaustic-tiles London

 

[Spud]

Hi Dan ,it was nice to meet you too we are working right beside your shop and you truly have some stunning stuff on display and a massive choice of encaustic tiles

 

[Eduardo]

Hey Gary, nice to meet you today... It was you wasn't it?? Yes, they can be installed onto mortar beds and this is the traditional method, but definitely requires skill (hence we don't advise it on our laying instructions to private clients) ...

Id be interested to hear about the process though... I imagine that the main difficulty is levelling and alignment?

Dan

Terrazzo Tiles

encaustic-tiles London

The most important is have the correct density of mortar beds, and exposure time.

 

[The Legend; Phil Hobson RIP]

cement encaustic is are classed as hydraulic tiles these tiles have been in production in spain and north africa for centuries and can be installed on to mortar beds if the correct methods are used

Exactly Gary, encaustic and geometric tiles were traditionally fixed on mortar beds originally sometimes sand and cement known as compo, the mix was soft a bit like the consistency a brickie would use, tiles were beaten into the wet pre-leveled screed using a piece of 3"x 2" timber.

Mix ratio was 3:1, a far cry from our 4:1 semi-dry plus slurry we use today. Ironically some of these old floors are still with us 100yrs/150yrs later. I wonder how many floors laid today will stand the test of time?

 

[Eduardo]

I'm sorry that no longer uses this system.Is the best way to fix floors,clean tools, clean clothes,the end result is much better than adhesives.

 

[MikeJP]

Hi Ryan,

I'm sorry if this info is too late for you, but it might help others or if you come across this issue in the future.

We agree with Timless John - If you must lay these tiles on to ply, then we would recommend that you use some form of movement matting (ie DITRA) to reduce stress on the tile due to movement.

The following contains some of our general installation recommendations for encaustic / cement tiles. Please don't hesitate to get in touch if you need any further assistance.

Best regards,

Terrazzo Tiles


Installation

PRECAUTIONS
· Cement tiles have nuances in design and colour. All tiles will not be identical. This is a result of the hand-crafted
production process and the nature of cement. Mixing tiles from different boxes during setting is suggested to
produce a beautiful naturally rich appearance
· The tiles are unsealed raw cement. They can be easily stained until they are appropriately sealed. Try to avoid
walking on the raw tiles or handling with dirty hands. In between procedures, protect the tiles from foot traffic. If
walking on the tiles is essential, then we would recommend covering with cardboard (as opposed to plastic
which inhibits drying).
· Always test sealing products on a single tile before applying to the entire floor.
· Do not make unnecessary pencil marks on the tiles as they may be impossible to remove after.
· Tiles will expand and contract in different temperatures. We recommend the use of DITRA matting or a similar
product and/or expansion joints to prevent any cracking in your tiles.
· If you are tiling any surfaces that will be coming into direct contact with water you must ensure that the
substrate is absolutely waterproof, especially if it is sensitive to water like wood or plaster.

LAYOUT
· Before installation, lay out at least one row of tiles (without adhesive) in each direction to see if any adjustments
need to be made. You may need to shift the layout to balance the border tiles from the wall.
· Mark guidelines using a chalk line to suit your layout.

FIXING THE TILES
· Prepare a level floor surface with concrete or self-levelling cement – please consult an experienced tiling
professional if laying onto a wooden floor as this kind of substrate may be subject to movement and/or
deformation.
· Ensure that the substrate is dry so that there is no danger of humidity evaporating through the tiles which can
leave traces of nitrate.
· Examine all tiles for damage.
· Prepare the adhesive following manufacture guidelines.
· Unsealed cement is very absorbent so PRE-WETTING THE BACK SIDE OF THE TILES PRIOR TO SETTING
is required. Briefly dip the tiles in water (1-3 seconds) and let the excess drip away. Avoid letting the tiles sit in
water for long periods.
· Spread the adhesive on the surface to be tiled using a notched trowel, working in areas of 0.2 – 0.5m2. Also
apply adhesive to the back of the tile. Make sure that the whole surface of the tile is in contact with the
adhesive.
· Carefully hand-press each tile. DO NOT USE A HAMMER OR RUBBER MALLET as this can cause microcracks
to appear or even break the tile.
· Lay the tiles almost edge to edge with as narrow a grout line as possible (traditionally 1mm). Generally, cement
tiles are set abutted to one another with a small grout line. The only exception is for outdoor use or designs
where a client may prefer a wider grout joint. In our opinion, the finer the joint, the more elegant the result.
· Adjust each tile in relation to each other to maintain levels taking care to align them correctly, following your
chalk line guide.
WE DO NOT RECOMMEND THE PLACEMENT OF THESE TILES ONTO FRESH MORTAR OR
COMPACTED SAND-CEMENT AS THIS WILL ALMOST ALWAYS RESULT IN UNEVEN TILES WHICH
WILL EVENTUALLY COME LOOSE OR CRACK.
· Avoid getting adhesive on the surface of the tile as this can lead to staining.
· Once set, leave the tiles to stand for 12-15 hours until dry.

PREPARATION BEFORE 1st COAT OF SEALANT
· Once the adhesive has cured, check the tiles for any surface dirt or dried adhesive, removing any blemishes
with a razor blade or lightly sanding with waterproof sandpaper (No. 600), taking care not to scratch the surface.
DO NOT USE ACID, VINIGAR OR BLEACH.
· ALLOW TILES TO DRY COMPLETELY. If the tiles are sealed or waxed when wet it can result in ‘ghosting’
under the sealant and can impede evaporation.
· Whilst the tiles are drying, protect the tiles from all foot traffic.

SEALING – 1st COAT
· Make sure that the tiles are completely dry (at least 24 hours after having been set) and that they are
completely clean before applying the first coat of sealant (we recommend Lithofin Stainstop MN).
· Apply the sealant as per manufacturer’s guidelines. (NB Some tiles are more porous than others – test the
sealant as a first coat on a spare tile.)
· Protect the tiles from foot traffic whilst the sealant is drying (minimum 24 hours)
GROUTING
· IMPORTANT: Do not use dark tinted grout. This can stain your tiles. Test your grout first on a spare tile.
· BEFORE grouting, make sure that the sealant has cured completely.
· Mix the grout to a slightly runny consistency.
· Apply the grout over square metre areas using a grout float or squeegee. Repeat in 30 minutes if using a very
thing consistency.
· Clean off excess from the face of the tile using a soft sponge and water. Avoid removing inset grout by wiping
across the tile at an angle to the grout line.
· Leave the grout to dry for a minimum of 24 hours.

SEALING – 2nd COAT
· After the grout has dried, make sure that the tiles are completely clean and free from any grout residue.
· Apply the second coat of sealant, taking care to ensure that you wipe away any excess. The best finish is
achieved by applying the sealant in small amounts.
· Protect the tiles from foot traffic whilst the second coat is drying (minimum 24 hours)

OPTIONAL 3rd COAT of SEALANT
· If you have been using Lithofin Stainstop MN as the impregnator/ sealant for this tile, we also recommend the
use of Lithofin Multiseal as a final top coat. This sealant will give the tile a slight satin sheen but it will greatly
assist in keeping the tiles clean for regular maintenance. Apply as per manufacturer’s guidelines.