"Your posts are farcical. You claim there is no need to tank plasterboard in a shower before tiling. British Gypsum don't even recommend plasterboard (you know, THEIR product) be used in showers! Look at their website and see for yourself. You cowboy idiot.
Oh no, wait. Because you've "been doing it this way for 40 years" that means you must be right.
Then you ask "what fire regulations". Jesus Christ. You're unfit to be doing ANY work in people's houses. You have no idea what the basic building regulations and water regulations state. You're a disgrace. A joke mate.
FYI, you have to have a continuous line of board adhesive the entire width of all boards up by the ceiling. This is to prevent fire developing on the backside of the board and spreading upstairs. Fire needs two things in order to spread: a source of fuel (such as the paper from plasterboard) and oxygen.
You'd know if you ever spent a day in your life.
Best thing you can do pal is keep your mouth shut, because by posting your idiotic, ignorant dross, you're just proving to other tilers, and customers, that you're a proper rogue trader and moron.
That's all."
well,ive just had a nice message off tilsley saying i am a cowbow,read above,so i thought id post it in the open forum.
soooo lets to to your point 1
plasterboard has been used for decades in showers ,tiled on with tubbed addy or cement addy,with no problems by myself,yes some have failed (not mine)but some aint.if water gets behind tiles the tanking will stop it destroying the backboard,but it won't stop it deteriorating the addy and ruining the tiling.how many showers,domestic or commercial changing rooms have been tiled over the decades without tanking and NOT failed:yikes:
it is quite new that british gypsum have said 'don't use plasterboard in showers,or the world will end' ,they did not say it in the 80s or 90s,not sure about the 2000s,but i think plasterboard was still recommended in domestic showers.
as i stated ,i said tanking is there for a secondery defence against water ingress,but as i also said,if its done right there won't be a problem
point 2
drylining.
you do not put continuous dabs around boards to stop fire,that my friend is the daftest thing i have ever heard,go on a big job and have a look youngun(im taking your only a kid with your childish message) ,ive been on sites from council to million pound houses and apart from sound proofing all dabs are apart.(maybe somewhere british stranded says this,but in all the extentions,houses ,commercial jobs ive drylined,not once has the building inspector,architect or jumped up little tiler like yourself said this to me or lads,or any other tradesman i know)
as whitebeam said,you fill all gaps for air circulation,i take it you have sent whitebeam a silly message for his stupid qoute of his?
you put continuous dabs if its being sound proofed with sound boards,drylining was intended for a few things,to quicken drying times for decorating and to form a secondary cavity.
lets think about this for a second my obnoxious jerkjockey,you say its for fire(im laughing here:lol so my clever obnoxious jerkjockey,explain wooden partitions or metal partition and your super duper theory about fire spreading,in possibly all houses,factorys and office building ect,every partition is either metal or wood stud,this is more of a problem to a fire hazzard not drylining a blockwall with dabs 5" apart :lol:
so like i said in my reply to my email, i live in burnley,you have a problem with me and want to shut my mouth for me,catch a train or jump in your van and come up,im happy to talk with such a experienced boy like yourself,im sure my lads would love being called cowboys as well.
oh and ive posted this in the public forum so ,they the public can look me up and check my 'cowboy' work out www.facebook.com/withnelltiling
hell ring dom and melinder up as well tilsley,they can come and have a look at my work,from the 80s or nowadays,,id love to be on tele id even have a crack at melinder :drool5:
thats all**yawn**
Oh no, wait. Because you've "been doing it this way for 40 years" that means you must be right.
Then you ask "what fire regulations". Jesus Christ. You're unfit to be doing ANY work in people's houses. You have no idea what the basic building regulations and water regulations state. You're a disgrace. A joke mate.
FYI, you have to have a continuous line of board adhesive the entire width of all boards up by the ceiling. This is to prevent fire developing on the backside of the board and spreading upstairs. Fire needs two things in order to spread: a source of fuel (such as the paper from plasterboard) and oxygen.
You'd know if you ever spent a day in your life.
Best thing you can do pal is keep your mouth shut, because by posting your idiotic, ignorant dross, you're just proving to other tilers, and customers, that you're a proper rogue trader and moron.
That's all."
well,ive just had a nice message off tilsley saying i am a cowbow,read above,so i thought id post it in the open forum.
soooo lets to to your point 1
plasterboard has been used for decades in showers ,tiled on with tubbed addy or cement addy,with no problems by myself,yes some have failed (not mine)but some aint.if water gets behind tiles the tanking will stop it destroying the backboard,but it won't stop it deteriorating the addy and ruining the tiling.how many showers,domestic or commercial changing rooms have been tiled over the decades without tanking and NOT failed:yikes:
it is quite new that british gypsum have said 'don't use plasterboard in showers,or the world will end' ,they did not say it in the 80s or 90s,not sure about the 2000s,but i think plasterboard was still recommended in domestic showers.
as i stated ,i said tanking is there for a secondery defence against water ingress,but as i also said,if its done right there won't be a problem
point 2
drylining.
you do not put continuous dabs around boards to stop fire,that my friend is the daftest thing i have ever heard,go on a big job and have a look youngun(im taking your only a kid with your childish message) ,ive been on sites from council to million pound houses and apart from sound proofing all dabs are apart.(maybe somewhere british stranded says this,but in all the extentions,houses ,commercial jobs ive drylined,not once has the building inspector,architect or jumped up little tiler like yourself said this to me or lads,or any other tradesman i know)
as whitebeam said,you fill all gaps for air circulation,i take it you have sent whitebeam a silly message for his stupid qoute of his?
you put continuous dabs if its being sound proofed with sound boards,drylining was intended for a few things,to quicken drying times for decorating and to form a secondary cavity.
lets think about this for a second my obnoxious jerkjockey,you say its for fire(im laughing here:lol
so my clever obnoxious jerkjockey,explain wooden partitions or metal partition and your super duper theory about fire spreading,in possibly all houses,factorys and office building ect,every partition is either metal or wood stud,this is more of a problem to a fire hazzard not drylining a blockwall with dabs 5" apart :lol: so like i said in my reply to my email, i live in burnley,you have a problem with me and want to shut my mouth for me,catch a train or jump in your van and come up,im happy to talk with such a experienced boy like yourself,im sure my lads would love being called cowboys as well.
oh and ive posted this in the public forum so ,they the public can look me up and check my 'cowboy' work out www.facebook.com/withnelltiling
hell ring dom and melinder up as well tilsley,they can come and have a look at my work,from the 80s or nowadays,,id love to be on tele id even have a crack at melinder :drool5:
thats all**yawn**
