Fixing plasterboard

L

lasors

Hello all,
I've dot and dabbed MR plasterboard to bare block walls. They were skimmed but it was nowhere near flat and would prove difficult to tile with 400mm tiles, so it all came off.

I was wondering if people think it's a good idea to add some mechanical fixings as well, and if so, what kind? And how many per board? So far I'm thinking 60mm hammer fixings, if they can easily be knocked flush and still pull on the board. Tiles are 20kg/sqm.

Any advice?

Thanks
Jim
 
There should be no need to use any fixing for a dot and dabbed plasterboard, (unless it's thermal boards) you state you have taken off the boards so will you be re-fixing new boards.
 
Sorry, it was plaster only, bonding coat and skim. Hacked it all off down to the blocks with hammer and bolster, PVA'd for dust stabilization, then dot and dabbed new board to the blocks. Seems solid enough but I'm usually keen on belt and braces approach so was wondering what might be safest method.

If it's agreed the adhesive will be fine on its own then I can live with that.
 
Is the PVA going to be a problem? No way I could have put the adhesive onto the wall without adding something to firm up the surface, the dust was never ending given the rough pitted surface of the blocks.
 
Plasterers all use diluted PVA for fixing plasterboard so would have thought so. Few frame fixings (self tapping or sleeved depending on the background) can't hurt though. If the background is lightweight blocks use sleeved fixings or plugs.
 
Plasterers all use diluted PVA for fixing plasterboard so would have thought so. Few frame fixings (self tapping or sleeved depending on the background) can't hurt though. If the background is lightweight blocks use sleeved fixings or plugs.

Since when????
 

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