hardie backer slc

D

diferentshades

hi guys, have prepped my bathroom for tiling after using this forum as a guide. i have screwed all floorboards down tight, sbr primed and adhesive and screwed hardiebacker. while screwing the hardibacker down I noticed that the floor is not flat, it has a slope down to the middle, there is no bounce, just a slope i'd say about a 1/4 of an inch and then backup again. I tried tiling using large tile adhesive but i'm getting a lot of lipping. the tiles are 127mm by 800mm porcelain. my first tiling project by the way. really unhappy with the 8 or so tiles I laid so pulled them up! I was wondering if I clean up the hardibacker, can I use self levelling compound to flatten the floor? if so what type and should I prime the hardibacker. ( the return key has failed on my keyboard!)
 
As above, use adhesive and a straight edge between high points, or, I see by your other thread your wanting a Pro in, you could leave it for them to sort out.
 
Thinking about it, you probably have a bowl effect on the floor. Really the tiles should all be lifted and level the floor before retiling.
 
Thanks for the replies. To be honest, I would rather do it myself but if I get real stuck then i'm not too proud to let a pro in, I've done everything else my self except the plumb and electrics. I have taken out the tiles and i'm now left with mostly adhesive free hardiebacker. Shall I at least seal it with bal sbr if so dilute? or just get on with adhesive. quick one though, could I part fill the dip with adhesive, let it dry then crack on?
 
Thanks for you replies, have taken out the tiles so i'm mostly left with clean hardibacker minus a couple of spots. shall I prime with sbr and then use adhesive to fillt he dips, wait till it dries then start tiling?
 
You'll be fine, if you've got the time then level it, if not then just SPF rapid n a big trowel. As far as priming, I tend to sbr everything and thin it depending on substrate...
 
Hi guys, just saw all your replies... thanks for that. I all ready started tiling again, to late to get the slc. I started at a wall that I hadn't tiled yet, so far all is good! I started with a 6 mm trowel and back buttered the tile, this is where the floor is at its highest at the wall end. i'll probably go up to a 10mm then 12 mm as I get to the lowest point, checking with a straight edge as I go. I managed to avoid lipping so far by putting spacers under the corner of the previous row and as I put tile in the next row I have been sliding it back and forth till they sit together, probably wont work as I get to the middle of the floor but I think i'll have enough done to use a straight edge across the width and use my persuader! I might level the dip with some slc or carry on using thicker bed of adhesive. spoke to a lady from hardiebacker on Thursday and she said slc on top of hardie was a no no but she didn't seem to confident, besides I have seen posts where some of you guys have used it on hardie so i'll see how it goes. once again cheers
 
Hi guys, just saw all your replies... thanks for that. I all ready started tiling again, to late to get the slc. I started at a wall that I hadn't tiled yet, so far all is good! I started with a 6 mm trowel and back buttered the tile, this is where the floor is at its highest at the wall end. i'll probably go up to a 10mm then 12 mm as I get to the lowest point, checking with a straight edge as I go. I managed to avoid lipping so far by putting spacers under the corner of the previous row and as I put tile in the next row I have been sliding it back and forth till they sit together, probably wont work as I get to the middle of the floor but I think i'll have enough done to use a straight edge across the width and use my persuader! I might level the dip with some slc or carry on using thicker bed of adhesive. spoke to a lady from hardiebacker on Thursday and she said slc on top of hardie was a no no but she didn't seem to confident, besides I have seen posts where some of you guys have used it on hardie so i'll see how it goes. once again cheers

I've never had a problem with slc over Hardi,always prime it though!!!cant understand her telling you that!!!!!
 
Sounded like she was the receptionist, I'd ask a question then she'd put me on hold, come back and say 'my colleague says...' Anyways, coming up to the dip so I'll prime then use extra adhesive.
 
I notice from your first post that you say the tiles are 127mm x 800mm making them long and thin. Are these wood effect tiles by any chance? AHve you checked that the tiles aren't bowed? Try placing 2 tiles face to face and see if all 4 corner meet and don't bow out.
 
Hi guys, Thanks for all replies. Finished the floor last night. Does not look too shabby! there are a couple of high and low spots. I laid them in a random wood floor pattern (your spot on colour republic) not quite lipping but where two tiles meet end to end, they are flush but the adjacent long edge of the next tile is slightly raised, you don't really feel it when you walk on it but you can if you run your hand across it. went for extra adhesive after all, in hind sight, would have gone with your suggestions of SLC. Using extra adhesive, I think works, but only if your experienced or the patience of a saint! What's the best way to clean the tiles of adhesive residue? also any suggestions on grout make colour? it's the wenge colour on the following link: Xilema Porcelain Tile
 
Finished the floor. Looks great, in the end I went for an ebony grout... What a dirty job!

i need to finish paneling the walls an fit the bath suite. Once done I'll try and post some pics.

thanks for all your help
 
hi guys

I am tiling a shower area and need some advice again!

it's In a corner where one side is existing skimmed plasterboard, the other is rendered and skimmed wall. I have made a stud wall with moisture resistant plasterboard un skimmed to make a 3 walled area like an alcove.

I am considering putting mr plasterboard on the two existing walls as well, then either hardiebacker, homelux matting or bal tanking to all the walls. Not sure which one to use. I am using a resin shower tray which will be raised off the floor to accommodate the waste.

should the plasterboard go al the way down to the floor? if I use hardiebacker, should this go all the way to the floor or sit on the tray?

I know I said i'll post pics - and I will as soon as shower is finished - new baby coming on monady, so bit of a rush now!

thanks
 
Hi, some more advice needed. I'm doing the shower at the moment, it's in the corner with one side being plasterboard and skim, the other bricks with render and skim and I've made a stud wall to make a third side so it's a 3 walled shower. I battened out the brick wall and put mr plasterboard on all 3 walls. I'm mot sure what to go for next! Bal tanking, homelux matting, kerdi membrane or boar, hardiebacker, no more ply! Any advice guys?
I have a raised resin shower tray, if using a board, do I go down to floor level or stop at tray? Any advice please?
 
Primer g backer board and latexplan levelling compound as it will be flexible and you can feather out. I wouldn't pack up tile corners with spacers by the way!!
 
Hi, tilebarry

All ready finished the floor. Thanks for your reply though. Turned out quite well. I know what you mean about the packing, but I filled it with adhesive and made sure the tile spacer packers were just under the adhesive surface. Lifted the odd tile to check and there was complete coverage. Also luckily had to only do this under the bath area, not under the feet mind you. I used the bal large format tile adhesive, cause you can apply it quite thick. The floor feels really solid.

Here's a pic:

- - - Updated - - -

By the way, anyone no of a tilling course near ilford Essex?
 

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