Need advice waterproof tile adhesive/grout and tanking

[beanz]

At least 6 months and more, with the cold weather kicking in keep in a warm,ish area though

Cheers for the tips, i'd better get it outa the garage lol!

 

[Tonto]

Dear Stan and everyone,

Thank you again for your advice. You of course realise why I called myself "Tonto" - cowboys best friend - well I used to be. Because I do all the DIY and house maintenance (the bits I can reach being so small) I have been ripped off, or should I say, not advised properly before. So thanks to you guys and the internet, at least I can do my research beforehand, so next time someone comes in and sees I'm on my own and tries it on, I can now be prepared!

Right, think I've got it now - will go to Toptiles, Slough, phoning before hand to see if they stock the full range of products unless anyone can recommend somewhere else in the Windsor/Slough area.

All I need now is a plasterer. I found a good one in the Slough area and even though plastering two small showers is a piddly job for him, being so busy - lucky thing, he is prepared to come out. I sort of offered to chase out the old plaster - well half way up the damp wall which should come off just by breathing on it, but a bit scared of doing it futher up where the plaster isn't wet, just in case I knock the rest of the bathroom walls out! But it will save him time if I can do as much as I can before he comes.

He helped me out once before when I started knocking out bricks in an old fireplace to fit a range cooker in and thought that the whole chimney and house was going to fall down, just because I needed extra inches to get the range in the gap! Anyway can thoroughly recommend him.

Again, many thanks. Very kind of you all to explain things to me and when it's all done, shower is up and working, I'll let you know.

 

[beanz]

Why don't you just get a tiler to do the whole job? You shouldn't really need a plasterer, as you'll just end up having to wait for the plaster to dry, so you're losing more time. Is the damp plaster on a brick/block wall, or is it plasterboard? Either way, i'd be tempted to just remove and replace with Aquapanel, or equivalent.

I'm sure Dave would be able to recommend a decent tiler in the area. If i was a little more experienced, i'd give you a quote, as you're quite local, but this is a bit too much for me to take on at the moment unfortunately..

 

[Tonto]

Tonto rides again - you must all be fed up with me by now.

Appreciate your comments about tiler doing plastering - my tiler/chippie/handyman admits he doesn't plaster - at least he's honest about it. And from my very limited knowledge, plastering is an art form - it's just got to be, especially as I've had two disasters from so-called full time "accredited" plasterers/tilers before and I'd rather use the guy who did a brilliant job for me recently and I trust. In any event, I have to wait for plaster to dry, then tank it, and then when I've saved up, can get my tiler/plumber to come in and tile and fit shower. I know it's a long way round, and I'm sure there are good tilers/plasterers out there, but the thought of getting more guys in giving me estimates and run the risk of them saying they'll turn up and then don't (yes that's happened before), rather stick to the plasterer I know and trust.

Incidentally, does anyone know approximately a daily rate that plasterers charge - or is that a daft question? :lol:

Another daft question - I'm going to buy the materials myself and he said I must get the best quality sealant thinggy (the stuff you put in a gun) to run round edges of tray and stuff - can you recommend the best white bathroom/shower sealant. Definitely won't get it from that place beginning with W and ending in S.rrr:

 

[mags]

Tonto rides again - you must all be fed up with me by now.

Appreciate your comments about tiler doing plastering - my tiler/chippie/handyman admits he doesn't plaster - at least he's honest about it. And from my very limited knowledge, plastering is an art form - it's just got to be, especially as I've had two disasters from so-called full time "accredited" plasterers/tilers before and I'd rather use the guy who did a brilliant job for me recently and I trust. In any event, I have to wait for plaster to dry, then tank it, and then when I've saved up, can get my tiler/plumber to come in and tile and fit shower. I know it's a long way round, and I'm sure there are good tilers/plasterers out there, but the thought of getting more guys in giving me estimates and run the risk of them saying they'll turn up and then don't (yes that's happened before), rather stick to the plasterer I know and trust.

Incidentally, does anyone know approximately a daily rate that plasterers charge - or is that a daft question? :lol:

Another daft question - I'm going to buy the materials myself and he said I must get the best quality sealant thinggy (the stuff you put in a gun) to run round edges of tray and stuff - can you recommend the best white bathroom/shower sealant. Definitely won't get it from that place beginning with W and ending in S.rrr:

If it just boarding out then anyone can turn teir hand to it , but skimming is a difficult job.

Good plasterers up here you can get for as little at £70 a day.

Silicone sealer use good brands like Mapei as they have less filers and are less likely to crack.

 

[beanz]

My point is that you don't need to plaster. No point plastering a wall just to put tiles over the top of it hehe! Quicker (and probably flatter) to just put boards up.

As for pricing, a decent plasterer around your neck of the woods will usually want a minimum of £150 a day (even in these hard times), one of my mates charges £200 a day (and is still getting that now). If you let him get his own materials, it'll usually cost you less, as he'll probably get a decent discount. Plus with Silicon, he'll be better off using what he's used to, as they can vary a bit. That store you mention has particularly nasty Silicon that i won't EVER use again lol!

I'm curious as to why you're using your "trusted" plumber/tiler, when you clearly don't trust his judgement on what materials to use!?!

 

[Tonto]

In reply to "Beanz" - sent a reply yesterday to another forum by mistake. Dohhhhhhhhhhhhhh.

You say why plaster and not just plasterboard. Firstly the plasterboard would have to be very thin as after tiling the shower wall will have to be flush with the rest of the bathroom.

The two sections of shower wall, where I've taken half the wet plaster off, is brick. One of the walls is an outside wall the mortar is gone, there are holes every where and I can actually see daylight and a view to the garden. There is also white salty bits and bobbles on the brickwork on the outside, exactly where water has got through from the shower wall. The other wall has my son's room the other side - again where moisture has seeped through the holes in the grout.

I know I appear to be completely dense, but if you have a brick wall, what is the point of covering it with plasterboard and not rectifying the brickwork behind it? So putting plasterboard on the shower walls would be quicker, cheaper but just cosmetic but it would still leave me with holes and gaps in the bricks behind the plasterboard wouldn't it?

Say I moved into an old house and there was a kitchen with no fittings and the brick walls had holes everywhere, and you could see day light through some of the gaps - you wouldn't just plasterboard the whole kitchen without repointing or replacing some of the bricks and plastering the wall to get a good flat finish before you fitted out the kitchen would you?

I could sort of understand if a house was a new build with stud walls, but normally I presume bathrooms or part of the walls of a bathroom will be on the interior of an outside wall where the plumbing and drainage pipes go down the side of the house into a drain?

Or am I talking rubbish? Again, appreciate your comments.

 

[jay]

hi tonto yes you are right deffo fix your brick wall then plaster as for silicone just make sure its compatable with your warerproofing or membrane hope this helps :8:

 

[Deleted member 9966]

Tonto

With every post you write, i get more concerned about the amount of work that needs doing.

Correct me if I am wrong, but you are now saying you have removed the old damp plaster from the wall that it an outside/brick wall, and since doing so, you can see that the brickwork and pointing has deteriorated to the point where you can see through it into the garden?

You are correct that you need to rectify the brickwork both externally and internally before replastering. I think Beanz and the rest of us did not realise that the brick wall involved had deteriorated in such a manner. Your brick wall sounds like it is soaked through.

I would wholeheartedly recommend speaking to your house insurance provider. It may not be as simple as re-patching the pointing where water has soaked through the bricks. You need to consider how much damage the water has done to the brick wall and where else it may have seeped to. For the sake of paying your excess, it may be cheaper than paying a brickie yourself to come in and repair the damage.

You need to get your brick wall sorted before you can even consider re-boarding, tanking and tiling.

In my bathroom (modern, new build property), my walls are red brick, cavity, breeze block, and then plasterboard attached to the breeze block. I am guessing that your house is quite old and that the brick walls are merely 1 brick's thickness to the outside.

Liz

 

[Diamond Pool Finishers]

firstly it sounds to me like penertrating damp, if there is no reason outside the damp patch ie, down pipes leaking, leaking gutter above,or bridged damp course, its were the pointing is weak/failing and obviousely leaking, why dont you get a dampproofing company out to have a look and give you a free estimate and then you will know wots wrong

 

[Nardini]

You MUST get that wall sorted out first - before you start thinking of any interior work. As already said, the job sounds as though it is getting to the point where the easiest and cheapest solution for you in the longer term would be to rebuild the wall, cutting out all of the damaged, wet and salt laden bricks - to say nothing of the damaged mortar. Only after you have a sound wall that can keep the rain out and the damp down would it be wise to think about your tiling project.

 

[beanz]

Tonto, like everyone else, i wasn't aware of the extent of your problem. No point even worrying about the shower yet, need to get the brickwork sorted first.

 

[Dan]

Just bumping some of the older popular (sometimes not so popular) threads. Probably wont be current discussion these days but I just need to do it. So just ignore the thread if it's not current for you.