Flexible Adhesive

[Dan]

We've seen a few cases where the tiler (and plumber on our plumbing forum and sparky on our sparky forum) has lost a case because he shouldn't have done something but the customer said do it. The court see you as the expert, a third-party expert witness they get in to take advice from would say hands down that you shouldn't have done whatever it is if you knew it would fail.

If it isn't acceptable due to safety, the customer signing something is worth jack. You'd be better off not signing anything and denying you even spoke to the customer let alone did the job. (Not that I'm condoning that!)

 

[Tile Shop]

Because each case is taken on merit. The deciding factors will include all evidence of why it has failed. If the client insists that the procedure shall begin, even though the contractor has vetoed that compliance, then that will be taken into consideration by the judge's decision. Nothing is ever black and white.

Narp, narp narp. completely disagree.

The bit about why it failed, the tiler will explain why it will fail before he starts...... but trots off and does it anyway. Waivers??? a written document of a tiler documenting how and why it will fail, and that he will accept no liability. he has actively documented that that his tiling will not work, to the cost of the customer. Doesn't matter if the customer accepts that or not at the beginning. Its extra written proof that the tiler knew he couldn't do a fault free job.

Ok, so you might get a nice judge, but any sensible person wouldn't even put themselves in that position. And if you don't get a nice judge, you won't be doing it again will you!. And it will cost you more than you earned from the job.

Seen it happen twice. Waivers ain't worth the paper they're written on/

 

[widler]

Last floater I did I plugged and screwed right through the wood/insulation into the block and beam then ,hardie glued and screwed
Made it solid as a rock.

 

[Terry the tiler]

Thanks for all your messages chaps.
I understand all your points.
The floor has not got ufh and I'm pretty sure won't pose any threats to health and safety it's more a case of if/when the grout decides to crack, the risks have been explained to the customer.
He is already aware but thinks it will be firm enough.
It was quite a sturdy floating floor and he reckons the neighbours has been tiled for over 5 years and is still fine, so. ..
I've told him we will take every precaution and measure to try and prevent cracking and that's all we can do.
At the end of the day I'll have it laid and grouted in 3 days and once I'm paid, it's his problem. And I mean that in the least arrogant way. Any problems he has after that he has been warned about.
I could write a good letter up explaining all this and that he understands to protect myself I mean at the end of the day I'm not doing anything wrong here.
He's in the wrong for proceeding to go with tiles and accepting the risk.

 

[Andy Allen]

Last floater I did I plugged and screwed right through the wood/insulation into the block and beam then ,hardie glued and screwed
Made it solid as a rock.

How did avoid all the pipes.. ect

 

[widler]

How did avoid all the pipes.. ect

I closed my eyes and preyed

 

[hmtiling]

Last one I did I used

Last floater I did I plugged and screwed right through the wood/insulation into the block and beam then ,hardie glued and screwed
Made it solid as a rock.

I used blanke permat and a load of fibre slc. The blanke stuff is pricey but very good at adding strength

 

[Rizzle from the Portizzle]

Last one I did I used
I used blanke permat and a load of fibre slc. The blanke stuff is pricey but very good at adding strength

top advice the blanke mat is as good as it gets

 

[One Day]

How much is the Bal s2 per bag? Very pricey i'd imagine. Everyone does a single part s2 now so i'd shop around. As @Andy Allen says, use an admix with your grout for increased flexibility

BAL Fastflex is the most flexible adhesive there is. S2 isn't really a measure of flex, but more of flexural strength (i'm told anyway)
Some situations call for massive bond strength - so use TM Ultimate for that.
Others call for more flex - BAL FastFlex for me in that case.

I'm with Andy Allen on this one. GT1 with the BAL grout too.

 

[lmkitchens]

I did a small one a few years ago

I drilled the chipboard with a 6mm bit.
Poked a screwdriver through to feel for pipes below
Drilled with 6mm SDS
Fixed with 120mm Frame fixings
Put 6 or 8 a sheet of chipboard
Fixed NMP over the top and tiled

Its been fine for the last 3 years

It just depends how solid you can pull the chipboard down I guess.