Maiden in distress. Sloping bathroom floor, please help!

F

Flosmum

Hi,

I'm a new member can you please help me?

My bathroom floor is chipboard and I've been advised to use Durabase matting to stabilse the floor to prevent the tiles and grouting from cracking etc, however, I've noticed that the floor slopes from one wall towards the door on the opposite wall by approx 8mm (the tiles are also approx 8mm thick). This will eventually create a difference in height between bathroom floor and landing floor (carpeted area) at the threshold which I think I could possibly overcome by using a wooden bar at the threshold, which will be shamfered on the landing side. My other problem is my new towel warmer is on legs so the floor needs to be level.

Do I (A) use a latex based levelling compound to even out the floor first, then use Durabase matting prior to tiling? Or (B) use the Durabase matting then the levelling compound?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!:hurray:
 
Is there any chance you could take the chipboard up and replace with Ply? That way you could make it level and get rid of the chipboard which has no place in a tile installation IMO. :smilewinkgrin:
 
Not sure about taking up the chipboard as the property is an old cottage, it was re-furbished many years ago, the bathroom was originally a bedroom and is in the centre of the building on the first floor. I think the joists underneath might be the reason the floor slopes.
 
If you cant take the chipboard up (always the first choice), I would over board with a backer board like No More Ply or Hardie. You can use 6mm backer instead of thick ply. Then you can use a SLC over the top of this. The problem this will give you is the difference in hight in the door way but this can be solved with a different strip.
 
Hi Flossmum,you should really consider getting rid of chip floor.. In a perfect world,remove existing flooring, pack the joists, on top, using 4mm hardboard & 6mm ply etc till level, install new flooring fully screwed 25mm, prime, perfect job! No slc or huge amounts of adhesive,extra time & materials will off set the cost of a rip out. You can then check your plumbing & insulation/soundproofing, electrics, etc.existing underneath, rather than worrying about screwing through a pipe! to secure your existing floor well enough to tile over.Weigh up the costs against a good job, there will be little difference in price, but a huge difference in quality. A reciprocating saw will cut tight to the wall, even a skill saw with the correct depth cut will do the job for a perimeter cut,all be it leaving30mm of the old floor in place. Yes a tapered/eased threshold will accommodate your new levels...Good huinting
 

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Maiden in distress. Sloping bathroom floor, please help!
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Flosmum,
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faithhealer,
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Flosmum,
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