Hardwall

[TJ Smiler]

Anyone used this before? doing a bathroom up and gone back to block walls, was gonna dot and dab PB but then i fancy trying something else, i'm pretty quick at plastering and i see the setting time on hardwall is 2 hours (also want to know if setting time means dry?)

Any info you got would be faaaaantastic

Chjeers

 

[White Room]

Setting time is just that and it will contain a high level of moisture but that then would be a good time to put the finish on and will take a fair bit of time to dry out.

 

[widler]

Same as white beam , it will dry out the same as any wet plastering tj

 

[TJ Smiler]

Thank you chaps...... Stick with dot and dabbing on this one then me thinks. Seems to take me ages to dab out a bathroom in PB, i think i may be going over the top with the amount of dry wall adhesive i use. I normally frame the board (on the wall) then fill this in with loads of rows of big dobs, almost like i'm trying to go for 100% coverage or something!! I know the stuff sticks like there is no tomorrow so i keep thinking i should use less.... I know you both dot and dab so how do you's do it? Hard question to answer i know, as it varies from wall to wall but as a general rule how many rows are you putting in per board. I gotta speed up on this front

Cheers lads

 

[White Room]

If your using 12.5mm boards say 6x3 or 8x4 3 rows of adhesive vertical, if 9.5mm board then 4 rows vertically...

 

[TJ Smiler]

Thanks mate, yeah i'm using far too much then!! I knew i was!! on an 8x4 sheet i'd have about six rows or tons of dabs everywhere so there is no greater gap between dabs than about 3 bloody inches. My dabs are very fat too, i can use on some walls nearly a whole bag on one board (never been shown otherwise so always go overboard... pun intended)

Silly question mate but a good one for my knowledge, would your rows have gaps between each dab from top to bottom or do you do it so you have one continuous line?

 

[White Room]

Thanks mate, yeah i'm using far too much then!! I knew i was!! on an 8x4 sheet i'd have about six rows or tons of dabs everywhere so there is no greater gap between dabs than about 3 bloody inches. My dabs are very fat too, i can use on some walls nearly a whole bag on one board (never been shown otherwise so always go overboard... pun intended)

Silly question mate but a good one for my knowledge, would your rows have gaps between each dab from top to bottom or do you do it so you have one continuous line?

Yes, usually about 150mm but I fix a dab at the top and bottom of the board between each row and if there is going to be skirting then a continuess row at the bottom for fixing skirting.

If there is going other items fixed to the wall ie sinks, shower frames etc extra dabs to assist with fixings so it dos'nt drag the board in.

Another point is where most forget is around the ceiling lines there are usually gaps, these must be filled as well and and holes where air can flow behind the boards, external walls must isolated again to stop any air flow behind the boards.

Cold air and hot air can cause alot of condensation so a point to think about. [MENTION=13634]TJ Smiler[/MENTION]

 

[prceramics]

one bag does two boards you need a solid wedge at the top ( fire regs )

 

[widler]

As white beam, think timber partition and how many screws you put in.
Pr what's this fire regs thing ,never heard that before ?

 

[prceramics]

Yeah something to do with the fire traveling up the void quicker

 

[widler]

Aye,I've heard,well,just today, the joys of being a multi trading cowboy apparently

 

[White Room]

Yeah something to do with the fire traveling up the void quicker

Do you mean the void behind the plasterboard which should only be 10mm anyway, to be honest if the fire is burning that fierce you won't be getting out.

If you use thermal backed boards they use only 2 screws to hold the board on as heat/fire can melt the backing...imagine the fumes off that lot.

 

[prceramics]

http://www.british-gypsum.com/~/med...Leaflets/General/LIT_InstallationGuide_02.pdf
Using a trowel, apply a continuous
band around the perimeter of the
wall, ceiling edge, and around any
services or openings to provide
greater airtightness.
Airtightness
If a wall or ceiling is not airtight, air will pass through gaps, allowing
heat, noise or fire to escape. This can happen at the edges of linings,
such as where one wall meets another wall, floor or ceiling, and where
boards are cut to allow pipes or cables through.
To ensure the lining or partition is airtight, seal all joints and gaps
using Gyproc Sealant or Gyproc Dri-Wall Adhesive when using the
DriLyner systems

 

[White Room]

http://www.british-gypsum.com/~/med...Leaflets/General/LIT_InstallationGuide_02.pdf
Using a trowel, apply a continuous
band around the perimeter of the
wall, ceiling edge, and around any
services or openings to provide
greater airtightness.
Airtightness
If a wall or ceiling is not airtight, air will pass through gaps, allowing
heat, noise or fire to escape. This can happen at the edges of linings,
such as where one wall meets another wall, floor or ceiling, and where
boards are cut to allow pipes or cables through.
To ensure the lining or partition is airtight, seal all joints and gaps
using Gyproc Sealant or Gyproc Dri-Wall Adhesive when using the
DriLyner systems

That is new to me, the rest is standard but they have included the fire bit....

 

[prceramics]

I don't know for a fact if it is regulations buddy just that's the way I got shown how to do it a few years back just thought it was common practice, would be easier without doing it