Discuss How to check for damp? in the UK Tiling Forum area at TilersForums.com.

J

jdey123

Hi there,

I had an 'escape of water' between my sink and toilet unit in the bathroom and am dealing with the insurance company. I fixed the leak myself. The loss adjuster came out and saw a pool of water on the tiles that was visible when you lift the lid above the cistern and said that this indicated that the leak was ongoing and I needed to get a plumber to do a 'trace and access' to fix the leak. I was skeptical about this, as the pool wasn't getting any bigger. The loss adjuster suggested that it may be because the toilet and sink are on a raised area and the leak was going under the bath. He also advised that I shouldn't remove the front bath panel without getting a professional.

So I mopped up the water and put the lid back on above the toilet. The drying company then came around lifted the lid, shone the torch down and said there was still a small pool of water so there must still be a leak. I looked and indeed there was a small pool but smaller than when the loss adjuster was there so now I was thinking there may be a leak. I asked the drying company once the leak was fixed how long would it take to dry out the bathroom and he said weeks! I asked him why it needed drying when the bathroom has an original set of tiles and is double tiled in all visible places and he told me that was the problem. Water has had weeks to penetrate between 1 and 2 layers of tiles and would take weeks to extract. I pointed out to him that the pool was very small and wasn't getting any bigger whilst we observed it and he said the leak may just occur under certain circumstances e.g. when I flushed the toilet. I tried that whilst he was there but with no effect. I told him that I'd definitely fixed the original leak and he checked it and said it was dry but said that maybe in fixing that leak, extra pressure had caused a minor leak in the pipes in the sink unit hollow (not visible). but was left wondering whether I had an additional leak or not. I went back to the insurance company and asked if I could remove the front bath panel and sink unit hollow myself to ascertain whether there was indeed a leak and loss adjuster agreed that as it was unlikely it was more than a minor leak, they'd fix it when the builder removed the units. Unfortunately, the builder they appointed wasn't accredited so I rejected him and am now in the process of engaging my own builder, having created a specification of works and bill of materials myself (insurer/claims handler keep avoiding writing anything down)

In the meantime, I mopped up the small pool and put a hairdryer down to dry out the tiles and grout down there so I could see it was all bone dry. I then decided to leave the lid off the toilet and monitor the situation. Observed for a week and it remained bone dry. Put lid back on, lifted after a few days and saw that there was condensation on the toilet and a few drops of water on the tiles. So, I figure I've worked out what the problem is i.e. that the water in the toilet unit panels is evaporating, condensing on the toilet and toilet lid, dropping and forming a pool. To prove this, I re-dried the tiles and left lid off. Tiles have again been bone dry for a week.

So now, I'm thinking if the drying company is mistaken in their diagnosis as to whether there's an ongoing leak or not, then they may be wrong in their diagnosis that it'll take weeks for the tiles to dry.

So to cut a long story short, when the builders remove the sink unit and bath panels, if I dry out the tiles and grout which no doubt will be wet as the panels are still quite damp, then how can I tell if the water has penetrated behind the tiles or not? At the moment, the drying company contractor said the walls and floor are solid. There's also no sign that any tiles are coming away away from the walls and floors and the visible tiles and grout which I've dried remain dry. The other thing I don't really understand with the contractor's suggestion is that my bathroom wall tiles and grout get a soaking whenever we take a shower and the floor tiles from my wet feet when I get out of the bath, so isn't grout supposed to be waterproof?

Any advice/ammo to take back to the insurer most welcome. Although, claims handler has said they'll let me engage a builder dependent on the quote being reasonable, they've still said they want the drying company involved. Although they've agreed a hotel in the local area whilst the work goes on, I'm wary that the drying company will install their equipment for weeks putting my electric bill sky high, forcing me to ask that they leave and then potentially letting the insurer make it look like I'm acting unreasonably. Given the insurer's lengthy delays, illogical sequencing of work, hiring of a cowboy builder and refusing to write anything down, my cynicism of future ploys on their part does have quite a lot of grounds supporting it.
 
S

Scott

Welcome

Grout isnt water proof it will allow water to pass through it. It take a fair bit for that to happen though. However a leak is a different matter. If the water gets in behind then it will take a while to dry out.

They do tend to leave the dehumidifiers going for ages though. I did one a few years back and that took months although that was a shower leaking into the wall for a long time.

What work are they proposing to do? Retile?
 
J

jdey123

Thanks Scottley,

I've created the specification of works myself. So I'm saying that the 2nd layer of wall and floor tiling which covers the visible areas but not behind the units needs to be removed, but the original tiles are to be left as a base. A new layer of wall and floor tiles should cover the entire bathroom this time.

My real question is that if, the observable tiles and grout are completely dry and the walls and floors are solid then how I can I prove that the walls and floors aren't damp behind the tiles? The pipework in the bathroom is concealed behind the units but isn't set in to the walls. If water has penetrated in to the grout, wouldn't you expect the grout to remain damp? Woudn't the tiles fall off when the plaster dries out? At the moment, I have no physical clues to indicate that the water has penetrated.
 
S

Scott

I doubt you will leave the other tiles on the wall to be honest. Id expect them to all come down. Tile on tiles isnt a great idea as its adding too much weight to the wall, particularly if its skimmed plaster. I wouuld think a damp is the tol of choice. The 'drying' company should be able to tell you, however be aware that the longer they have their stuff on site the more they get paid so they may not tell you the whole truth!
 
M

mikethetile

I think your insurance company is being reasonable and its highly unlikely they would have sent a cowboy to assess your work, when you say accredited , who has accredited your builder, your insurers builder is a backed by your insurers

condensation can drip off and pool but why are you getting that level of condensation, in my experiance this is due to water continually running into the system and usually indicates a leak somewhere, I eplain it to mmy clients that if you run a cold tap the condensation builds up on the outside body of the tap

my advice to you is to work with your insurers on this and use their contractors,most insurers wwill pay the difference on your utility bills as part of the claim and seeing as they are prepared to put you up in a hotel , they are taking this seriously and have you well covered. if the leak has been persistant then your walls will be well soaked and its likely the weight of the tiles will pull your plaster away but this can only be assessed by finding the source of the water ingress and drying everything out

I am going to reiterate, dont get into a battle with your insurers , work with them to resolve this matter to your benefit
 
J

jdey123

Thanks, I had an FMB accredited builder around this morning and that's his recommendation too. i.e. to remove the original layer of tiles as well. He reckons there's a rule of thumb that it'll take 1 month per 1 inch of damp penetration but this is reduced by a dehumidifier. Not sure if you know of a similar rule of thumb but that sounded quite useful. I guess that if the plasters damp, they'll dig some out to see how far it's penetrated and then I'll have a clearer idea.
 
J

jdey123

I did background research on the builder. Firstly, the claims handler gave the company a "Ltd' suffix in the letter sent to me, so I checked with Companies House and there was no such company. Here, it's the claims handling company that was lying not the builder. However, looking on his website, he claimed to be NEICIC and CORGI approved neither of which were true. When I went back to the claims handling company, they told me that the builder had admitted that he wasn't directly accredited but uses subcontractors who are. Oh, that's ok then, lying about your accreditations, err no, actually it's illegal. If you recall from my first message, I wsa then told that that was their only contractor for my postcode.

I was getting that level of condensation because there was a lot of water in the units, and nowhere for it to escape to.

The insurer has only offered to do anything due to me doing battle with them. I wasted several weeks sending polite enquiries and failing to get through on their helpline. That said, I've remained polite at all times, so the battle has been more a case of escalating it up the management chain all the way to the FSA registered officer. They appear to be taking me very seriously now. I'm unconvinced with your advice that it's better to choose a company that's located 1.5 hours away from my house and that has a completely unknown background to one that I've checked out myself and is local to my area. There aren't many people who believe a "trust me, I'm an insurance company" nowadays.
 
J

jdey123

Not many cowboys pay for membership of any schemes, and I've demonstrated that I've taken reasonable steps to check out a contractor should it end up in court. A scheme has a reputation to maintain as well. The main point, however, is that with my builder, I've gone to checkatrade.com and verified that the information he's put on the site checks out. That sites good because it sets out all of their claims in 1 place. If a contractor makes a false claim then I'll find him out and not use him.
 
M

mikethetile

as long as his contractors are registered and can sign off the paperwork then its legal, it only becomes illegal when he claims he is personally registered , I think theres more to this and Im not going to get into an argument with you, I can only speak of my own experiance as a contractor on their list , I have also found them very helpfull to their clients
 

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