Discuss New Tilers Support - 2 in the British & UK Tiling Forum area at TilersForums.com.

D

doit4u

I sympathise with the old problem of time/cost. I have been at it for a couple of years initially part-time and now full time but I still don't seem to get it right some of the time. I shy away from giving a fixed price and will only give estimates and tell the cutomer the hourly rate then if you hit problems and explain them I find most people are OK.

I do decorating and other small DIY type jobs as well as tiling and I found with fixed prices the customer will often add in extra bits "could you just do this while your here" and then seem surprised when the bill comes to more than the quote.

I also struggled with pricing for a while and as I live in a rural area thought the fairest way to charge was time on the job plus mileage as I was asked to travel up to 20+ miles to a job, but quite a few people commented that others didn't charge for travelling. You have got to cover the costs/ time somehow so I finally decided with advise from Business Eye {Welsh business advisory service} to increase my hourly rate a bit and not charge travelling within a 10 mile radius. I f people want me after that I explain the extra costs and then its up to them. I never say I won't go the distance but receently suggested to a potential customer that it might be cheaper to look for someone more loacal as they were 35 miles away.

Chris
 
S

slimhoare

i wanna tile my kitchen. I am installing 24x12 porcellan tile. everybody talks about 5/8 plywood as a minimum subfloor. my question is: I have 3/4" waferboard and on top of that i have 1/4 plywood, on top of the plywood i have linoleum flooring. Is it possible to tile over the current waferboard/plywood if i screw the current floor better and using ditra after removing the old linoleum stuff?????
 
D

DHTiling

i wanna tile my kitchen. I am installing 24x12 porcellan tile. everybody talks about 5/8 plywood as a minimum subfloor. my question is: I have 3/4" waferboard and on top of that i have 1/4 plywood, on top of the plywood i have linoleum flooring. Is it possible to tile over the current waferboard/plywood if i screw the current floor better and using ditra after removing the old linoleum stuff?????

You will need to check what your deflection in the subfloor is like first
...Ditra is not designed to strengthen a timber floor.......
 
S

slimhoare

Thanks Dave, My floor is pretty solid. There isn't any movement that I have noticed. My house is only 4 years old. They used the typical manufactured floor joists spaced 16" apart. If the floor is solid/no deflection, do some people tile over it using ditra? I've only helped my Dad tile his floor. His was a new house being built with the 5/8 tongue and groove ply. he still put ditra down. I'm just wondering what people do in my case. Let me know if you have any other helpful tips. take care
 
D

DHTiling

What tile are you installing.....the ditra will cope with lateral movement ( expansion of the timber floor) no problem.....
Now i believe with your terminolgy ( lol ) that your are usa based.....
so you have different standards with ditra to the uk.......

You will need to stick the ditra down with modified adhesive and then tile on top with standard set...but i do belive you can get Ditra set in the usa...if location is wrong then i will tell you the uk way...:grin:

As for the subfloor then you need to make sure it is well screwed down and no movement......always follow the adhesive manufactures guidelines of subfloor preperation for tiling ( i.e. priming )........
 
P

Paul72

I've just put my first quote in to the customer and hope to get the job, have just got my cards sorted and am just about to start advertising ect.
I'm starting part time as i'm still working in my 9 to 5 mon to fri job while i get going.
My question is how did you chaps make the transition form one job to tiling? and what do you do if you get a big job and only have weekends to do it? how did you cope?
I start to flap a bit when i think of it! any advice or help how you got going would be great. Thankyou all.
 
S

sstilingservice

Hi paul I just bit the bullet and quit my job to work for myself. Bit mad I know but sometimes these things have to be done!! Just had a busy couple of weeks and starting to build up a bit of advanced booking but wondered where people surgest the best place to advertise. I'm in the thomson local and on various websites on line and local paper.
 
B

Brindle

I've just put my first quote in to the customer and hope to get the job, have just got my cards sorted and am just about to start advertising ect.
I'm starting part time as i'm still working in my 9 to 5 mon to fri job while i get going.
My question is how did you chaps make the transition form one job to tiling? and what do you do if you get a big job and only have weekends to do it? how did you cope?
I start to flap a bit when i think of it! any advice or help how you got going would be great. Thankyou all.

I asked my employers to consider reducing my hours, which they did, down to 30, which gave me Thurs/ Fri/ Sat/ Sun each week to tile if necessary. then I reduced again down to 18 hours which at the moment is working out ok. I know what you mean about jobs though, most jobs take two days or more I find

Good luck
Bob
 
M

Mac

Hi Paul I just up and quit one day went and did a course the next and bought a van the next. Crazy i know but if you dont have the fallback of a 9 to 5 then i find your more driven to find business. If you want to book me you have to wait approx 6 weeks, single mindedness works.
I find the best place to find business is the small independant tile shops, do the old trick of bringing the coffee and gettig to know the retailer. If he recomends you as first choice then you will never be short of work.:yes:
 
Last edited by a moderator:
P

Paul72

wow i really do admire your balls to just quit your jobs and go! reducing hours is a good call. Something has to give as the wife also works one day of the weekend at moment too but as soon as i do a couple of jobs she can quit.
Thanks for advice I'll just get out there and find the work and if theres plenty on offer then i can sort shorter hours or leave my job.
Just want to do it right as i've a morgage,wife and two young boys to keep.
Please keep advice comming as its helping so much so thanks all!
 
S

stretche

Interesting to read your comments here. I'm planning to do 4 week course at PTS Harlow in the coming months. A big change coming out of the stressed City and doing something different. I have the same concern from good salary to jumping ship and nothing but I'm planning to build a financial cushion sufficient enough to be able to live for say 5 months. Hopefully that will be time to start and build up work/reputation. Any thoughts appreciated.

Also, can someone advise, do you generally find you have to take up exiting tiles and do prep work? I've recently done a short plastering course but as I get older wouldn't necessarily wish to do so much of lugging old tiles to the tip. Any comments appreciated.

I know this is a spacy question with too many variables, but how much might you expect to earn in year 1?
 
S

sstilingservice

Hi Stretch you are not allowed to carry customers waste, unless you have the right papers. I always remove old tiles that way you can see what the condition of the wall underneath is in.I think you have the right idea 5 mounth custion should serve you well. I must admit I had a little help with the old pennys. thinking of selling one of the kids now should get £10 :yes:
that should last another hour or so.
 
M

Mac

Hi Stretch, I never remove tiles always get customer to do it prier to starting the job I can always call back in to check walls and floor and see if they need any repair.
5 months sounds good will give you a great start no pressure.
Also you will pick up a lot in a year, you will find you will pick up pace, setting out the rooms will become second nature etc etc.
Enjoy and good luck :thumbsup:
 
C

cheekygeordie

hi guys
im about to start my first tiling job on my own kitchen floor.
i have already lifted the old tiles and revealed a concrete floor which has a slight run on it down towards the doorway
of my conservatory.will i need to level the floor with a compound or get away with it if i start in the doorway and gradually use less adhesive at the other end?
cheers :grin:
 

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