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T

TopicTJ

Hello, found the site when searching for information so please be gentle if I'm asking the very obvious and apologies for the detailed explanation!

I'm in the middle of a major house refurb including windows, elex and plumbing.

On the ground floor, I want to put 10 mm ceramic tiles in a toilet, kitchen and hallway (all adjoining) but with very different surfaces to cover.

The kitchen has a suspended timber floor with two areas of quarry tiles laid on concrete (sink and old range areas). The floorboards are in good condition, have all been screwed to the joists and although there are a few creaks, there seems to be very little movement.

The toilet has a solid concrete floor and was levelled with compound some years ago before the current vinyl flloring was laid.

The hall is a mixture of quarry tiles laid on an earth floor and small areas repaired with concrete many years ago. There are one or two loose quarry tiles but overall the floor seems sound and is currently covered with carpet.

Assuming the toilet floor is OK to directly tile, I'm prepared to lay 18 mm ply on top of the wooden floor (and tiles) in the kitchen if I need to but would much prefer to use No More Ply (or similar) mainly to ease the problem of different levels between the areas.

The real problem is the hallway. The local tile shop suggest removing any loose quarry tiles, "roughing-up" the rest and levelling with compound as necessary.

My builder (who is not a tiler!) is of the view that if I was to re-carpet in the hall then the floor is proven to be good enough to accept that but he imagines a tiler would probably advise a new floor.

Given the range of surfaces, size to be tiled (and cost of the tiles!) then I'm beginning to feel this is too much for my DIY tiling skills but before I call in the professionals for a quote.....any thoughts on what might be the best way to proceed?

Sorry to have gone on....


Tony
 
D

Deleted member 9966

Tony

You have come to the best place for advice. Our professional members will be able to answer questions so that you can be armed with as much information as you need to make an informed choice about whether tiling your floor can be done and is the right way forward.

Tiling is all about preparation. Your builder knows nothing about tiling, so best not to include him in anymore discussions about it.

If after you've had your questions answered, you think getting a professional in to do the work will be a better option, then just let us know. We can find you a recommended tiler from within our membership who will be able to provide a top class job for you.

:welcome:
 
M

mikethetile

couldnt have put it better myself Liz

:welcome:

the hall is best lifted and concreted if you want to lay tiles, thers lots of info on here for the asking on puoring a new floor and screeding, with a new screed there is drying times but you can also use decoupling mats and green screed addy to cut down waiting times

the kitchen floor will need overboarding, you dont want any deflection at all in the timber floor and if it squeeks theres likely to be movement, no more ply wont brace a floor but will give a better surface to tile to, at this stage of the game and with the cost of 18mm wbp it may be more cost effective to lift the existing floor and brace the floor. relay the floorboards and use nmp

wher you have different substrates you will either need an movement joint or a decouplimg mat as the concrete and wood move at different rates and will cause cracks to the tiles

on the upside you can tile directly to the concrete in the toilet area
 
Last edited by a moderator:
P

peckers

My main concerns would be the hall way floor as you have pointed out! as there are quarry tiles laid onto earth! Quarry tiles can breathe and years ago this is the way they were laid and no dpm was used etc.
If you were to just cover the quarry tiles with say ceramics porcelain tiles etc then they can no longer breathe, and if theres no dpm and there is any damp present then this will cause a problem as covering it all up then then this area will not be able to breathe. and naturally balance itself out. Hope that makes sence!
You could take this area up and relay a new base with dpm installed or there are products that you can apply over the top which can be used such as slc in damp conditions and then use a liquid dpm over the top of this etc.
This is just a guide to what could be done.
If I was you I would get a proffesional tiler in to have a look and they would be able to advise you on the best way forward! :thumbsup:
 
T

TopicTJ

Sigh......knew it was going to be a problem but guess it's pointless spending all that money on tiles (35-40 sq mts) only to see them crack.

So, many thanks for the advice, which I think suggests I should try to locate a tiler who could not only quote for the laying but provide a spec for the appropriate preparation.

Any leads to someone appropriate who covers the area around Stratford on Avon/Evesham?

T
 

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