Discuss Mosaics onto artex walls in the British & UK Tiling Forum area at TilersForums.com.

T

Turkish

Hi everyone, Need some help,

Q1: Been to look at a job this morning. Basically a kitchen splashback and then carrying on around 2 more walls. The house is 1960`s and one wall is covered in a very solid quite rough finish artex. I don`t want to scrape this as it will take forever and also cos of the risk of asbestos. To fix mosaics (and i think they`re about one inch square tiles on a sheet) could i prime wall with neat Bal Bond SBR then smooth the artex with a flexi rapidset adhesive, re-prime then tile??? I think the mosaics may be natural stone but not sure what type yet.

Q2: For you plasterers out there, i have a ledge to tile but it is very warped. I want to stick a bit of plasterboard onto the ledge to make it flat then tile but the gap at the front edge and edge of the plasteboard will show. How can i finish this of so it is flush with the face of the wall with no gap showing? Hope you get what i mean.

Q3: Again for the plasterers, I`m tiling along a wall with mosaics up to but not into the reveal of a doorway but the reveal needs to be plastered. If i put a corner bead on the corner to plaster up to won`t it then make the last vertical row of tiles bend out? Can i finish the edge of the tiles with a trim overhanging the edge of the reveal by a couple of mm then plaster up to that using the tile trim as a corner bead?

Sorry it`s such a long thread. Hope you can help!:surrender:

Thanks

Turkish
 
M

mc497

Hey Turkish,
Theres not really any hard and fast rules to this sort of thing,
As I am originally a plasterer by trade I would probably just plaster over the artexed wall, regarding Q1 so I couldn't really answer you on that one.
With the gap between the wallboard and the ledge you could always fill in the gap with a one coat plaster (for instance) making sure you tape up the joint with a scrim tape, personally I would bring the tape up and over the ledge a touch if you can. When you then put a new piece of board on the ledge (I presume you would dot and dab it into place) the plaster will cover the scrim and hold the joint tight. As for finishing the gap you should be able to get a good finish with a one coat plaster, but if your not sure, then what the hell just polyfilla over it and sand it out when your ready.(all of this is assuming the gap of which you speak is a fairly large or deep gap.
As for Q3 I dont see why you idea wouldn't work, but if you do this make sure you pva the rear side of the trim as plaster does shrink a little when dry and you want it to stick dont you, ie you dont want a small gap/crack between the new plaster and the back of the trim.
But hey look, as I said, no hard and fast rules really, Im sure theres all sorts of solutions ie cover up with trim of some sort, fill gaps with expanding foam, UGHH..!
What a long boring reply this is , and not even giving you a definate answer really, LOL...!:mad2:
 
Last edited by a moderator:
T

Turkish

Hi Grumps,

Thought of the dot and dab but there are a few sockets to go round and then there`s the added problem of finishing off the exposed edge because on that particular wall there are no cupboards going above the tiles.

As for re-priming that`s my inexperience mate, just thought it would assist in ensuring the adhesive bed for the tiling will bond securely but i guess it makes no difference?:huh2:

Turkish
 
T

Turkish

Hey Turkish,
Theres not really any hard and fast rules to this sort of thing,
As I am originally a plasterer by trade I would probably just plaster over the artexed wall, and I havn't used the product you mentioned regarding Q1 so I couldn't really answer you on that one.
With the gap between the wallboard and the ledge you could always fill in the gap with a one coat plaster (for instance) making sure you tape up the joint with a scrim tape, personally I would bring the tape up and over the ledge a touch if you can. When you then put a new piece of board on the ledge (I presume you would dot and dab it into place) the plaster will cover the scrim and hold the joint tight. As for finishing the gap you should be able to get a good finish with a one coat plaster, but if your not sure, then what the hell just polyfilla over it and sand it out when your ready.(all of this is assuming the gap of which you speak is a fairly large or deep gap.
As for Q3 I dont see why you idea wouldn't work, but if you do this make sure you pva the rear side of the trim as plaster does shrink a little when dry and you want it to stick dont you, ie you dont want a small gap/crack between the new plaster and the back of the trim.
But hey look, as I said, no hard and fast rules really, Im sure theres all sorts of solutions ie cover up with trim of some sort, fill gaps with expanding foam, UGHH..!
What a long boring reply this is , and not even giving you a definate answer really, LOL...!:mad2:


Not boring to me mate, thanks for taking the time to reply and sharing your ideas!:yes:

Turkish
 
G

grumpygrouter

Sorry Turkish, didn't realise it was only a part wall. However, you could finish off the exposed edge by putting a run of cut mosaics along it. I did something similar recently and I posted pictures in the thread. The customer was very impressed with the finished look. As for the sockets plasterboard is easy to cut and all you would need is longer screws for the face plate.

Grumpy
 

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