Discuss Grout starting to crack around floor tiles in the Best Floor Tiles area at TilersForums.com.

Not long ago I had the existing water damaged downstairs bathroom floor replaced with a whole new chipboard floating floor – this was before considering tiling, so I realise it would have been better to fix the floor but too late now.

Having later decided to tile, the tile supplier suggested covering with 6mm No More Ply, priming it and using Ultra Tile Fix ProFlex SPES S1. The grout used was Mapei UltraColor-Plus to match what was used with the wall tiles. The whole floor has not been tiled - just the small visible area - 6 x 4 330mm square tiles.

The floor tiles have only been down for 5 weeks and already the grout is starting to crack and I can just about see deflection up and down of the tiles!

Is this simply because of the floating floor, or the wrong adhesive or the wrong grout – a bit of all perhaps?

What do you suggest as a way forward? A whole new floor would mean ripping out bath and fitted furniture etc!
 
Any thoughts on the way forward? Is there a grout replacement that would be flexible enough to cope? - cracks are hairline. Do I have to take up tiles and adhesive and use S2 (or something else) - presumably a nightmare to take up and certain to destroy floor! Or am I just knackered and will just have to cover tiles with lino!!
 

Dave

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So tiles have to come up and be refixed with an alternative to S1 or tiling simply not an option? I thought No More Ply on a floating floor was supposed to be OK?
I don’t know who told you NMP is ok for floating floors but if you have deflection then it simply won’t strengthen it sufficiently.
 
STS site says "6mm PrePrimed NoMorePly strengthens timber floors before tiling. They prevent tiles and grout lines cracking by removing the ‘flex’ in timber floors caused by footfall. Slim 6mm boards provide the same strength as 15mm plywood and so reduce the ‘step’ into the tiled area."

I was actually going to risk tiling direct onto chipboard with S2 but thought I'd play it safe and use NMP.

Wish I'd gone with S2 now.

Though really wish I had a fixed floor
 

Dave

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Timber floors ( joists ) and floating floors are totally different. To tile any timber floor you need to virtually remove deflection. With a floating floor this is virtually impossible unless you use say 25mm ply , that can reduce deflection in the majority of a floor but they tend to still flex at the perimeter.
Your understanding of the wording timber floor doesn’t include floating floors I’m afraid.
 

Dave

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That’s your choice, sometimes on smaller floating floors, you can use longer frame fixings and pull the floor down tight to the substrate to remove bounce. Then tile with nmp again and S2 adhesive and a highly modified grout.
 

Garyo

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Just throwing in an idea ! Is this floor going to get light traffic, and is it your own home ? If so then there is another way…..rake out and vacuum all the old grout and replace with silicon mastic. All the movement that you had will remain but the joints won’t open up, and water won’t get into your floor. It will need to be light traffic though ! And take it easy with cleaning….
 

Jon591

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Any thoughts on the way forward? Is there a grout replacement that would be flexible enough to cope? - cracks are hairline. Do I have to take up tiles and adhesive and use S2 (or something else) - presumably a nightmare to take up and certain to destroy floor! Or am I just knackered and will just have to cover tiles with lino!!
You need a mastic joint matching grout colour around the floor to wall junction.
Should always have all tile to tile junctions siliconed anyway, as regardless of what they are fixed to, the grout always cracks and falls out as it’s not flexible
 

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Grout starting to crack around floor tiles
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