Discuss Fixing sink to tiled stud wall in the UK Tiling Forum area at TilersForums.com.

Dan

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Staffordshire, UK
It goes without saying really. www.365drills.com, and say you're from tilersforums.com.

Though, if you twisted the chuck on the drill a few times before pressing the button, you'll score a small hole in ceramics easily.

Once you have scored at the glaze enough to steady your drill, press and release the trigger a couple of times, really low revs, and then once you feel it's through the glaze, don't press on it, go slow, and ease in the hole. As they say. lol

Once you have the hole, I found the plasterboard plugs to be best for stopping the strain going on the tile. So go for it.

Good luck, and pics would be cool of the finished job. :)
 
F

faithhealer

in a pefect world, there should be a baton of sorts to screw into. But never is of course. I take it , that is has a pedestal to take the weight, so I usually add a few blobs of silicon a well as the screws, which as you rightly say, shouldn't be tight on the tile.
Always angle them of course so you can get your screwdriver in!
Or fit then little bracket thingys, two screws in each!
 
G

grumpygrouter

Hi guys,

I'm fixing a sink to a tiled stud wall. Wall is 12mm plasterboard. Just wondered what best practice was. Tiles are white ceramics.

I was going to use plaster board wall plugs but know its best not to put any stress on the tiles. Any advice would be greatfully received.

Cheers Smithy
You can get specific sink:thumbsup: fixings for fixing to stud walls. Think I got mine from B&Q a few years a go.
 
D

Deleted member 1779

On my bathroom projects I throw away the supplied fixings.

Then use M8 COACH BOLTS to get maximum strength.
coach_bolt.jpg


Sinks are bloody heavy and rather than place a loading on the tiles I drilled holes into a fixed baton and then fitted the threaded bar though the holes. Then tightened at the back with NYLOCK nuts.

Plaster boarded over the top.

Drilled 16mm plugs out of the tiles and then fitted over the coach bolts.

sink5.jpg

Holes are drilled as 16mm plugs to slip over the coach bolts.

Result:

PROJECT ONE
sink1.jpg

The coach bolts (above) are fixed with two nuts. One to hold the sink against the tiles via a washer. The next nut holds the tensioner for the hanging half pedestal.

Its a lot of weight to hold onto tiles so M8 Stainless steel nuts and bolts are used.

PROJECT TWO

sink2.jpg

Even this sink has a solid bolting system. (note to self - should have used Nylock here)

Tip - Dont over tighten nuts when fixing until you are sure everything has settled like tile adhesive.

Its the wooden beam behind the tiles and plasterboard that should be taking the weight of the china, the pedestal, the taps and of course the water.


sink3.jpg

Sinks can be bloody heavy! - And expensive....

sink4.jpg


If you drop them / break them / crack or chip them during installation then its unahappy customer time. Even the accessories can add to the dead weight.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
S

simhopper

On my bathroom projects I throw away the supplied fixings.

Then use M8 COACH BOLTS to get maximum strength.
coach_bolt.jpg


Sinks are bloody heavy and rather than place a loading on the tiles I drilled holes into a fixed baton and then fitted the threaded bar though the holes. Then tightened at the back with NYLOCK nuts.

Plaster boarded over the top.

Drilled 16mm plugs out of the tiles and then fitted over the coach bolts.

sink5.jpg

Holes are drilled as 16mm plugs to slip over the coach bolts.

Result:

PROJECT ONE
sink1.jpg

The coach bolts (above) are fixed with two nuts. One to hold the sink against the tiles via a washer. The next nut holds the tensioner for the hanging half pedestal.

Its a lot of weight to hold onto tiles so M8 Stainless steel nuts and bolts are used.

PROJECT TWO

sink2.jpg

Even this sink has a solid bolting system. (note to self - should have used Nylock here)

Tip - Dont over tighten nuts when fixing until you are sure everything has settled like tile adhesive.

Its the wooden beam behind the tiles and plasterboard that should be taking the weight of the china, the pedestal, the taps and of course the water.


sink3.jpg

Sinks can be bloody heavy! - And expensive....

sink4.jpg


If you drop them / break them / crack or chip them during installation then its unahappy customer time. Even the accessories can add to the dead weight.

Why not use a fisher fixing basin set, Metal washers and cermaics dont mix....Nyloc nuts, Do you live near a railway line:lol:
 

Ajax123

TF
Esteemed
Arms
932
1,213
Lincolnshire
You can get specific sink:thumbsup: fixings for fixing to stud walls. Think I got mine from B&Q a few years a go.

I got these in mine as well. I got them from B&Q in Peterborough. Can't remember what theyre called but the sink hasn't fallen of yet and I built the wall as well so that is probably an acheivement in itself.
 
S

simhopper

I'm not a big fan of the Fisher system.

But its personal choice. Yes I should shield that washer with rubber really.

We have always used fisher fixings, whether its there commercial or industrial range....We have yet to have a failure.

We have been hanging many tonnes of steel on there basic range of fixings so fixing a sink should be done with ease
 
S

Smithy153

Hi guys. I would have preferred to fix to a stud but this was not possible the only horizontal stud in the wall was far too high. The sink would have just looked daft.

John - its only a small sink so im not overly concerned.

In the end I found some heavy weight plasterboard wall plugs in B&Q. I'll post some pics tomorrow when i've got more time. I manage to fit some brackets as well to try and spread some of the weight.

Rich thanks for another informative post. I'll bear your information in mind. Your drills made mincemeat of the tiles :thumbsup:
 

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