Floor Tile Problem (tile On Tile?)

[olly330]

It's mainly down to the tiler to check the batches and ensure they're all matching, and even then, still work from several boxes at one time (so mix a few boxes up and work from that pile so they're mixed). So well done for getting the shop to take responsibility.

You can lay the tiles over the tiles as long as they've been fixed well using the correct stuff.

Perhaps try and pull one up in the middle and make sure they have 100% coverage.

You can also try tapping them in various places using a pound coin. You will be able to tell where there are voids as the note changes to a high note. If you tap the coin on something solid first like the bricks to your house etc you'll hear a dull sound, that's what the tiles should sound like EVERYWHERE when on floors.

Thanks, very helpful, will check tomorrow with tapping to see they are held in well.

What's the best solution for where they meet the wall tile, should there be a gap and if so should it be filled with grout or clear/black Silicon?

Do you think the height will be too much?

 

[Flintstone]

Either butted up or a small 2mm gap, whatever, best siliconed, neatly!

 

[John Benton]

Long story, but the some of the floor tiles that have been laid are from a different batch, this was a mistake from the supplier (big national company) as they should ensure all tiles are from the same batch.

The supplier has accepted they messed up mixing the batch of floor tiles and will be sending out a whole new batch of floor tiles as well as adhesive as they cannot track down any tiles from the same batch.

The supplier recommended laying the new tiles ontop of the ones that have just gone down, does this sound ok?

The tiles that have just been laid were on a no more ply substrate that was well screwed down, so I know I will have a height issue (6mm no more ply + 8mm tiles + 8mm tiles ). Would this height stand out too much?

Also, I don’t like the look of floor tiles that butt up to wall tiles but don’t want the last row of wall tiles to be ripped out as that could cause further damage up the wall tiles.
Should a gap of around 3mm be left around the edges of the floor which would be filled with grout or clear Silicon? Or should the tiles floor tiles be run tight to the wall tiles and a clear Silicon used?

Or what other way would be best to deal with this, are some sort of edging trim for floor/wall available?



Thanks for the help

No problem putting the floor tile to the wall tile, just leave a 2mm joint around the edge. I would use black silicon to finish off with

 

[Dan]

Thanks, very helpful, will check tomorrow with tapping to see they are held in well.

What's the best solution for where they meet the wall tile, should there be a gap and if so should it be filled with grout or clear/black Silicon?

Do you think the height will be too much?

The height is usually only a problem if it's a problem for you. You can use a door strip where it meets the other floor. There would be a tiny ramp, nothing drastic. Check the loo will still fit the stack pipe, pipes to the basin will still fit etc, should be fine. And cheap to correct if not.

The main thing I'd be worried about is whether they've been fixed well. I don't think the tiler was a good one by the looks of it.

The method for where tiles meet each other on any internal corner (be it floor to wall, or wall to wall) is to Silicon over the gap made by tiling up to each other, but not as to rest one tile on another. And this allows movement in both directions.

Here is an incredibly technical drawing I've just done for you. Neither tile touches the other. Silicon covers the gab. Both tiles could theoretically move into the gab, should expansion and retraction require it.



Silicon would usually match the tiles. I'd never use clear. You'll see the gab through it.

 

[olly330]

The height is usually only a problem if it's a problem for you. You can use a door strip where it meets the other floor. There would be a tiny ramp, nothing drastic. Check the loo will still fit the stack pipe, pipes to the basin will still fit etc, should be fine. And cheap to correct if not.

The main thing I'd be worried about is whether they've been fixed well. I don't think the tiler was a good one by the looks of it.

The method for where tiles meet each other on any internal corner (be it floor to wall, or wall to wall) is to Silicon over the gap made by tiling up to each other, but not as to rest one tile on another. And this allows movement in both directions.

Here is an incredibly technical drawing I've just done for you. Neither tile touches the other. Silicon covers the gab. Both tiles could theoretically move into the gab, should expansion and retraction require it.

View attachment 82190

Silicon would usually match the tiles. I'd never use clear. You'll see the gab through it.

Thanks, that's a brilliant post and really helps me out, will speak to the next tiler about this before he starts.

Just a quick one about the bath panel, would the joiner be able to trim this as with the tile on tile it won't fit any more, and if so should it be trimmed from top of bottom? Maybe I should ask this on a joinery forum!


I actually always thought the wall tile should rest over the floor tile but your explanation makes a lot of sense.

You lads make it sound so easy, wouldn't it be great if tradesman actually were as good as you lot.

Anyone have any good tips on siliconing, I have heard spraying window cleaner canisters that contain alcohol over the Silicon makes it much easier to work with... I havd got some of those shaping tools too but always find you have to apply tons of Silicon then wipe loads away and it's a bit messy.

 

[Old Mod]

You lads make it sound so easy, wouldn't it be great if tradesman actually were as good as you lot..

Well we are! That's why u ignore our advice at your peril!
We did try to warn u!
And as far as the Silicon work is concerned, if your plumber/tiler are not competent enough it can ruin a job.
I always feel getting a Proffesional Silicon guy in is well worth the money.
It's what they do, and it should be perfect.
It will lift the whole job up a notch,and let's be fair.................. It's not as if it doesn't need it.

 

[John Benton]

Well we are! That's why u ignore our advice at your peril!
We did try to warn u!
And as far as the Silicon work is concerned, if your plumber/tiler are not competent enough it can ruin a job.
I always feel getting a Proffesional Silicon guy in is well worth the money.
It's what they do, and it should be perfect.
It will lift the whole job up a notch,and let's be fair.................. It's not as if it doesn't need it.

Spot on Marc, the siliconing makes or breaks it, and as you say this job is in need of a decent finish!! Don't scrimp on getting a top notch finish Olly

 

[Dan]

Thanks, that's a brilliant post and really helps me out, will speak to the next tiler about this before he starts.

Just a quick one about the bath panel, would the joiner be able to trim this as with the tile on tile it won't fit any more, and if so should it be trimmed from top of bottom? Maybe I should ask this on a joinery forum!


I actually always thought the wall tile should rest over the floor tile but your explanation makes a lot of sense.

You lads make it sound so easy, wouldn't it be great if tradesman actually were as good as you lot.

Anyone have any good tips on siliconing, I have heard spraying window cleaner canisters that contain alcohol over the Silicon makes it much easier to work with... I havd got some of those shaping tools too but always find you have to apply tons of Silicon then wipe loads away and it's a bit messy.

I'm pretty good and Silicon because my family run window fitting firms and I've always seen their ways etc

But when I'd show somebody I'd always tell them to use masking tape on both surfaces leaving just a couple of mm for the Silicon to stick to. Then run a thin bead of Silicon down. Smooth it off with a wet finger (don't lick your finger, use a cup of water, Silicon is cancerous), and then before it gets a skin developing from drying pull the masking off carefully. Leaving and perfect straight line.

Practise on some plasterboard or something first.

 

[Dan]

As for the joiner cutting the bath panel, it depends if he's don't it before.

 

[Dan s]

If the bath panels laminated I would personally cut from the top as the water ingress would be far less than the bottom. And I always use some universal spray sealer & an adhesive/iron on edging strip on the cur edge even if you can't see it because when exposed to moisture a panel won't last long at all. And a final bead of Silicon all around to finish.