Mick's Speedy Tiling Tips

[MICK the Tiler]

Just going through a few threads and have noticed there are alot of novice and first time tilers posting on this forum and all seem to be concerned about how long things can take. This is true tiling can be tedious and slow at times and you need the patience of a saint on some projects.

So I thought I might share some tips and tricks with the new folk on how to do some things more efficently. The pros should know most of them by now so this post is aimed at the "GREEN AS GRASS" new tilers. So on to the trick of the week.

THIS WEEKS TRICK

DOING MULTIPLE STRAIGHT CUTS

At some point you are going to have to do alot of straight cuts be it on a floor or on walls this method works on both except walls where you'll have to mark each tile, but for this example we'll look at floor tiles.

So you've just laid the main body of your floor and you just have the cuts to do most new too tiling will grab the tap measure and begin on one side of the tile then the other and transfer these marks to the tile and the cut and fit. But for this tip you can put the tape back in the toolbox and just grab 4 or 5 tiles and lay them out upside down where they are to go, pushing them hard up against the wall then place a mark allowing for a space and wall clearance sighting down over the tile where it overlapps the last full tile go to the number 5 tile and do the same then using a straight edge draw a line connecting the 2 marks. Number the tiles 1-5 and cut on cutter then test fit continue on down the wall until you have cut all the tiles then flip them back and glue them in. It will take some practice and a little time to get it right but once mastered can save alot of valuable time.

Ths method can also be adobted for wall corner cuts as well as wall to floor cuts you simply turn the tile so the back is facng out push good edge into corner or onto floor and mark leaving grout line and clearance do a series and then cut on the tile cutter no measuring required.

Hope you enjoy reading this weeks tips and tricks. Try it on your next project You'll soon be amazed at how quick it can be.



NEXT WEEK !!!!!

Corner cut-outs using the tile cutter :huh2:

 

[DHTiling]

Re: Speedy Tiler Tips

cheers mick.. i will sticky this thread to make it more noticeable ....

 

[MICK the Tiler]

Re: Micks... Speedy Tiler Tips..

This weeks Speedy Tiler Tip.


Corner cut-outs with the Tile Cutter.


This particular teqnique for doing cut outs is especially good when working with larger format tiles around windows and doors, as well as cutting around kitchen cuppboards and external corners on floors. It helps reduce time taken cutting with the angle grinder or wet cutter and also reduces chipping when doing a series of longer cuts, it is quite easy to do and can be mastered in a very short period of time. It will increase your productivity and improve the final finish of your work. So enough of the CHIT CHAT and onto the trick.

1. Mark the position of the cut- out on the tile (Refer to Attachments)

2. using the angle grinder cut the shortest side of the cut-out

3. place the tile on your tile cutter and score from the edge of the tile til you meet the grinder cut, then using the breaker bar snap tile as you would on a full straight cut.

4. clean up any waste left in the corner with your nips or angle grinder, Then check for fit.


NEXT WEEK Tips for using the Angle Grinder.

 

[trebor]

Re: Micks... Speedy Tiler Tips..

thanks for these Mick, keep em comin please

 

[Neil TileTastic]

Re: Micks... Speedy Tiler Tips..

hi mick howz it goin m8?

was wondering if you could tell me the best way to cut the corner tiles in the pic below if you no what i mean?

( the way i would cut the angle corner tiles for a conservatory would be with a template but it takes to long ya no, is there a better way to do it m8?

p.s i also hav an angle finder tool but the job iam at now the angle finder isnt big enough if ya no what i mean m8 lol

 

[Gazzer]

Re: Micks... Speedy Tiler Tips..

This aint big enough ???
broken link removed

 

[strongboes]

Re: Micks... Speedy Tiler Tips..

Which corner tiles are you on about mate?

 

[Neil TileTastic]

Re: Micks... Speedy Tiler Tips..

iam doing a conservatory and the 2 walls at bothsides are running in a angle and i was wondering what way would be the best to make the tiles to do these cutz, at the min i just lay all my tiles then use a paper template the same size as the tile to get the shape of the angle then i cut the template and place it on the tile and then cut the tile, but there must be a better way to do it as it takes a bit of a while doin it this way,

many thanx neil

 

[Gazzer]

Re: Micks... Speedy Tiler Tips..

Follow the link i posted above Neil. Thats what you need.

 

[Neil TileTastic]

Re: Micks... Speedy Tiler Tips..

many thanx sir ramic it was putting my head away i knew there had to be a gadet like that 1 lol, is there a site to order 1 of them m8? iam in n.ireland but ive never seen them here like.

many thanx again for the replies lads.

keep er tiling

 

[MICK the Tiler]

Re: Micks... Speedy Tiler Tips..

Hi Neil,

I too really like the jig tool posted by Sir ramic very handy to have in the tool kit.

Although I don't use one. I use a piece of 20mmx20mm pine moulding with one end cut at a 45 deg angle and place this against the wall acting as the tile edge, then mark with a pencil the other end allowing for a tile spacer, flip it over and mark the other side (Only if angle is greater or in some way differs from 45deg) then place the stick onto tile lining the pencil mark up with the edge of the tile and mark the 45deg cut end the place on cutter and score and snap, should fit sweet.

There are plenty of other ways to scribe tile angles but i find this method quick and inexpensive although I might just get me on of those jigs

I'll try and post a pic of what i'm waffling about as it will be alot easier to visualize.

Glad you are enjoying the posts.

Cheers Mick

 

[Gazzer]

Re: Micks... Speedy Tiler Tips..

many thanx sir ramic it was putting my head away i knew there had to be a gadet like that 1 lol, is there a site to order 1 of them m8? iam in n.ireland but ive never seen them here like.

many thanx again for the replies lads.

keep er tiling

Try this, scroll to bottom of the page and you will see 2 items, one is cheaper than the other.
http://www.tradetiler.com/acatalog/tilie_cutter_setting_out_and_tile_marking.html

 

[MICK the Tiler]

Re: Micks... Speedy Tiler Tips..

Ok I know what you are all going to say "WHERE'S THIS WEEKS TIPS" Well i'm still in the process of compiling more information and pictures I've been flat out at the mom so be patient and bare with me and I promise to have them for you shortly.

But as a prelude to the tips I thought i might post some of the more mundane and boring but vitally important issues about the angle grinder.

So have a read and get familiar and keep an eye out for the tips to come

Cheers Mick

Angle Grinders

Overview

Angle grinders are one of the handiest tools to use.
Unfortunately, angle grinders also frequently cause
serious injuries among home handymen. Kickback,
where the angle grinder disc is thrust away from the
object it is grinding, can result in severe cuts to hands,
arms, head, torso and legs. Discs can shatter or explode,
sending pieces fl ying. Many angle grinder injuries are
from metal particles lodging in the operator’s eye.

Before Starting

Before starting work with an angle grinder, ask yourself
the following questions:

• Is grinding work necessary? Could a different tool be
used with less risk?

• Am I using the correct size angle grinder for the job?
Is there a risk of losing control of a heavier, more
powerful tool? Could a smaller model be used for
some or all of the work?

• Is the correct disc used for the job, depending on the
type of material being worked on and the size of the
disc?

• Does the guard cover half the disc between the
operator and the disc?

• Does the grinder have an automatic cut-off or
"deadman" switch as part of the hand grip, ensuring
power is cut off as soon as fi nger pressure is
released?

Deadman switch kits are available for older models. (A
deadman switch may not be appropriate for certain tasks
with small angle grinders.)

Safe Work Practices

Do not attempt any tasks with an angle grinder without
following safety procedures.

The following will help protect against injury:

1. Always wear safety goggles to avoid eye injuries
caused by fl ying debris and sparks from angle
grinders.

2. When operating the angle grinder, be careful that the
sparks don’t hit you or anyone else. Sparks can cause
burns, eye injuries, wear out clothing and even set
clothes on fi re.

3. Keep a fi rm grip when using your angle grinder.

4. Ensure the safety guard on your angle grinder is
positioned between the cutting blade and your hands.
Never remove the guard.

5. Wear ear protection to prevent ear damage from
grinder noise.

6. Don’t let the grinding discs wear below the
recommended safety limits as they may shatter.

7. The switches on angle grinders are sensitive and can
be easily knocked into the ‘ON’ position. So when
changing blades, switch off the power at the power
point and pull the plug out of the socket.

8. Always keep angle grinders and other power tools in a
locked cupboard, well out of the reach of children.

Electrical Safety

Angle grinders should be checked for electrical safety
before every use to ensure that:

• there are no breaks or damage to the machine’s outer
body;

• all screws are tight;

• brush caps are intact and fi rmly in position;

• the sheathing of fl exible cord is held fi rmly at the tool;

• there are no exposed wires;
• cords are in good condition, free from cuts and
breaks;

• plugs and extension cords are free from cuts or
damage.

 

[MICK the Tiler]

Re: Micks... Speedy Tiler Tips..

Ok so now we got the Safety part of the thread out of the way. We can now concentrate on wheel selection and a quick guide on the different types of materials you may come across when working with tile and how diamond blades work and on what material.

This is by no means a definitive explaination and i've tried to keep alot of the very technical stuff out of it so all you guys and gals who are new to tilng can get an easier grasp of some of the expalainations.

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Understanding Diamond Blades[/FONT]​

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]In general, a diamond blade's performance is measured in two ways. The first is how proficiently the blade grinds through the material, and the second is the life of the blade; or the total footage yielded by the blade.[/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]When you select the best suited diamond blade for the job/application/material, you will ensure peak performance and maximum investment return.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Diamond blades consist of four components: diamond crystals, a bonding system, a segment, and a metal core.[/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Diamond Crystals - The diamond crystals are synthetic (man-made) rather than natural. This gives them a consistency that can be relied upon during the enormous stresses they encounter while grinding. The foremost performance factor in diamond blade sawing is the type, concentration and size of these diamond crystals.[/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Bonding Matrix - Diamond crystals are held in place by a sintering process of specially blended metal powders. This bonding matrix is crucial to the overall performance of the diamond blade, and serves several vital functions:[/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]•Disperses and supports the diamonds[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]•Provides controlled wear while allowing diamond protrusion[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]•Prevents diamond "pull-out"[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]•Acts as a heat sink[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]•Distributes impact and load as the diamond attacks the cutting surface[/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]During the sawing action, the wearing away of the matrix exposes new diamond crystals providing fresh cutting points for the blade.[/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Metal Bonds - The diamond crystals and bonding matrix are heated and shaped into specially engineered rims/segments. These rims/segments are wider than the blade core to which they will be attached, and provide the clearance to promote material discharge and discourage blade binding. The rims/segments are specifically designed to wear at a rate appropriate to the material being cut. Large particles of soft, abrasive materials wear down the matrix faster than the small particles removed from hard dense materials. Therefore, softer, more abrasive materials require a "tough to wear" (hard) bond; and less-abrasive materials require an "easy wear" (soft) bond.[/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Premium Steel Core - The diamond saw blade cores are made from high alloy, heat treated steel. Depending on the type of blade selected, the steel cores are specifically designed to support the appropriate rim or segment. About the periphery of the core, the various rims or segments are affixed through a brazing or laser welding process. An arbor hole is precisely bored in the center, and the entire core is "tensioned" or tuned; so that the stresses of centripetal force are minimized permitting the blade to spin true on the spindle.[/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]How the Diamond Blade Works[/FONT]​

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Diamond blades do not really cut, they grind the material through an action of friction with the synthetic diamond bonding matrix. The diamond crystals, often visible at the leading edge and sides of the rim/segment, remove material by scratching out particles of hard, dense materials, or by knocking out larger particles of loosely bonded abrasive material. This process eventually cracks or fractures the diamond particle; breaking it down into smaller pieces. As a result of this phenomenon, a diamond blade for cutting soft, abrasive material must have a hard metal matrix composition to resist this erosion long enough for the exposed diamonds to be properly utilized. Conversely, a blade for cutting a hard, non-abrasive material must have a soft bond to ensure that it will erode and expose the diamonds embedded in the matrix. These simple principles are the foundation of "controlled bond erosion".[/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Types of Diamond Blade Cutting[/FONT]​

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]There are two basic types of cutting-Dry or Wet. The choice of which type of blade to use depends on:[/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]•The requirements of the job[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]•The machine/tool utilizing the diamond blade[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]•The preference of the operator[/FONT]


[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]In the case of DRY cutting, the overwhelming popularity and quantity of hand-held saws and the flexible nature of MK Diamond blades to professionally handle most ceramic, masonry, stone and concrete materials, make the DRY cutting blade a very attractive tool.[/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]When using a DRY blade, the user must be aware of distinct operating practices to ensure optimum performance. DRY cutting blades require sufficient airflow about the blade to prevent overheating of the steel core. This is best accomplished by shallow, intermittent cuts of the material along with periods of "free-spinning" for several seconds to maximize the cooling process.[/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]During wet cutting operations, liberal amounts of water act as a coolant to support the cutting effectiveness and longevity of the WET blade. Additionally, using water adds to the overall safety of cutting operations by keeping the dust signature down.[/FONT]

 

[MICK the Tiler]

Re: Micks... Speedy Tiler Tips..

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]What You Should Know About Asphalt[/FONT]​

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Hot Mix Asphalt (HMA) is a mixture of Asphalt Cement (a petroleum based "glue" that comprises less than 8%, by weight, the total pavement mixture) and Aggregates (various sized stones, dust, hard inert materials and sand; comprising approximately 92%, by weight, the remaining pavement mixture.) Asphalt does not cure in the sense that concrete does, and once spread and rolled, it can be cut or drilled almost immediately. Unlike cured concrete, sand in asphalt never bonds as firmly, and the slurry created when sawing will be extremely abrasive. A bond matrix similar to cutting green concrete and undercutting protection steel cores are important factors when undertaking asphalt cutting operations. Some unique factors should be observed when cutting asphalt:[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]•Hard & large sized Aggregates in the asphalt will cause the blade to cut slower.
•The greater the Aggregate-Sand ratio, the faster the blade will cut, but total footage may decrease.
•Total asphalt depth can vary. It is common to cut through the asphalt layer into the sub-base. Generally, the sub-base contains a high content of very abrasive materials such as sand, dirt, dusts and like-materials. This undesirable situation causes rapid wear of the diamond blade.
•Chunks or broken up asphalt to be cut often attracts dirt and sand fillers within the cracks. This, too, will make the asphalt more abrasive and affect the life of the diamond blade.[/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]What You Should Know About Ceramic[/FONT]​

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Tile Ceramic products are varied and depending on their manufacturing processess, they exhibit their own special qualities and properties. The hardness of the cramic material is directly attributed to its manufacturing process, and generally references the Mohs Scale to categorize its hardness.[/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]The Manufacturing Process[/FONT]​

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Ceramic tile production begins with the excavation of clays to be used in the manufacturing process. Depending on the type of tile being produced, any number of two to six different types and colors of clay may be necessary to blend together in a mixture.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]The selected bulk clays are mixed with water and this mixture is pumped into large, rotating cylindrical mills, where extreme grinding action pulverizes the clay into uniform and homogenous particles. This substrate is called "body-slip", and has the consistency of a milk shake.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Next, moisture from the body-slip is evaporated by a spray dryer burner; creating fine particles of uniformly sized dry clay called "powder". The powder is then fed into molds within a hydraulic press, where it is molded into pressures of approximately 4,000 PSI to form "green ware" (what the tile is called prior to being fired). The green ware is dried again to further reduce the moisture content, and then travels down "glaze lines' where various types of glazes are applied to the surface.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]The glazed green ware travels through a kiln and undergoes a 45-50 minute firing where temperatures can reach 2300°F causing the glaze to fuse to the body. The tile that emerges from this process is very hard, durable and impact resistant.[/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Hardness of Ceramic Tiles[/FONT]​

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]•Water absorption rate, glazes, compression and material all determine the hardness of ceramic tile.
•The percentage of water absorption by the tile body determines whether the ceramic tile is Impervious, Vitreous, Semi-Vitreous, or Non-Vitreous. From Impervious, where absorption rates of 15% and higher, harness factors change.
•Most glazes fall in the 5 to b Mobs Scale range. However, certain types of floor and porcelain tiles can have compressive strengths of 10,000 PSI and a Mobs hardness factor of 8.[/FONT]

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