Discuss Fitting Travertine tiles in new build house - advice very welcome in the British & UK Tiling Forum area at TilersForums.com.

F

fd3typer2

Hi, first post here so be gentle ... :lol:

I'm a reasonably experienced builder and a fair tiler and have a job coming up for a good client. It's a bathroom in a newish build house. Stud walls and water resistant flooring board etc.

Client wants travertine tiles on the floor and walls so I have been reading up on the old travertine as I've never done it before. The tiles I think are Topps tiles Honed and filled 10mm, 60x40 on the floor and something like 20x30mm on the walls

This is what I plan to do but have a few questions along the way..

Floor - I think i need hardibacker on the floor (6 or 12mm?). Do I lay it down on a bed of flexible adhesive or screw it down straight to the floor?

Wall - because of the weight of the tiles I can't put the tiles straight on right? So, do I need to screw 6mm hardibacker onto the plasterboard stud partition (finding the joists of course).
And do I just screw or do I have to have some adhesive between the hardibacker and plasterboard?
And for screws, countersink drywall screws or is there something else more clever?

Do I need the expansion gap at the bottom of the wall tiles? If so, how do you guys usually do this? With just tile spacers?

Sealant - seal before or after sticking the tiles, and before or after grouting?

Adhesive - I have LOADS of Green star tubs, can I use this. I'm expecting a no, but would prefer to hear a yes to save me some cash :smilewinkgrin:


I'm sure the answers are somewhere on this board but can't seem to find them. Sorry if the questions are repeated

Many many thanks in advance to all you gods of tiling :drool5:
 
D

DHTiling

300 centres,,,hardi 250 ( 6mm) is great...as you say a bed of flexi adhesive and then screwed down every 200mm...the only thing i would add to this is an un-coupling membrane as it is travertine and you don't want any lateral stress cracks coming to the surface.

You can use the hardi ( 6mm ) on the walls as well but use adhesive and screws..

small expansion gaps on hardi boards and floor to wall transitions and then use an alkali resistant scrim tape for the joints.
 
F

fd3typer2

Great, thanks again.

No the chipboard has to stay down, would be too much work to remove ! I could screw some marine ply down @150mm I guess but the floor level would be a bit too high. I'm preferring the hardi at the mo.


Alls I do is break things with hammers :smilewinkgrin: I never knew there was so much science in tiling! :lol:
 
F

fd3typer2

Hi,

I have just started this job and decided the floor was not sturdy enough. Felt a bit bouncy. I discovered 7x2 joists with no noggins. I've removed the flooring grade flooring board now, and want to know if I can replace it with 18mm exterior ply (as its the same thickness as the flooring board). I've already 'nogged' it heavily to make it more rigid.

If it is ok, would the Bal spf still be ok to use for the floor tiles?

Cheers in advance.
 

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Fitting Travertine tiles in new build house - advice very welcome
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