Help with floor heights....

[kevg]

Ok, Just been to the house again today to inspect a few more things and take a few more notes on what I need to get done. I have now settled on a tile for all of the upstairs rooms and its a creama polished marble 30x30.

I took some pictures this time as when I was checking over some things I noted that due to having to put down backer board along with the tile etc I am going to be much higher than what the door allows (ok, I can get the door filed down) but the transition into the next room which will be carpeted will not be flush. You'll see what I mean from the pics.

I also thought I was going down on to ply for the upstairs, but It looks like its just chipboard on top of maybe floor boards ?


Upstairs pics....

Bathroom...



En-suite 1



En-suite 2




Downstairs (Concrete floor)

Kitchen



Downstairs Cloak/Toilet




My main concearn is the transition from each room being flush.

 

[Deleted member 9966]

hi Kev, regular carpet underlay is about 11mm and then if you have carpet of the same thickness, you'll just be a couple of mm out when transitioning from bathroom to carpet/en-suite to carpet.

I take it you're buying this as a new build from the house builder? Is there a reason why they haven't put any flooring down before the fittings eg. bathrooms/toilets etc were installed?

 

[kevg]

hi Kev, regular carpet underlay is about 11mm and then if you have carpet of the same thickness, you'll just be a couple of mm out when transitioning from bathroom to carpet/en-suite to carpet.

I take it you're buying this as a new build from the house builder? Is there a reason why they haven't put any flooring down before the fittings eg. bathrooms/toilets etc were installed?

Ahh, I didnt realise the underlay and carpet would be that thick, thats brilliant and a weight off my mind.

Yes thats correct, its a new build. The flooring is classed as an added 'extra' so you have to buy that at time of ordering the house. The reason why its not down is because the house was still being finished off and the flooring hadnt been spec'd by us yet. The bathooms, ensuite's etc are added in as normal I believe, and you then just get in whoever you want i.e. tilers, carpet fitters after the house is built and ready.

They are not even letting me do anything in the house till my move in date (18th Feb). I asked if I could get in to tile a couple of floors etc. Nope, wouldnt let me.

 

[Deleted member 9966]

by all accounts from what I've read on the internet, carpet underlay starts at around 7mm thickness, so obviously the thicker you want your underlay the more you'll have to pay. but there's nothing wrong with having springiness underfoot

will you be taking the toilet pans and sinks/pedestals out when you tile in the bathrooms etc?

and just a quick suggestion - why not tile all the way from the front door, down the hallway, into the downstairs loo and then on into the kitchen? that would save you having to consider any height differences downstairs :yesnod:

 

[kevg]

by all accounts from what I've read on the internet, carpet underlay starts at around 7mm thickness, so obviously the thicker you want your underlay the more you'll have to pay. but there's nothing wrong with having springiness underfoot

will you be taking the toilet pans and sinks/pedestals out when you tile in the bathrooms etc?

and just a quick suggestion - why not tile all the way from the front door, down the hallway, into the downstairs loo and then on into the kitchen? that would save you having to consider any height differences downstairs :yesnod:

We have already bought and paid for, underlay and carpet for the rest of the house, and signed a contract stating that no other changes will be made.

Yeah toilet/sinks will be lifted.

 

[DHTiling]

HI Kev.. Just a word of advice mate.. Quite a few new builds are TGI joists and these are set at 600mm centres.. so check for deflection in the floors..

 

[Rob Z]

Dave, Is Schluter selling Ditra XL in the UK? If so, are they saying it can go over 24" (600mm) o.c. joist spacing and single layer plywood subfloor?

 

[Scott]

Kevg I have responded to your other thread about the chipboard, however now i see the aobe pics a lot fo what i have written is of no use. It would have been useful to keep all your questions in one thread.

Id be overboarding that floor, is that a 'dip' in the floor beside the toilet under that rad? The oval line in your drawings is showing what? The doors will need to be planed down once the floor is laid and will need to come off anyway to lay it.

Most carpet suppiers now use cloud nine or similar underlay which is the thinner stuff, so with thats stone plus adhesive ad a backer board or ply its not going to be a smooth transition from one room to the next unless yu board out all the rooms

 

[kevg]

Kevg I have responded to your other thread about the chipboard, however now i see the aobe pics a lot fo what i have written is of no use. It would have been useful to keep all your questions in one thread.

Id be overboarding that floor, is that a 'dip' in the floor beside the toilet under that rad? The oval line in your drawings is showing what? The doors will need to be planed down once the floor is laid and will need to come off anyway to lay it.

Most carpet suppiers now use cloud nine or similar underlay which is the thinner stuff, so with thats stone plus adhesive ad a backer board or ply its not going to be a smooth transition from one room to the next unless yu board out all the rooms

Sorry Scottley, I'm not the best when it comes to this forum section jumping, but I'll try and keep it condensed in future.

Yeah the dip is the first thing I spotted, said to our sales woman and its classed as a snag. So will have to wait till I'm actually in the house. That was the last room I had planned to tile.

We got an upgraded underlay, so I'm keeping fingers crossed its a little thicker than normal ? If not then I will of course be able to see exactly what room I have left to play with after the carpet fitters have been in to do their stuff as it will be laid before we get in the house.

Would the 6mm Hardiebacker be ok on to the chipboard ?

 

[Scott]

The hardie will be ok as long as there is no deflection.

I cant see how they are going to repairs that floor though? Have look at where the fixings are and see what spacing the joists are at. Should be either 400 or 600 with 18mm or 22mm thick chipboad respectivley

 

[kevg]

The hardie will be ok as long as there is no deflection.

I cant see how they are going to repairs that floor though? Have look at where the fixings are and see what spacing the joists are at. Should be either 400 or 600 with 18mm or 22mm thick chipboad respectivley

Not sure how they will repair it either, but they had better lol. I'll go round all floors and check for deflection next time I'm at the house. If I do find anything, will it just be a matter of me putting in some more screws to fix it firmly in place better or ? I'll also check the spacing. I wont know what thickness the chipboard is until I see the site manager again and thats on the 11th Feb.

 

[Scott]

The deflection is in the joists and screws alone wont fix it. Without removing the floor and adding noggins the only way to 'fix' it is to overlay ply. This stiffens the floor on the surface as it ties all the joists together through the sheet, whereas noggins tie them together between each joists.

 

[kevg]

The deflection is in the joists and screws alone wont fix it. Without removing the floor and adding noggins the only way to 'fix' it is to overlay ply. This stiffens the floor on the surface as it ties all the joists together through the sheet, whereas noggins tie them together between each joists.

Would overlaying them with no more ply or hardiebacker be suitable to 'fix' any deflection issues I have rather than ply itself ?

 

[Scott]

I cant speak for the no more ply (NMP) as i havent used it but hardie wont decrease deflection like ply will even tough you are laminating the floor. Have a look at the NMP websote when its back on line