How do I Join this 45 degree (ish)

[Filip]

I have a floor slope that I think I am going to tile with a PEI rating of 5 full bodied porcelain floor tile 7mm but how would you join the transition. I thought I would go with a quadrant but it does not work - as picture (but it will be stainless steel or aluminium ).
Do I just do a grout join or perhaps a triangle trim would work - or do I mitre the two tiles

 

[Albert]

You only need to mitre one edge

 

[Filip]

Thanks - do I leave a little gap to get something in there - grout or Silicon or do I butt both tight together. But if I did a tight butt join via a mitre I am worried about water getting in there and freezing. And what about expansion because if it was grout it would be a flexible one. By the way the tiles are 300 x 300 and I have cut a sample down that I brought to -A. test my cutter on this PEI5 stuff and. B - see how the slope would look

 

[Albert]

I would leave a tile joint on the edge

 

[Flintstone]

The top tile is too far forward, take it back until they align correctly and mitre of of the tiles, I would do the top one rather than the slope personally, and create a grout joint the same as all the others.

 

[One Day]

Water WILL get in and freeze no matter what you do.
I'd strongly suggest you get the basics right first, as in a proper drainage layer, or all your efforts will be loose after one normal British year!

 

[Filip]

Ok so a grout join, the slope needs grinding down in sections as some of it is curved and some is straight so after a little grinding I should get a better fit. So by mitring I am creating a continuous same size gap the full 7 mm depth of the tile, At the moment the tiles have a slight mitre in the opposite direction meaning they touch underneath and have a gap at the top. Would this touching on the bottom create expansion issues and is that why we mitre AND grout.
With a profile I was looking to protect the edge of the tile but they are full bodied so any chips will not be noticed --right ?

 

[Filip]

Water WILL get in and freeze no matter what you do.
I'd strongly suggest you get the basics right first, as in a proper drainage layer, or all your efforts will be loose after one normal British year!

Hmm - snow does get blown in and also rain on the outer edge but a whole drainage thing (perhaps ) is a little extreme - it is protected on 3 sides and has a roof that overhangs the tile area also the whole that side of the house faces away from the prevailing winds.
I may yet abandon the whole idea of tiles and go for a grey penny lino thing.
Tiles are so "DIVA"

 

[Filip]

I would leave a tile joint on the edge

Thanks

 

[Slippery]

I would rather square the slope up before tiling, the top of the slope is already cracked!

 

[Filip]

I would rather square the slope up before tiling, the top of the slope is already cracked!

Yes thanks for the heads -up. I have a fair amount of prep work to do first, not least removing all the old flaking paint, grinding down some high spots - see my other post for that one and also I will be needing to get some outdoors SLC for some 20mm lower spots.

 

[Filip]

Finally got round to posting the results. One thing that through me was that the light grey tiles were very slightly smaller that the dark grey. The area is not square - well it was just about square on 3 sides but the side with the slope was not square also the slope width was not the same and the slope depth was not the same so it tapered off in two directions.
The grout lines are not perfect but I am happy with it in the end. The crack in the old concrete floor was stitched together with stainless steel rods in resin. Its been two years since I did the floor and so far everything is still sound and solid. Thank everyone for your help.

By the way the hole in the floor is for a 4 arm washing line, its an undercover area so when it rains I can unplug from outside with all the washing still attached and plug in undercover.

 

[Dave]

Looks canny , thanks for sharing. 👍