keraquik and latexplus

[kilty55]

how many peeps use keraquik on its own to lay onto wooden floors? does anyone use latexplus as well? just a thought as my tile store doesnt hold any stock at all of latexplus so im assumin most guys use keraquik

my point being is it suitable in you guys opinion to be using on timber on its own? its specced to be mixed with latex for timber,so if most tilers are using it on its own which i thnk they are with no issues why is the spec for it different

 

[Daz]

I rarely tile onto wooden floors but when I do I will use either Ardex 7001 or Keraquick with latex (sourced via CTD or Tile Giant).

 

[united]

I have not used it with latex plus yet, it's not too cheap the latex

 

[Saltire69]

Is the latex not for floor boards Kilty. Always use Aqua panel now so kera on it's own is fine.

 

[Scott]

Ive used it on its own and had no problems. The latex is expensive but still cheaper than Ultra 2 part rubber crumb.

 

[macten]

Do you mean wooden floorboards?
Neither Keraquick and/or Keraquick + latexplus is suitable for that application.

 

[jay]

your game if you tile directly on to timber :mad2:

 

[kilty55]

no i meant ply,i called mapei tech line yesterday who said it needs to be mixed with latex for suitability for any timber,personally i dont tile onto ply any more but was just asking as it seems most tilers here use straight keraquik withyout the latex for ply floors

 

[TheWrightTiler]

used kerra on 18mm ply no probs but if had choice would use latex

just finished some slab tiles and spec was kerra and latex onto sa concretet floor

 

[macten]

18mm ply then I use keraquick unless it still has a little flex in it.

 

[Pebbs]

I always specify keraquick with latex plus, yes it does impact on the cost, but rather than having someone come back within the retention period.

Lynn

 

[macten]

Was always taught that SPF is needed for 18mm wbp ply.
Are Mapei moving the goal posts?
Imagine you have a job where you rip up floor, stregthen joists, add noggins. Floor back down overlayed with 18mm WBP ply then use keraquick for the tiles.
If those tiles failed would Mapei tech tell you the spec was wrong??

 

[kilty55]

this is exactly my point macten ,using the latex is very expansive but covers you,on the bag it states if using on timber you mix with latexplus,,so i called them and they said this includes ply so i can only assume if you used only keraquik with water and the job failed you wouldnt have a leg to stand on

either way macten i was quoting on a big kitchen floor i had 2 choices

over board the floor with cement boards and use keraquik on them and latex plus to lay on the exisitng timber before screwing

ply the floor and lay a membrane using keraquik and also latexplus

either way its was very very costly,,im askin the question as there are tonnes of guys out there it seems using keraquik on its own with water and saving a fortune on materials and its hard to try and compete by using the materials specced for the job

 

[Perry]

Thats why i never used Mapei as their admix was always diluted where most manufactures admix was undiluted therefore when up to four times further which made Mapei expensive

 

[macten]

Another reason to use cement boards I reckon.
Can't be a stability issue, maybe more to do with the water in the mix going onto the ply.

For that job Kilty I would personally overboard with NMP and use an SPF.