How would you?

[Martino]

I am tiling a kitchen in a few weeks...the walls are currently painted, in the past i have scored these with a stanley knife and used BAL white star to fix my tiles...had no known problems doing it this way.....

How would you tile a area like this?....its normal plasterboard btw...thanks in advance!

 

[nybor62]

sand the paint of , it may even wash off

 

[Martino]

and dont score the board at all?....reason for scoring it to allow the adhesive to like key into the board....wouldnt this give a better grab?

 

[kilty55]

hi martino scoring the board will weaken the board

 

[White Room]

As above, it's only the paper that hold it together...

 

[Martino]

but once the adhesive has squeezed into the score and set it would be even stronger in theory?.....how would any of you go about tiling onto paint.....strip the paint and seal the plaster? is it necessary to seal the plaster with using BAL white star

 

[kilty55]

hi thought it was boards? is it also skimmed?

 

[Martino]

plasterboard, plastered and painted

 

[cam_low]

Try removing as much of the paint as possible by sanding, washing ...rubbbing etc. Prime the walls with a reputable acrylic primer ie Ardex P51, not pva. Using a good adhesive like Bal White Star or Grip will be sufficient for kitchen walls.

 

[Rookery]

Presumably its emulsion paint. I would try washing it off. I have heard of a method that involves spreading cheap bucket adhesive (so not whitestar!) on the wall then scraping it off after some minutes and the paint comes off too. I've not tried this by the way. If you're using Whitestar you wont need to prime the wall.

 

[neal.o]

ive used a steam stripper in the past to remove paint.you could try a small area and see if it works

 

[charlie1]

Use a fein to lightly score the area, prime then tile.... No need to remove paint imo

 

[peteablard]

Use a fein to lightly score the area, prime then tile.... No need to remove paint imo

There is every need otherwise your adhesive will be stuck to the paint and not the wall........

 

[charlie1]

There is every need otherwise your adhesive will be stuck to the paint and not the wall........

No, there is not every need.... If it was a wet area with large heavy tiles then there would be every need, this is a dry area with probably thin light tiles, lightly keying the area then prime and there will be no issues. Or test area with duct tape.

 

[Martino]

just a quick reply...my dad is doing his bathroom atm the tiles he just took off are 15years old....he stuck them straight onto plasterboard...they never fell off.....what did people do before all this tiling bonding agent?....it cant have always been out?.....its very confusing as to 100% why use this?.....im in a 50/50

 

[charlie1]

I tiled my own kitchen splash about 11 years ago long before I ever went in to tiling professionaly, I used b&q addy/grout all in one, the tiles are still on and solid! Also about 9 year ago I done my bathroom with same gear, I had to make window alcove out of 12mm chipboard and primed with pva, I retiled last year just really because I didn't do the best job with it.....anyway, the tiles where all still stuck solid!

 

[JayceTrayne]

I am only an enthusiast, so cannot offer the professional level advice, but...when I was tiling my kitchen I was advised to remove as much of the paint as possible. If the paint has been there for a while, it might come off with some light sanding. I ended up removing alot with light sanding