Getting Upstands Right In Alcove

[gmt1981]

Thanks for all the advice. I think I will cut a section of the backerboard so that the tray can be suitably recessed. However, is it ok that the back and left side of the tray will be butted-up against the stud work?

I suppose any water that gets through the tiles/grout should just run down the front of the backer board and onto the the upstand, so in theory it shouldn't matter if there is no waterproof/resistant material behind the sides of the tray.

Where the board meets the lip of the upstand, would it be a good idea to put a bead of Silicon along the joint, just in case water tries to find its way in between?

Dan - good point on the right hand wall. As you say, if the board needs to be flush with the inner edge of the upstand then I should be able to batten or stick the board without too much trouble.

 

[Dave]

I think you have it sussed 🙂.

 

[Dan]

Maybe tank the wall that it only butts up to so it still becomes part of the tray.

 

[gmt1981]

Does that not defeat the point of using water resistant backerboard? If having to tank, I may have well used plasterboard - does it depend on what you are recessing into when determining if tanking is required?

I want to do a proper job but dont want to fork out for tanking kit when it will only be used for a strip of about 2 inches!

 

[Dan]

I was just thinking of that lip. When you tank it becomes part of the shower tray.

That said I've just found a thread that says not to tank it. It affects adhesion.

Have a look at the recent threads. They've just been replied to. Specifically the last couple of posts in the 'hardibacker - any questions?' Thread.

 

[gmt1981]

Thanks again for all the replies.

As you can see from the photograph below, I've cut away a slim section of the backerboard to allow the tray to be recessed into the rear and left sections of the backerboard.

Before i fix the tray in place and attempt to sort the solid wall on the right, does the upstand need to be flush with the outside edge of the backerboard? As it is, the edge of the board overhangs the upstand by ca.3-4mm, which would cause a void behind the tiles.

I can bring the tray out a bit so that it would be flush, but this would require me to build out the studs with a thin piece of wood which is just added hassle.

Also, what is the best way to fix the tray? Getting to the rear and central legs are a no no, and even driving a screw into the front legs looks very tricky.
Many thanks

 

[p4ulo]

It shouldn't matter that its set into the wall further than the board, the tile will be stuck to both surfaces, when you put your adhesive on (either wall or back-buttering) make sure you bring it flush then.
As for fixing, I presume the legs will be solid etc, fairly sure a plumber / installer would smear a tube of Silicon over all sides that make contact and push it firmly into place. Once sealant goes off, its deffo in there.
Other option if legs have screw holes - I've got a nifty 90 degree screw-driving attachment for my driver which would be perfect?