Discuss how close should the space be between porclain? in the British & UK Tiling Forum area at TilersForums.com.

M

mz30

With all due respect to everyone i`ve been doing the job long enough now to know what can and cant be done.

It is down to the customer what look they are after.

Sorry if you have took offence to my post but as soon as you lay those tiles butted up then your asking for problem's.
Point in question" it's down to the customer what look they are after"
yes and no they ask you for a certain look and then you tell them how it "can" be done,after all they are paying you for you experience.

Once again no offence meant but you are teaching tiling ,right?
Then i hope you don't teach your trainee's that.

My point is you may know what can and can't be done ,but you should also know what you should'nt do.
 
G

Grace'sDad

With all due respect to everyone i`ve been doing the job long enough now to know what can and cant be done.

It is down to the customer what look they are after.

I take your point but surely it's our job to advise the customer correctly and to "save them from themselves" sometimes?
 
D

DHTiling

What consideration should be given to joints between tiles?


It is important to have a joint between tiles to allow for movement in the structure. It is also important that tiles do not butt against one another. Where tiles are in contact with each other, this will increase further the effects of any stress built up within the tiling layer where movement exists or may be anticipated.

Leaving a suitable width of joint between tiles and filling these joints with a suitable grouting material enables localised stress relief to occur and when combined with the use of adequate movement joints, will reduce the risks of any problems occurring.

The width of joint can vary depending on your tiling project. A 6mm joint may be used on a floor, whilst a narrower joint of say 3mm may be used on a wall.

The British Standard for tile fixing, BS5385, suggests the following tolerances on finished work.
Flatness and variation from plumb:

± 3mm under a 2m straightedge.

Variation across Joints:

±1mm for joints less than 6mm wide

±2mm for joint 6mm or more wide


Grouts effectively fill the voids between ceramic or natural stone tiles, preventing debris such as water, dirt, dust, debris from filling the gap.
The choice of grouting materials will depend on the width of the joints and the service conditions of the floor or wall.
The joints between tiles should be clean and free from loose material before grouting. Sufficient time should elapse after fixing so as not to disturb the security of the tiles during grouting.
If you use a proprietary grout use it in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.
The grout should be applied over an area that can be worked within the open time of the material used, working the grout into the joints with a rubber squeegee or grouting trowel, ensuring that the joints are completely filled.
Remove the surplus grout from the face of the tiles and allow to set. Clean off tile surface with a damp cloth or sponge. Wide joints may require tooling to provide a dense surface to the joint. Polish tiles with a dry cloth once the grout has set. Joints in floor tiling should be finished as near as is practicable flush with the tile whereas joints in wall tiling can be slightly recessed.
so if a tile installation is butt jointed then the joints cannot be filled...


This advice is given from the TTA, which i would have thought all tile training should follow......:thumbsup:
 
Last edited by a moderator:
M

mz30

What consideration should be given to joints between tiles?


It is important to have a joint between tiles to allow for movement in the structure. It is also important that tiles do not butt against one another. Where tiles are in contact with each other, this will increase further the effects of any stress built up within the tiling layer where movement exists or may be anticipated.

Leaving a suitable width of joint between tiles and filling these joints with a suitable grouting material enables localised stress relief to occur and when combined with the use of adequate movement joints, will reduce the risks of any problems occurring.

The width of joint can vary depending on your tiling project. A 6mm joint may be used on a floor, whilst a narrower joint of say 3mm may be used on a wall.

The British Standard for tile fixing, BS5385, suggests the following tolerances on finished work.
Flatness and variation from plumb:

± 3mm under a 2m straightedge.

Variation across Joints:

±1mm for joints less than 6mm wide

±2mm for joint 6mm or more wide


Grouts effectively fill the voids between ceramic or natural stone tiles, preventing debris such as water, dirt, dust, debris from filling the gap.
The choice of grouting materials will depend on the width of the joints and the service conditions of the floor or wall.
The joints between tiles should be clean and free from loose material before grouting. Sufficient time should elapse after fixing so as not to disturb the security of the tiles during grouting.
If you use a proprietary grout use it in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.
The grout should be applied over an area that can be worked within the open time of the material used, working the grout into the joints with a rubber squeegee or grouting trowel, ensuring that the joints are completely filled.
Remove the surplus grout from the face of the tiles and allow to set. Clean off tile surface with a damp cloth or sponge. Wide joints may require tooling to provide a dense surface to the joint. Polish tiles with a dry cloth once the grout has set. Joints in floor tiling should be finished as near as is practicable flush with the tile whereas joints in wall tiling can be slightly recessed.
so if a tile installation is butt jointed then the joints cannot be filled...


This advice is given from the TTA, which i would have thought all tile training should follow......:thumbsup:



Nice post dave
I agree with you 100% even though you spely advice wrong:grin:
 
Last edited by a moderator:
H

Holohana

quite simple you lay what the customer wants after advising them of all the options, B Standards, pros & cons and what you are happy doing.

If a customer wants something bloody stupid and or totaly wrong and likely to fail i wont do it as its my name against it.

Howevr if its border line outside BS's ill advise them of such and ensure they are aware they are working outside them and leave it up to them.

They wont have any comebacks tho.

Spot spelling error!!!
 
P

pjtiler

With all due respect to everyone i`ve been doing the job long enough now to know what can and cant be done.

It is down to the customer what look they are after.
well ive been tiling 45 years mate and yours talking bo****s
you NEVER fit any tiles without a joint 2 mm minimum

i,d love to see some of your work
 
Last edited by a moderator:
D

Deleted member 1779

fight.gif
 
F

Fekin

C'mon guys, people have their own opinions and methods of working, and even if they do not follow BS regs for grout joints there's no need to start flaming each other "be nice" :grin:

Im would of thought if Essex tiling had had a lot of major problems with butting tiles up they wouldn't continue to do so, though I do think it is taking on a bigger risk laying them this way, and I do not think there will be many others on here that would butt up tiles really without a propper grout joint either.

Yes we do endevour to work to the customers specs and wishes, but personally I would never butt up tiles, and would only use a minimum 3mm grout line, and I have said this once when someone wanted no grout lines, and gave them the choice "I'll lay the floor but only with 3mm groutline matched to the colour of the tile" and they were happy with that.

Not having a groutline just will not allow even the slightest amount of movement of the floor, and we all know houses move, and move quite a lot over even sometimes a short period of time, so with no movement alowed in the tiles, then the first slightest bit of movement and the tiles will become stressed straight away, and it all depends on how much stress they can take before tenting or cracking will start to show, and butting up tiles is not something I would ever recommend to be taught on a training course.
 
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