Floor Boards

[etc.tiling]

Question: a customer of mine had her bathroom floor tiled about 10 years ago and as soon as I went round I told her they had been put on the floor boards rather than the tiler using any backing material i.e. ply-lining the place. As a consequence, just about all the tiles have come loose and while it doesn't look that bad it is annoying and the grout has now started to perish because of the movement.

All the bathroom furniture is in place i.e. the toilet (with the cistern screwed to the wall) and hand basin (also screwed to the wall). I have told her that it ideally needs ply-lining which is going to raise the height of her furniture accordingly, which she wasn't overly happy with because despite me saying she won't be able to see the new holes she said she'd know the extra holes were there in her expensive porcelenosa porcelain wall tiles.

I've ply-lined using 10mm ply before onto floor boards, is there a thinner spec'd ply any of you have used succesfully?

Also, I have come across a system made by Schluter caled Schluter Ditra, which is inly 3mm but needs to be set onto 4mm adhesive bed. Have any of you used this before with success?

And finaly, I have seen a system that comes on a roll from Topps Tiles and costs about £50 for 5m. This also needs to be set onto a 4mm adhesive bed but apparently will create a nice strong substrate to tile onto.

Apologies for the questions but she really doesn't want anymore holes in her tiles if she can help it - I might end up having to pass this one on because she could turn out to be a nightmare customer.

Thanks for you advice fellas (and ladies)

 

[GazTech]

Question: a customer of mine had her bathroom floor tiled about 10 years ago and as soon as I went round I told her they had been put on the floor boards rather than the tiler using any backing material i.e. ply-lining the place. As a consequence, just about all the tiles have come loose and while it doesn't look that bad it is annoying and the grout has now started to perish because of the movement.

All the bathroom furniture is in place i.e. the toilet (with the cistern screwed to the wall) and hand basin (also screwed to the wall). I have told her that it ideally needs ply-lining which is going to raise the height of her furniture accordingly, which she wasn't overly happy with because despite me saying she won't be able to see the new holes she said she'd know the extra holes were there in her expensive porcelenosa porcelain wall tiles.

I've ply-lined using 10mm ply before onto floor boards, is there a thinner spec'd ply any of you have used succesfully?

Also, I have come across a system made by Schluter caled Schluter Ditra, which is inly 3mm but needs to be set onto 4mm adhesive bed. Have any of you used this before with success?

And finaly, I have seen a system that comes on a roll from Topps Tiles and costs about £50 for 5m. This also needs to be set onto a 4mm adhesive bed but apparently will create a nice strong substrate to tile onto.

Apologies for the questions but she really doesn't want anymore holes in her tiles if she can help it - I might end up having to pass this one on because she could turn out to be a nightmare customer.

Thanks for you advice fellas (and ladies)

Remove the tiles, and tile the floor using 2 part flexible....no need to overboard with anything...it isnt a wet room so no need for membranes......Gaz
BAL Fastflex Powder & Liquid

A two part, rapid-setting, sulphate-resistant, water-resistant and frost-resistant floor tile adhesive and isolating, anti-fracture underlay, suitable for use in interior and exterior locations. Suitable for fixing ceramic floor and porcelain tiles and mosaics (including fully vitrified), dark natural stone and slate. Suitable for use on tile backer boards, glazed tiles, concrete bases, cement:sand screeds, tongue & groove floorboarding, plywood overlay, floating plywood/chipboard floors, ceramic/quarry tile/terrazzo/hard natural stone bases, vinyl tiles/sheet, mastic asphalt, steel, glass reinforced polyester (GRP), steel and galvanised steel. Conforms to BS EN 12004, Type C, Class 1F.


BAL Wide Joint Grout

A water-resistant, frost-resistant cement-based powder grout designed for grouting ceramic floor tiles, mosaics, quarries etc. Also suitable for use on walls. Not recommended for soft glazed wall tiles, or tiles with metal decor or lustre. Suitable for use in interior and exterior locations in both wet and dry conditions. Suitable for swimming pools. Conforms to BS EN 13888, Type C, Class G1.

NOTE: The physical properties of BAL WIDE JOINT GROUT can be enhanced by the addition of BAL ADMIX GT1. The polymer admixture imparts flexibility, increases adhesion and reduces the water permeability thus widening the application possibilities of the grout, with a classification of BS EN 13888, Type C, Class G2.
BAL Admix GT1

A polymer additive for BAL cement-based grouts. Not for use with adhesives. The addition of BAL ADMIX GT1 greatly improves the physical properties and characteristics of the grout.

• Increased mechanical strength.
• Increased flexural strength and flexibility.
• Reduced water permeability.

 

[grumpygrouter]

...or Ardex 7001, primed with Ardex P51 primer first. As always with timber flooring, it is essential that the floor is rigid. Ardex FL grout is suitable for this combination. Slightly cheaper option than Fastflex as advised by Gaz but either will do the job.

Grumpy

 

[tfs]

Hi Mate,

You should screw all loose boards into the joists. I would reccomend lifting any board you intend to screw just to ensure that no plumbing will be damaged (only takes and extra few minutes).

This will help ensure that you have a more secure surface.

kris

 

[Perry]

bal fastflex is only suitable for tiling direct to t&g floorboards with joists of 300 centers or less most floors are 400 centers i believe they changed it to 300 centers a long time ago because they found the tiles were not as flexible as the adhesive and caused a few problems tile backer board would be my choice if thats to high suggest painting tiles on the floor 😛ete :lol:

 

[robbbin]

I would clean up boards scew them down to joists avoiding plumbing..... Ive used granfix flexi add more pva lay tiles on a six mil bed use flexi grout again add some pva never had a problem

 

[grumpygrouter]

I would clean up boards scew them down to joists avoiding plumbing..... Ive used granfix flexi add more pva lay tiles on a six mil bed use flexi grout again add some pva never had a problem

Granfix are quite keen on this PVA stuff aren't they!

Grumpy

 

[DHTiling]

Also just to say that DITRA mat is not a substitute for ply-lining floors...

 

[wivers]

How many of you go straight down on floor boards then?

 

[DHTiling]

Nope!!!!!

 

[grumpygrouter]

Only when the builder insists that I do and he is looking after the warranty!

Grumpy

 

[Gazzer]

I have gone direct onto T&G floor boards quite a few times.
1st was my own bathroom which is very small, The boards were checked and if any creaks or groans/loose boards found then they were secured. I laid the flor with 2 part Fast Flex, grouted with single part flexi grout....NO PROBLEMS after 4 years.
From then on i will lay using the same method ONLY if the client insists. WHY? because i believe in the overboarding method with Hardibacker or No More Ply. That method gives me more confidence.
I will never use Ply, the reason being is that Ply comes in different grades and can be liable to have bad batches. This info was told to be by various people in the woodworking trade including Wood supply shops.
Saying all that.....over the past years i have used all methods and never had a floor come up or even a grout joint crack....not that i know of anyway.

 

[tfs]

i always use ply

 

[IvegotsTILE]

I wouldn't go onto t&g. Have told a few customers I wouldn't do it cause they would move,they got someone else to do it.Two customers have now asked me to come back cause all their tiles are moving and the grout had all cracked.
'Can you take the tiles up and clean them so we can re-use them'. Thet said.
'Sorry to busy'.As if I'm gonna do that,muppets.
I always board out.

 

[brian c]

would never use PVA anywhere near my adhesive or substrates.

use ply regularly and never once had a problem.