exterior path

[uptonboy]

Hi all, got a path that the customer wants tiling. Have attached 2 pics, 1 of how the path looks now and 1 of how they want it to look, next doors!. Concerned that if we go over what is already there, the cracks will appear at some stage through the new path. Is this the case?? Will all the concrete have to come up and fresh laid??. Not done much external stuff only small porches so opinions welcome. Big house already quoted on her 3 bathrooms, don't want to jepodise them buy doing a shoddy job on the path

 

[mikethetile]

sorry mate

that path will have to come up, shouldnt be too difficult by the look of it

shutter for the new path and get it spot on

use a wood float to smooth as you want to leave the surface open, a steel float will raise the fat and seal the surface

your tiling will be easier and will look the mutts when done

 

[White Room]

As mikethetile says but would use a wood straight edge to get it flat, ruling and tamping to bring the fat up then trowel. When set would put a slc over to ensure it's suitable for the tiles

 

[uptonboy]

Thanks guys, thought as much. Whats the drying time before i can lay a tile? Also sure i read somewhere that ardex to an exterior slc, asked in CTD today but they couldn't confirm any idea what it's called??

 

[doug boardley]

take it up in my opinion, shutter for a new concrete path and use a concrete vibrating poker to get a really flat surface to tile onto, altho' if you did it now it's gonna be into summer before concrete is sufficiently cured to tile onto, unless of course you use bal green screed addy (I've not used it, but assuming it's suitable for exterior use)

 

[uptonboy]

had thought of bal green screed, mapei do topcem which apparently is suitable for exterior, good advice will get some prices as never used either before.
Thanks
Dan

 

[smurf21]

If your not governed by height you could take out the loose concrete and patch it up then compo fix onto the top with a good 25mm bed between levelled batons depends on your experience tho.

 

[uptonboy]

spoke to mapei and their gear can't be laid on hardcore advised the only way was to put in concrete base which can be tiled after 6 weeks. Have let the customer know, he still thinks the current path can be tiled over. Hey ho, put price in for the full works, think it may be 'put off' for a while but we'll see. Thanks to everyone who offered advice..

 

[Spud]

if you put a new concrete base down i would recommend using schluter troba on top of this and putting a screed on too by doing this you will be protecting the tile installation from future frost damage and any cracks that may appear in the concrete
hope this helps
Gary

 

[Gazzer]

spoke to mapei and their gear can't be laid on hardcore advised the only way was to put in concrete base which can be tiled after 6 weeks. Have let the customer know, he still thinks the current path can be tiled over. Hey ho, put price in for the full works, think it may be 'put off' for a while but we'll see. Thanks to everyone who offered advice..

I had a customer once who insisted that it would be ok to tile over a slab path :mad2::mad2::mad2:.......and NO! i didnt. But i know the man that did !

 

[DHTiling]

if you put a new concrete base down i would recommend using schluter troba on top of this and putting a screed on too by doing this you will be protecting the tile installation from future frost damage and any cracks that may appear in the concrete
hope this helps
Gary

Troba is good for letting any moisture from the screed escape into the sub-base/hardcore.....Not sure on it's crack isolation properties....but if it keeps the screed free from excess moisture then it will help with the freeze thaw factor and prevent cracks in the screed as gary mentioned...

 

[uptonboy]

not used it before will check website, much appreciated

 

[bighen]

If you have to tile over the existing concrete, I would use an isolation membrane. It will isolate the tile from the concrete with a cushion of plastic encased fiberglass fibers. The membrane absorbs the stress-not the tile and its thin-set adhesive.

Personally I would break up and relay c/w control (expansion) joints set to match the grout joints. I would form the control joint with tile backer board.

Hope this helps.