What prep would you do here?

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Got a kitchen floor to do and it consists of a concrete floor which then meets a timber floor. It also meets another area of concrete floor which has been poured at a later date to the original floor. Whole floor needs self levelling as is up and down and old adhesive which is stuck really well etc.

My plan was to rip the old ply up on the timber part, put 22mm tongue and groove No More Ply down on it. Self level rest of the floor up to the no more ply, leaving an expansion gap. Mat the lot of it and crack on.

Customer has been to a few tiles shops for prices, one has told him mat the lot first then self level the lot. Floor has high and low points and old adhesive etc so wasn't an option for me as getting the mat stuck down will be a pain.

Another shop has told him don't need no more ply and to remove old ply and stick normal ply down on the timber part, mat on top of the ply using an s2 adhesive to stick it then self level the whole lot and tile on top with an s2 adhesive. I don't see the point in the mat on top of the timber here personally and might as well just use no more ply and not mat anything?

What would you lot do?
 
How thick is the ply on timber floor, is the timber floor solid, if not you're right rip up and replace with 22mm no more ply, if it's solid maybe replace it with same thickness cement boards, level everything and Ditra or Dural mat the lot.
 
The ply isn't bad but it's coming up anyway for pipes etc. Thinking now, replace with some thickness ply the overboard wirh 6mm hardie. Self level up to same height, leaving an expansion gap at the join. Mat the lot. Tile
 
That sounds good, I don't know why the tile shop said to use S2 to stick the mat down and for tiling, I guess they're the experts!!
Nor me. I can understand the first shop saying mat it all then self level, but with state of floor bumps wise I wouldn't do that but they didn't know floor condition.

But an s2 on just the ply to stick mat down does absolutely nothing
 

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